Tesla Model S Onboard Master Charger Gen 2 (10 kW) Internal Fuse Fix??

[WILLIAMCAM77]

Hello guys, this is my first post... About a month ago my 2014 MS 85 Rwd started charging slow at home but not at the supercharger. 16/32amp with the HPWC Gen 3. Did a lot of research online and saw that people can replace the internal fuses (Ferraz Shawmut 50A). Only difference is that as soon as I lifted my rear seat I did not have the same charger that everyone else has! Tesla quoted me $2500 to fix it but I would rather do the fix myself, that is way too much money! Anyone have any idea where the location of the 50A fuses are on this type of charger? Thanks

 

[Seagee]

Funny, I literally just posted this same question in the thread about the Gen 1 charger fuse replacement.

Would love to do this repair myself as well if possible.

 

[Ailo]

Did somebody get a feedback on repairing the Gen 2 charger fuse?

 

[tj1772]

Is the fuse for Gen 2 the same as Gen 1. Mine is Gen 2 and my master charger is out according to Tesla.

Thanks

 

[PWlakewood]

Did you guys watch the YouTube video for the gen 1 fuse replacement? Since the fuse is on the side of the gen 1 maybe the fuse is in the same place roughly on gen 2.

 

[PWlakewood]

Another option would be to remove the faulty onboard charger and send it to electrified garage or another shop and have them test/repair it.

 

[diddydee]

any update here

 

[omega]

Can anyone please provide an update on the type of fuses required and model for the Gen 2 onboard charger? Thanks!

 

[omega]

I will do my due diligence and post my findings here since I was not able to find this info anywhere on the Internet.
There was a guy on youtube posting how to change fuses in onboard charger gen1, and said gen 2 was slightly different. This statement is incorrect!
They made the onboard charger gen 2 unserviceable, it is impossible to get to the fuses w/o breaking the charger components (the boards are all glued inside). Moreover the fuses (different than gen1) are soldered on the board!
So if the charger has issues like one of the phases in fault mode instead of enabled (in the case of phase 1, would result in the impossibility to charge from one phase like 110v or 220v via mobile connector) the only way to correct is by replacing the charger.

 

[Jamie Uniacke]

I had the same issue with a faulty phase in my master charger. I ended up getting a getting a used RH Gen 2 OBC for 500 EUR and replaced it following the service manual and guide in this post "Replacing Onboard Charger Gen3 2017 MS75D...My Experience (With Photos)"
Wasn't too difficult and quickly saves you 2000 EUR/USD, just be sure to have a 12v battery charger on hand for the installation of the software update.

 

[omega]

I had the same issue with a faulty phase in my master charger. I ended up getting a getting a used RH Gen 2 OBC for 500 EUR and replaced it following the service manual and guide in this post "Replacing Onboard Charger Gen3 2017 MS75D...My Experience (With Photos)"
Wasn't too difficult and quickly saves you 2000 EUR/USD, just be sure to have a 12v battery charger on hand for the installation of the software update.

The issue with this solution is you don’t know how long it’s going to last. Tesla charges more but that comes with warranty…Plus you need to put the car in factory mode (tools cost $$) program its replacement etc etc

 

[Bohjaaa]

I had the same issue with a faulty phase in my master charger. I ended up getting a getting a used RH Gen 2 OBC for 500 EUR and replaced it following the service manual and guide in this post "Replacing Onboard Charger Gen3 2017 MS75D...My Experience (With Photos)"
Wasn't too difficult and quickly saves you 2000 EUR/USD, just be sure to have a 12v battery charger on hand for the installation of the software update.

I am also in the need to replace our master charger gen2 and we have a Europe 2013 model S.
Looking at the charger we need "ASY,GEN2 CHRGR,MDLS (1014963-00-L)" it does not have orange HV cables connected to.
Only a 12 pin, a 10 pin and 2x flat 6pin connectors.
Is that similair as for your gen 2 OBC? Does that mean, looking at

dbldwn02, detaild instruction post regarding his gen3 OBC, we dont need to disconnect any orange HV cables, also not from the HV Junction box?​

 

[dbldwn02]

The issue with this solution is you don’t know how long it’s going to last. Tesla charges more but that comes with warranty…Plus you need to put the car in factory mode (tools cost $$) program its replacement etc etc

True, but I can replace my charger 10 times for the price of one Tesla charger.

Based on PMs I'm getting from my DIY post, it looks like more of these issues are starting to pop up with Gen3 chargers over the summer. Might be heat related??