I opened up my console tonight and found the connector. Took some pictures of the female half of the plug and it looks like the part number is PBT-GF15 which is listed as a pretty common automotive connector plug. The closest part I can find to the one in our cars is a TE Connectivity 184392-1 (although there are several close matches with other 2X2 layouts). It looks like you can add a female receptacle to the existing plug to mate with the existing unused male pin and the part number for that receptacle might be 184030-3 (although I'm not sure on the difference between the three models that are listed as matches for the receptacle). Anyone have any experience with these plugs to find the matching part?
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Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Periokid, I agree with you. I opened up the side of my console this afternoon. '17 90D, and the connector from the picture is no where to be found. I climbed in and look all around. Missing on newest models and year.
I finally tapped the fuse box at the passenger's right foot area. Upper left fuse in the box is for the passenger seat motor. Works great for constant power.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Is this then switched power? I mean if the center console is not up then you get no power at this terminal? Sounds good if so.
Thanks.
Constant power, not switched. But that was by choice on my fuse selection. There should be a switched fuse in that box somewhere.
So, after some digging around I found that Ford uses the same connector in the current Explorer. Ford calls it a WPT-1260 (see it in the catalog https://www.fordparts.com/FileUploads/CMSFiles/18376 Pigtail Book 2016.pdf) but, fortunately the Ford 1.5mm female pins from many different parts fit our connector too. I just added a wire to the spare circuit in this connector by taking a female pin out of a Ford socket and inserting it into the empty space in the Tesla socket. Search YouTube for videos on how to re-pin a connector and it shows how to unlock the pins and remove or insert new pins.
Here's a picture of the Ford part that I used to supply a wire to add to the Tesla connector and a picture of the wire (red/green) installed in the Tesla connector.
FlatSix911
Porsche 918 Hybrid
Trebek1762
Let's play jeopardy
My fuse 202 has a 5A fuse, not 15A per the spec sheet. i can confirm it is 12V switched, and does not supply the USB in the center console on my 2018 S75D.
it's what I'm planning on tapping for my valentine one radar detector.
it's what I'm planning on tapping for my valentine one radar detector.
jordanthompson
2018 P100D Model X
I'm trying to find switched 12v power in my 2018 model x. Can you please PM me the images as well
Unfortunately, I don't have the fuse information for that model. My apologies.
I know I'm resurrecting an old thread, but I figured I'd post on the details of the connector and how I tapped into it. It took some research to find the details, so it probably would save people some effort if they want to do it the way I did it. I wanted to keep the Tesla harness unmodified, which meant making a custom harness that gave me the 12V and ground separated. I have a 2016 Model S Pre-facelift, so this is what worked for me.
The connector is a Male Yazaki Yesc Kaizen Unsealed 2.8mm 4 pole: 7282-6446-40
The female end is 7283-6446-40.
Also need at least 3 of each of these terminals when using 18AWG wire, assuming you want to pass the 12V though still.
7114-4111-02
7116-4111-02
The Red/White wire is 12V. Ground is the Black wire. I basically made a passthrough harness, then tapped into the 12V and the ground of the passthrough. I used buttsplices since that's what I had on hand. I didn't have their actual crimping tool for the terminals, and had to resort to using two separate manual crimp tools I found that were close enough sizes, one for the wire and one for the insulation grip.
I'll be honest and admit this is probably overkill and most people are better off just using a positap to get what they need. The connector parts weren't easy to source since nobody uses this particular one anymore in current car production. I actually have some leftover parts, enough to make another 1, maybe 2 if I'm careful.
The connector is a Male Yazaki Yesc Kaizen Unsealed 2.8mm 4 pole: 7282-6446-40
The female end is 7283-6446-40.
Also need at least 3 of each of these terminals when using 18AWG wire, assuming you want to pass the 12V though still.
7114-4111-02
7116-4111-02
The Red/White wire is 12V. Ground is the Black wire. I basically made a passthrough harness, then tapped into the 12V and the ground of the passthrough. I used buttsplices since that's what I had on hand. I didn't have their actual crimping tool for the terminals, and had to resort to using two separate manual crimp tools I found that were close enough sizes, one for the wire and one for the insulation grip.
I'll be honest and admit this is probably overkill and most people are better off just using a positap to get what they need. The connector parts weren't easy to source since nobody uses this particular one anymore in current car production. I actually have some leftover parts, enough to make another 1, maybe 2 if I'm careful.
Akikiki
A'-Lo-HA ! y'all
Impressive. I spent some serious time looking for that connector and never found it. Yes, posi-tap is easy. My OCB, shakes its finger with "tsk-tsk" at me. Nicely done. I was one of the first to find the S's mate to the persistent connection connection in the speaker grille (and posted it all over TMC). But that was long ago.
