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Tesla or other wall charger
- Thread starter Salem801
- Start date
ATPMSD
Active Member
If you own a Tesla the best option is the Tesla Wall Connector (WC), note it is not called a charger, BTW. In fact with the rest of the world adopting Tesla’s NACS plug you can argue it is best option overall. The WC is WiFI enabled and Tesla offers over the air updates. One of the more recent updates enabled wireless power sharing (for free) when multiple WCs are installed.
And if you are trying to save a few bucks, why? You just spent $50K+ on your car so trying to save a coupe of hundred does not make a lot of sense.
I’ll let those who have opted for solutions speak too the value of those solutions.
This next comment is off topic: Once you decide on a solution make sure you understand how it needs to be installed, especially as to wiring if you plan to run the WC on a 60-amp circuit (48-amp charging rate). Do NOT rely on the electrician as too many of them do not know how to do it properly. Do your homework!
In any case, welcome to Tesla and enjoy your car!
And if you are trying to save a few bucks, why? You just spent $50K+ on your car so trying to save a coupe of hundred does not make a lot of sense.
I’ll let those who have opted for solutions speak too the value of those solutions.
This next comment is off topic: Once you decide on a solution make sure you understand how it needs to be installed, especially as to wiring if you plan to run the WC on a 60-amp circuit (48-amp charging rate). Do NOT rely on the electrician as too many of them do not know how to do it properly. Do your homework!
In any case, welcome to Tesla and enjoy your car!
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Tesla's wall connector ("charger") is reasonably priced. Some would say it's the lowest priced charger. And it's reliable. I'd get the Tesla one.
Also, don’t let the Electrician put the TWC on a GFCI breaker. Mine did even after I asked him about it and he had to come back and change it to a regular breaker (worked first day but then started tripping). Manual says the TWC has built it GFCI and not it put on an GFCI breaker.
The only functionality I can think of that you wouldn't see on other "chargers" is that with the wall connector you can restrict use to only Tesla cars, or to only certain Tesla cars. If the wall connector is going to be outside then that's useful, if it's going to be in your garage then it probably doesn't matter.
However, it's the best long term option, since most EV companies are adopting the Tesla connector (NACS), and also the best short term option as you're getting a Model 3. It's also priced better than a lot of others.
However, it's the best long term option, since most EV companies are adopting the Tesla connector (NACS), and also the best short term option as you're getting a Model 3. It's also priced better than a lot of others.
fholbert
Active Member
I would agree. I bought one in April after shopping other brands and was surprised at how reasonable it was.
fholbert
Active Member
I've never understood what a WiFi enabled charger does?
If I'm not mistaken the car controls charging, reports on electricity used, lets you know when charging starts and stops. Why the heck does the charger need WIFI?
For Firmware updates (basically to add functionality "later").
When the Gen 3 wall connectors were introduced, they didnt even support power sharing, which was an existing feature of the gen 2 units. They added it "later" (much later actually).
"Need"? very debatable, I agree. I have (2) Gen 2 wall connectors in a power sharing setup, and see no real reason to change them (and I am a person who tends to really suffer from FOMO (fear of missing out) on device features.
I have Home Assistant setup to monitor and graph the usage of my wall connector. Sure your car can log the charging statistics too, but if you have multiple cars, especially multiple cars on different Tesla accounts, then it's easier to have it all in one place.
It could be especially useful for companies who let their employees charge at work, IIRC public businesses can even set them up to require payment, if accepted into the program for that.
As @jjrandorin pointed out, they've already used the firmware update functionality to add features, hopefully they add more in the future. Two things I saw mentioned/speculated elsewhere are 1. Make it talk to your solar gateway and adjust the amps to match the power generation stats. 2. Allow you to set schedules so that it only allows charging during certain hours, businesses might like that.
Im interested to find out if this is a Gen 3 wall connector feature or not, whenever I finally get all the appropriate firmware versions on everything (car, tesla energy gateway, app).
Is there some data somewhere (from Tesla or vehicle teardowns) that says the cybertruck will come with 80amp charging capability?
If there isnt anything definitive said so far, I believe what people should "expect" is that 48amp charging is the fastest that tesla is going to offer on L2 charging, period, at least in the US. Anything above 60amp charging requires extra disconnects.
Also, allocating 1/2 of a 200 amp service connection for vehicle charging, is an issue for almost everyone who has that type of service (which is likely why tesla stopped offering vehicles with dual 40amp chargers years ago).
It depends on your use case. In our underground condo parking space my 'charging station' is limited to 110V/8a. I can leave the charger setup however, and I bought a low cost L1 EVSE and another J1772->Tesla adapter, since anything else would just be a waste of money.
In our SE Arizona winter home, our garage subpanel is fed by a 50amp breaker and the subpanel feeds 120v outlets with a 20amp breaker and 12-2 wire, and I initially changed a NEMA 5-15 outlet to a NEMA 5-20 and used another low cost L1/L2 EVSE to charge at 16amp/120v. I then added a dedicated 20amp 240v breaker and a NEMA 6-20 outlet and my EVSE now supplies 240v/16a to the car. Total cost of this upgrade was less than $100. I could have used a Tesla Mobile Connector instead for another 100 bucks or so, but I got a good price on the J1772 L1/L2 in Canada and brought it down with me. Anyways, I am very happy with the 240v/16a charging station. There's no way that I was willing to spend thousands installing a 40 or 50amp dedicated L2 charging connection, when a NEMA 6-20 outlet with the needed 12-2 wire and breaker was so inexpensive.
If you ordered the M3 RWD you're limited to 240v 32amp AC charging anyways.
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I started out with a J1772 EVSE and then changed to the Tesla EVSE (Gen 2) a few years ago. As others have noted, the Tesla EVSE (Gen 3) is a tremendous value compared to comparably spec'd J1772 EVSEs.
One more thing I didn't see mentioned above--if you use the J1772 EVSE you will have to open the charge port on your car manually. With the Tesla EVSE the charging port on your car will open when you click the button on the handle. Minor but meaningful feature.
One more thing I didn't see mentioned above--if you use the J1772 EVSE you will have to open the charge port on your car manually. With the Tesla EVSE the charging port on your car will open when you click the button on the handle. Minor but meaningful feature.
I wanted the wall charger but the circuit breaker was too far and hard to reach, but a dryer outlet was on the other side of the wall.
1) TURN OFF BREAKER to dryer outlet. I then used the green splitter to share the outlet.
2) I bought an extension cord and cut off the female connector - I wanted a factory molded male end.
3) I exposed the wire on the cut side to the length specified in the wall adapter. Even though the cord is outdoor rated, I ran it through a piece of conduit to protect it from elements and weed wackers.
4) Inside the exposed wires were tightened down using included hex bit.
5) Put on the cover and turned the breaker on.
6) Follow instructions to configure the charger to 30 AMP (24 AMP usable)
It is critical to ensure that the charger will not use more than 30/24 AMP because that is all the outlet and wire is rated for. Any more will be a fire hazard or will melt things.
Once prepped, it should take no more than 30 minutes to install.
Most people will not drive enough to justify the full 60 AMP line, unless it is close to your breaker box.
This is the preferred method because the utility will only give lower rates if they can control the charge times. In my area they give .06 cents per KWH which is insanely cheap, but they don't turn it on until late at night.
Your charger is connected to evPulse - Sign in using your credentials and your utility can control charging and know how much is used so you can get the cheap rate. The mobile charger will not work with ev pulse so you cannot get the lower rate.
Your rates will vary by region.
A few comments:
1) The 30AMP circuit is derated to 24AMPS as a 20% safety margin. This is an industry standard for safety. Safety standards are paid for dearly with blood - don't violate them.
2) Don't use the dryer at the same time you charge. If charging late at night, this should not be an issue unless you use the dryer at night. If you have room mates or forget, there are devices that can switch back and forth such as: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QPMHGX1 but it is extra expense, of course the green cable would not be needed. DO NOT try to plug and unplug cords instead of a splitter because the wall charger needs to be plugged in all the time and the outlets are not made for frequent insertion and removal. The springs and connectors will wear out causing a poor connection. A poor connection reduces contact area of the plug which will cause it to heat up - think of electricity like water being pushed through a compressed hose versus a nice open hose.
3) The Wall Charger needs a WIFI signal if that wasnt clear from my instructions.
4) A 24 AMP circuit will yield about 22 MPH charge, so if your commute is within 22 x (number of hours charging) you will have no problem with the reduced number of AMPS.
I am NOT an electrician, but my father is and checked over my setup and said it was sound for our area. As long as no house wiring is changed, you should not need a permit.
1) The 30AMP circuit is derated to 24AMPS as a 20% safety margin. This is an industry standard for safety. Safety standards are paid for dearly with blood - don't violate them.
2) Don't use the dryer at the same time you charge. If charging late at night, this should not be an issue unless you use the dryer at night. If you have room mates or forget, there are devices that can switch back and forth such as: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09QPMHGX1 but it is extra expense, of course the green cable would not be needed. DO NOT try to plug and unplug cords instead of a splitter because the wall charger needs to be plugged in all the time and the outlets are not made for frequent insertion and removal. The springs and connectors will wear out causing a poor connection. A poor connection reduces contact area of the plug which will cause it to heat up - think of electricity like water being pushed through a compressed hose versus a nice open hose.
3) The Wall Charger needs a WIFI signal if that wasnt clear from my instructions.
4) A 24 AMP circuit will yield about 22 MPH charge, so if your commute is within 22 x (number of hours charging) you will have no problem with the reduced number of AMPS.
I am NOT an electrician, but my father is and checked over my setup and said it was sound for our area. As long as no house wiring is changed, you should not need a permit.
Confirm that the dryer circuit is to code as the 10/30R outlet is a 30AMP max output, so that should be the circuit breaker size. It will overheat if the circuit breaker were not sized properly. I stressed that the wall charger to be set to 30/24AMP setting to ensure too much current is not drawn. The car/app also has a setting to limit charging at the home location to 24 AMP as highlighted in the App below for "Sir Watts-a-Lot", a tongue in cheek reference to Sir Lancelot in MP's Quest For the Holy Grail.
davewill
Active Member
Running an appliance/extension cord through a wall breaks code. Plugging both devices into the single circuit also leaves people open to overloading the circuit. Personally, I don't care that you did this, but to recommend it publicly in the forum as a general solution is reckless.
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