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HankLloydRight
No Roads
CHG-ON
Still in love after all these miles
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
Would this have enough power to supply Rick's front camera switch as well as a radar detector system? (I realize I should try to get the exact power requirements of both those units, and I will do that, but I just thought I'd post here to start.)
I recently had an issue that required the replacement of my wiring harness (at my expense) because of bad installation work by a third party installer. I'm about to have a different installer reinstall the front camera switch and the power connection to the radar system. The plan was to use "add a fuses" in the fuse box, so as not to tap the wiring harness, but if this could supply power for both, it seems like a better option.
Also does anyone sell the correct connector that mates with the connector shown in the picture, that our necessary wires could then be run into or something? If so, what would it be called?
Thanks.
Edit: I just found part of my answer. Apparently my radar detector system uses very little power, so this is looking promising:
Q: How many amps does the 8500ci in power consumption when fully used with laser shifters and without?
A: Less than 1A, about 700mA max. A 2A inline fuse is included with the system.
Edit 2: Looking more at the picture in the first post, does the open connector with the black and white wires coming out of it have to connect to the open connector where the red wire with power is? If so my question above about finding a connector doesn't make sense, I guess. If not, why is that other connector not connected to anything?
If those two connectors do have to be reconnected, how would our new wires be added? Through the back end of the connector that currently has the black and white wires?
I realize these questions sound ridiculous, but after being out close to $2000 because I trusted the last installer, I want to micro-manage the next install, and want to pre-purchase all the correct parts, and understand exactly what should be happening.
I recently had an issue that required the replacement of my wiring harness (at my expense) because of bad installation work by a third party installer. I'm about to have a different installer reinstall the front camera switch and the power connection to the radar system. The plan was to use "add a fuses" in the fuse box, so as not to tap the wiring harness, but if this could supply power for both, it seems like a better option.
Also does anyone sell the correct connector that mates with the connector shown in the picture, that our necessary wires could then be run into or something? If so, what would it be called?
Thanks.
Edit: I just found part of my answer. Apparently my radar detector system uses very little power, so this is looking promising:
Q: How many amps does the 8500ci in power consumption when fully used with laser shifters and without?
A: Less than 1A, about 700mA max. A 2A inline fuse is included with the system.
Edit 2: Looking more at the picture in the first post, does the open connector with the black and white wires coming out of it have to connect to the open connector where the red wire with power is? If so my question above about finding a connector doesn't make sense, I guess. If not, why is that other connector not connected to anything?
If those two connectors do have to be reconnected, how would our new wires be added? Through the back end of the connector that currently has the black and white wires?
I realize these questions sound ridiculous, but after being out close to $2000 because I trusted the last installer, I want to micro-manage the next install, and want to pre-purchase all the correct parts, and understand exactly what should be happening.
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Basically the only things you wouldn't be able to run from this spare 12V connection would be a large inverter or audio amp. Just about any other 12V accessory (radar, camera, etc) should work just fine, even if you have a few of them. 11A/12V is quite a bit for small devices. I'd be very surprised if you could find a radar or camera that used more than an amp or two.
Is there a constant on 12V power source in that same general area that can be tapped into?
I need a switched and constant source for the ThinkWare F750 dash cam I'm installing this weekend.
Worst case I can tap the 12V in the mic area, but I'd like all the power to come from the same general location if possible, since the the hardwire cable for the ThinkWare has the fuse at the far end.
I need a switched and constant source for the ThinkWare F750 dash cam I'm installing this weekend.
Worst case I can tap the 12V in the mic area, but I'd like all the power to come from the same general location if possible, since the the hardwire cable for the ThinkWare has the fuse at the far end.
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
Thanks very much!
Now I just need to figure out the best way to make the connection to that wire, or hope my installer knows.
I saw Fezzik's posts about using a wire from a computer's power supply. I swapped out a power supply on a desktop unit a couple of years ago, and thought I had kept the bad one somewhere, but a preliminary search at 3:00 AM did not turn it up. It may be one of the few things I actually threw away, now that I could use it!
Edit: Would the connector on the right in the photo below be what I'm looking for?
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HankLloydRight
No Roads
I use the OBDII connector in the driver's footwell for constant 12v to power my dashcam and front facing camera. No tapping/splicing required.
Why do you need switched for the dashcam? For parking mode detection? My LUKAS does that via motion detection and/or GPS, no switched wire needed.
I use the OBDII connector in the driver's footwell for constant 12v to power my dashcam and front facing camera. No tapping/splicing required.
Why do you need switched for the dashcam? For parking mode detection? My LUKAS does that via motion detection and/or GPS, no switched wire needed.
Thanks. I forgot about the OBDII connector. I can easily run a line from there to this connector and get everything hooked up with no splicing or cutting of any Tesla wiring.
Yes it's for parking mode. I wanted a dual camera system this time around, and I did look at the LUKAS LK-7950. It's a nice system, but prefer the design/form factor and some of the other features of the ThinkWare F750. In any case, the hardwire cable for the LK-7950 uses ACC power to detect parking mode as well, so I'd still have to solve the same issue.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Ahh, I have the LUKAS 5900 dual camera set up... only needs constant power.
It's a slightly older model, but I really like the form factor (no LCD screen). The resolution could be better though for reading license plates.
It's a slightly older model, but I really like the form factor (no LCD screen). The resolution could be better though for reading license plates.
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
Thanks, Fezzik.
Is the connector on the right in post 27 the correct one to match up with what's already there? I want to try to have all the parts my installer might need to do the job correctly.
Thanks.
The connector is quite large, around 45mm long:
The male is 18 x 19mm and recognized by the lip on the side and top.
The female have lock integrated in the housing.
The pins is square.
Have not been able to locate it at Mouser, have not given up quite yet. :-(
The male is 18 x 19mm and recognized by the lip on the side and top.
The female have lock integrated in the housing.
The pins is square.
Have not been able to locate it at Mouser, have not given up quite yet. :-(
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the response.
Is the connection between the male and female made to begin with? If so, is there some way to add a wire to the female connector? (That is the female connector in your left hand, with the white and black wires coming out of it, right?
Is the issue that if you don't find a connector, there's no way to add a wire, but if you do find a connector then you wind up disconnecting the pictured connector and replacing it with the new one, in which you can add a wire, because once the connector is connected --THEN-- there is no way to add an additional wire?
Sorry for the ridiculously uneducated questions, but this is not my area of expertise (obviously) but I'm trying to know enough about this to not let my car get screwed up again!
Thanks!
I don't understand why Tesla made it such an odd connector, since they put it there to help installers add accessories: "The purpose of this power circuit is to provide a switched power source, reducing the risk of vehicle damage due to improperly installed third-party equipment."
I'm going tottery to pop mine open today just to see what up in my specific car (August build). I can't fully add the dashcam this weekend (just got the tint done yesterday and it needs a few days to fully dry) but I'd like to get a head start on the wiring.
I'm going tottery to pop mine open today just to see what up in my specific car (August build). I can't fully add the dashcam this weekend (just got the tint done yesterday and it needs a few days to fully dry) but I'd like to get a head start on the wiring.
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
This post has good info about the constant 12v connector in newer VINs #32
This one has info on the switched power in the mirror: Rear view mirror wiring diagram
You can add a pin to the female side and hook you up to the connector.
Then need a power theefe plug to connect the black. (earth)
I will get both male and female, make a T connector.
Unplug the plug and connect my plugg between? then I have a plug and play solution for 11A power.
Have already done the same for Trunk and Frunk light.
I hate to use power thief on any cables.
Only solution I like is one thst can be disconected with no trace or damage to any cables.
I guess it is a common connector, it is just so many to look through.
Then need a power theefe plug to connect the black. (earth)
I will get both male and female, make a T connector.
Unplug the plug and connect my plugg between? then I have a plug and play solution for 11A power.
Have already done the same for Trunk and Frunk light.
I hate to use power thief on any cables.
Only solution I like is one thst can be disconected with no trace or damage to any cables.
I guess it is a common connector, it is just so many to look through.
Andyw2100
Well-Known Member
I appreciate the response, but I am still confused.
If I want my installer to be able to get 12V power from this location, what parts would we need?
I tried to search for "Power Thief" but only found the pictures below, and I don't understand how that would apply in this case, since there is just one male connector that we need a female connector for.
Thanks!
