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Another difference between what Tesla is doing with the foundation model is while Tesla is charging a premium, they will quickly sell them all. Legacy dealers get one of a hard to get model, slaps the "market adjustment" markup on the sticker and that vehicle can sit on the lot for weeks or months trying to connect with someone willing to pay.
At a dealership, a market adjustment is on top of "dealer additions". The Tesla $20K includes extras that at least half would likely purchase anyway. If you add up the value of what's included, it's almost all of what might be termed "dealer additions", many of which are useful unlike pin striping (a favourite dealer add-on). So to equate Tesla's $20K premium with "market adjustment" is rather disingenuous.
It could just be "confirmation bias", I was influenced by the commentators, who like me are expecting to see something that confirms their assumptions,.
I did think the small number of wires in that area was unsurprising, I don't know what they expected to see.
Overall the video was well put together with some intelligent comments, but no one gets everything right.
Understandable.
For reference, here is the S harness drawing in that area:
Note the left side B pillar travels through 4 harness connectors to get to the FSD computer. They could remove a set by combining harnesses at the yellow circle.
That is likely a point of commonality between X and S, so they can reuse some instrument panel parts. Cybertruck, having a unique dash and common interior could combine for BOM savings (assuming it doesn't hurt manufacturability)
Another difference between what Tesla is doing with the foundation model is while Tesla is charging a premium, they will quickly sell them all. Legacy dealers get one of a hard to get model, slaps the "market adjustment" markup on the sticker and that vehicle can sit on the lot for weeks or months trying to connect with someone willing to pay.
The premium price includes options that would probably add more to the initial price so this is not a "pinstriping, door edge guards and undercoating" dealer ripoff. What Tesla is getting are guinea pigs who will be finding problems with the initial allotment. I did that with my Signature X with things like door sensors falling down inside the doors because of extended exposure to cold and door latches that stopped latching the door close. And the $132,500 I paid for that privilege, the value tanked when 5 months later Tesla came out with HW1 cars. But I love my Sig X and it will be tough to see it go. But I don't want to be one of the first 1000 or so CT Foundation owners. Well unless they contact me of course.
Most people don't check their vehicles tire air pressure regularly. This wastes fuel.
Department of Transportation figures show that under-inflated tires waste about 5 million gallons of gas every day in the United States.
A tire that is 20 percent underinflated can increase a vehicle’s fuel consumption by 10 percent because an underinflated tire creates more resistance.
Nitrogen molecules are larger and slower moving than those of compressed air. Because of this, nitrogen won't seep out of your tires as quickly as air will, helping to maintain proper pressure for a longer period of time.
I am not sure, if this could be a reason, but: In Europe you can check and adjust your tire pressure at any gas station for free. There are several small devices at every station you can pick up easily and got to you car. So you can conveniently check the tire pressure while charging/fueling up. In USA you have to pay for it and move your car…
I am not sure, if this could be a reason, but: In Europe you can check and adjust your tire pressure at any gas station for free. There are several small devices at every station you can pick up easily and got to you car. So you can conveniently check the tire pressure while charging/fueling up. In USA you have to pay for it and move your car…
Unless the gas station is really close to where you live, when filling the tires at the gas station they will be warm and the pressure will not be correct. Pressure adjustment should always been done cold, first thing in the morning before you have driven one mile slowly.
Unless the gas station is really close to where you live, when filling the tires at the gas station they will be warm and the pressure will not be correct. Pressure adjustment should always been done cold, first thing in the morning before you have driven one mile slowly.
My recommendation is to fill to sidewall max the day before and let air out to the desired pressure the day you have access to the tires when cold.
Also instead of driving to somewhere else to pump up you can get a USB chargeable battery powered pump like this one Amazon.com so that you can pump it up on the spot. Even then I pump them higher than needed because you lose uneven amounts when pulling the pump off and will need to let air out of one or more tires to equalize.
Pro: I don't have to deal with a cord to the 12v socket
Pro: It has an easy to read screen and shuts off at the set PSI
Pro: the snap on head will work on a tire/valve that has stripped threads
Con: the air hose is shorter than ideal, if it was 3" longer it'd be great, 6" longer would be perfect.
Con: the snap on head doesn't hold a perfect seal at high pressures and lets out air putting it on and taking it off.
Overall it does what I want it to do and does it well.
Take a box or stool or most any random stable object and lay it next to the tire and the short hose is not an issue.
Put a little more air in the tire than you need, let the tire sit for a few hours and if needed even the tires out by letting out air from the tire with the highest pressure.
My cars TPMS only shows 1/4 PSI increments so if I'm less than 1/2 a PSI difference between the lowest and highest tire I consider it good enough and then end up getting it closer to 1/4 PSI because I can. I wouldn't bother to get it that close if I didn't have the TPMS to make it easy to tell.
My recommendation is to fill to sidewall max the day before and let air out to the desired pressure the day you have access to the tires when cold.
Also instead of driving to somewhere else to pump up you can get a USB chargeable battery powered pump like this one Amazon.com so that you can pump it up on the spot. Even then I pump them higher than needed because you lose uneven amounts when pulling the pump off and will need to let air out of one or more tires to equalize.
Pro: I don't have to deal with a cord to the 12v socket
Pro: It has an easy to read screen and shuts off at the set PSI
Pro: the snap on head will work on a tire/valve that has stripped threads
Con: the air hose is shorter than ideal, if it was 3" longer it'd be great, 6" longer would be perfect.
Con: the snap on head doesn't hold a perfect seal at high pressures and lets out air putting it on and taking it off.
Overall it does what I want it to do and does it well.
Take a box or stool or most any random stable object and lay it next to the tire and the short hose is not an issue.
Put a little more air in the tire than you need, let the tire sit for a few hours and if needed even the tires out by letting out air from the tire with the highest pressure.
My cars TPMS only shows 1/4 PSI increments so if I'm less than 1/2 a PSI difference between the lowest and highest tire I consider it good enough and then end up getting it closer to 1/4 PSI because I can. I wouldn't bother to get it that close if I didn't have the TPMS to make it easy to tell.
I wonder if compressed air could provide a solution to the CyberTruck rear bumper camera issue; discussion on another thread tells me that winter conditions will quickly muck up the rear camera.
Perhaps having a method to direct the existing airstream (at speed) to the camera lens to keep salt/sand spray from obscuring the lens.
I am not sure, if this could be a reason, but: In Europe you can check and adjust your tire pressure at any gas station for free. There are several small devices at every station you can pick up easily and got to you car. So you can conveniently check the tire pressure while charging/fueling up. In USA you have to pay for it and move your car…
Ah, no, not true everywhere but perhaps mostly true?
This September, in France, I was charged 2 euro for air. Small roadside station out in the country, happy to give them my money for the convenience.
Unless the gas station is really close to where you live, when filling the tires at the gas station they will be warm and the pressure will not be correct. Pressure adjustment should always been done cold, first thing in the morning before you have driven one mile slowly.
That’s right, therefore I check the tire pressure on the app or on the screen, when leaving home,
and again, when I am at the gas station, so I can calculate the difference…
Nitrogen filled tires are very close to a scam. Dry air is no different. If nitrogen inflation is free it does no harm, but don't think that it makes any difference.
Things may have changed, but way back when…the oxygen in a sample of standard atmosphere pumped into a tire can eventually leach through rubber.
It is one reason why aircraft tires (at least ones I was familiar with) are filled with only nitrogen; the pressure stays the same after pumping them up and pure nitrogen creates a more stable tire under conditions experienced in the aviation world.
Originally IIRC, the aircraft tires tended towards nitrogen because of fire and explosion risks due to the interactions of moist air volumetric and pressure changes, which nitrogen largely removes. There was also prevalent use of high-magnesium content in wheels which added to corrosion risk and potential failures from overheated air-filled tires.
Whether those things made material differences can generate arguments, but nitrogen is still used today even for small general aviation aircraft. All my cars used it too, back when I had aircraft. In the days of leaky tires, nitrogen did tend to escape lesss slowly than does typically humid compressed air. Obviously it really does not matter much anymore and most of the scams probably don't really use nitrogen anyway.,
Were I to sue a Cybertruck for travel in summertime hot deseet climes, I'd still opt for nitrogen. Expansion rates alone make that a reasonable choice, mostly because the air provided is rarely dry, worsening that expansion issue.
