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I know someone that owned an Electric Blue 1.5 and Electric Blue 2.5. They swapped the seats because the older seats had less stuffing, so he sat lower in the car and didn't have his head against the headliner. (In other words, he preferred the original seats...)
was #1349 one of that pair?
2011 Used Tesla Roadster Sport. Blue. Includes both hard and soft top.Seats are Roadster 1.5 vintage. 47,500-miles. $72,000. Los Altos, California
i'm short enough (5' 7") that either seat design works for me . . . though i do have to say, while i like the 2.5 seats better, both aren't very good for me -- my friend's Miata provides better lateral support from the bolsters when taking a curve at speed.
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1349 is well past the switchover to 2.5 so, like your car, something non-standard happened -- either at the factory or after.
have you gotten your spedometer situation sorted?
Indeed. That is the one to which I had referred.
Its' 1.5 sister car is out there with 2.5 Roadster sport seats...
I bought a new one from Tesla in the end. The old one was going to be very difficult to get the needles off without damage in order to change the face plate.
I think less cars sold in the UK than anticipated so some UK designated cars found their ways to Asia in late 2011 / early 2012.
eHorses
Member
I have the same problem with the coolant pump running 24/7 during summer months in FL. But I’m hesitant to inhibit the APS and/or pull the service disconnect plug with fear of creating more problems with 12v charging and damage to plug from repeat disconnecting.
Is this in my head or are my concerns legitimate?
Inhibiting APS on a regular basis isn't a good idea, and the main disconnect is far too easy to break. Neither are intended for frequent use. Having the main disconnect contacts come loose (due to wear) while driving would be, um, "bad".
The circulation pump is on because the car needs to have the coolant circulate to help preserve the battery cells, not because it's stuck. Best to actively cool the battery (see the link above), and let it manage the rest on its own.
The circulation pump is on because the car needs to have the coolant circulate to help preserve the battery cells, not because it's stuck. Best to actively cool the battery (see the link above), and let it manage the rest on its own.
Have you considered a split A/C system? If you have a garage it works great. Here in Tucson so far this year we have had above normal temps as high as 113 and typically 106-108 since 1st of May
. I set my split system in the garage at 83 and #763 is happy. System ran me a couple of years ago about $2,700.00 ( for a 1.5 ton unit) for a 3 car garage.Have you considered a split A/C system? If you have a garage it works great. Here in Tucson so far this year we have had above normal temps as high as 113 and typically 106-108 since 1st of May
The absolute best advice I can give anyone that lives in a warm climate, is to get a hybrid heat pump hot water heater and leave it ducted to inside the garage. Not only does it barely use electricity, the byproduct is a cold garage.
IslandRoadster
Former Owner of #609
//eyeroll//
Yeah... that makes total sense.
Let me give up paradise for some random place with a cooler climate so we can drive a car that's not supported and actively disassembled by it's manufacturer. Solid financial tip!
dhrivnak
Active Member
So our solution to climate change is more energy that adds to the problem?Have you considered a split A/C system? If you have a garage it works great. Here in Tucson so far this year we have had above normal temps as high as 113 and typically 106-108 since 1st of May
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