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Tired of the terrible range

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There IS an adjustment point on the rears of the S and X - it looks like it isn't, but it is the body-end of the control arms. The washer on the head of the bolt is offset, this is an "eccentric" adjustment and the hole underneath it is larger to allow the bolt to move and change the geometry. The problem is there is nowhere near the amount of range that you need.

As for being denied warranty work - they can't, the Magnuson-Moss warranty act says that if any manufacturer wants to deny a warranty because of the customer using aftermarket components, they have to PROVE that the aftermarket component caused the issue.

I'm not a salesman for N2itive or Macsboost, I'm just a happy customer of both (I bought the Macsboost myself for my S, the previous owner bought the N2itive for the X) and both are VERY well designed and built - better than the stamped aluminum arms they replaced!
 
are they ok lifting? DT scared me when they used scissor lifts on my 3 and not jacks like I asked.

I like the fact that the 3 warns you if the tires are wearing uneven . Does the X do that?


I like the lifetime price . Do you have to do it often though?
My Firestone has the latest alignment equipment, and the vehicle is driven up on a flat lift. It's not "lifted" by the frame at all. For a proper alignment you need the weight of the vehicle on the wheels/tires.

My pre-refresh X does not warn of tires wearing unevenly to my knowledge. I plan on re-aligning every 6-7k miles just to make sure my tires wear correctly and I get the most milage out of them. There are many posts on the forum about people getting bad range (high wh/mi), and an alignment fixed the issue. Even people picking up new vehicles have taken them in for an alignment and found it was off.
 
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As for being denied warranty work - they can't, the Magnuson-Moss warranty act says that if any manufacturer wants to deny a warranty because of the customer using aftermarket components, they have to PROVE that the aftermarket component caused the issue.
That may be true, but Ive read about of PLENTY of people here on the forum being denied warranty work simply because there were aftermarket suspension parts on their vehicle. You will have to jump through a lot of hoops to get them to actually cover the issue if it's denied.
 
Sounds normal to me. I have 12,000 miles on my 2022 model x plaid and my life time efficiency is 345wh per mile On the stock 20inch wheels in sunny Southern California. The older models x is suppose to be less efficient so I would think 360+ wh per mile is normal.
 
Like you, we've been noticing a massive range drop in our 2016 90D Model X. We did some manual calculations.

To drive 14 miles this weekend, our X dropped in range from 125 miles to 104... (A range drop of 21 miles to only go 14 miles.) Not on freeways, flat FL roads, no crazy driving, not towing, they recently did an alignment, nothing attached to the outside of the X, etc. We had been running calculations on it. It's taking that percentage consistently. (My husband actually guessed how much we would have when we got home from the charger, and he nailed it... That's how consistent the #s are...)

Based on the charge we left our home with, our weekend outing on Sunday should have had us stopping one time to recharge to make it back home. We had to stop a total of 4 times. The last leg was the one we ran the test on....

Now, the question is HOW do we get Tesla to agree that the HV has issues. And how the heck do you contact them about warrantee issues....
 
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Reactions: geordi
If you figure that out, let me know.

I switched down to a set of 19" wheels and NOT Tesla tires (Michelin Crossclimate2) from my S just before I left on this road trip. Tires are 235mm wide and the same all around. This X should already have a great alignment, but I'm probably going to pay someone to do it again so I KNOW what the numbers are - it already has N2itive arms.

I have an aluminum open trailer behind me with some tools on it - very much in the wind shadow behind the X and not very heavy. Keeping the speed moderate at 70-75, I have been running around 420-450 watt-hours per mile. Previous to this with the 20" rims and treadwear 220 tires, and an EMPTY 4x8 open trailer, I was running around 580-620.

The battery status in Tessie has NOT MOVED in over 6k miles since I bought the car, yet the range is (lol) 225 miles at a full charge, and "real world" of 180 miles... I don't believe that is even accurate. The last time I charged was 103 miles ago, it says I got 481 wh/mi, and I went from 83% to 9%. This is nuts.