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Torklift Ecohitch
- Thread starter Richard10k
- Start date
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- Model S
Very cool! I just found the thread where you described this, at Raised ecohitch and cargo basket
As of now, my experience with hitch receivers is minimal. Given that I've never done any metalwork, it would be great to find an off-the-shelf product like that for sale, i.e., by Torklift! On the other hand, I do know people locally who might be happy to help for some extra bucks, provided this could be done without undue safety risks.
I just initiated a conversation with Torklift to see if they can fabricate something, and perhaps offer a raised hitch as an option going forward.
Disappointing news.. our beloved EcoHitches may be causing severe galvanic corrosion issues with the aluminum body.
Tesla Model S hitch by Torklift (3 year update): Eaten alive
Waiting on a response from Torklift now, but I'm afraid mine will be coming off soon.
Tesla Model S hitch by Torklift (3 year update): Eaten alive
Waiting on a response from Torklift now, but I'm afraid mine will be coming off soon.
I don't see any evidence of galvanic corrosion in those pics. Wouldn't the AL to be rotting, not the steel?
Anyone here is a metallurgist?
Very disappointing indeed! If you have yours removed, please let us know if there's any evidence of corrosion. I just had my EcoHitch installed a couple of months ago, so I'm hoping that the coating on the EcoHitch hasn't started to significantly wear off yet. If we end up removing ours, I wonder how we'd cover the hole in the bottom of our bumper.
How long has yours been on? Do you see signs of significant rust where the hitch adapter hooks in?
I also got mine installed (at a tesla approved body shop) just a couple of months ago. This is quite disappointing indeed.
Few things I can see to stay alert:
* monitor for signs of rust...
* use the cover when not using the rack (perhaps also design a cover that works when the hitch receiver is sticking out, to prevent debri from getting in. This way, first signs of rust on the receiver, just replace the receiver)
* folks in snow/salt regions, do the above even more frequently. Unfortunately - I don't think there is a way to "wash off" fresh salt coated if they have gone inside. This is where the problem starts I think...I wonder how much damage just water would do (vs. salt)
Collectively though, we should definitely look for a separation layer between the hitch and the alu body....at least new installations can get it right and rest of us, looks like a $$ work to replace, and re-install.
Few things I can see to stay alert:
* monitor for signs of rust...
* use the cover when not using the rack (perhaps also design a cover that works when the hitch receiver is sticking out, to prevent debri from getting in. This way, first signs of rust on the receiver, just replace the receiver)
* folks in snow/salt regions, do the above even more frequently. Unfortunately - I don't think there is a way to "wash off" fresh salt coated if they have gone inside. This is where the problem starts I think...I wonder how much damage just water would do (vs. salt)
Collectively though, we should definitely look for a separation layer between the hitch and the alu body....at least new installations can get it right and rest of us, looks like a $$ work to replace, and re-install.
headcase
Member
This summer, I was debating between an Torklift EcoHitch and SeaSucker Talon for transporting my mountain bike on my Model S. I ended up going with the SeaSucker setup for a few reasons:
• allows mounting my bike above the rear hatch, thereby not blocking the rear camera or rear sensors as the EcoHitch does
• unlike the EcoHitch, the SeaSucker gear is quickly and easily removable from the car when not in use
• SeaSucker setup is extremely light versus the EcoHitch
• SeaSucker was much less expensive and didn't require a trip to my local body shop to install
Been very happy in its use, and now certainly more glad that I didn't install an EcoHitch after reading the owner blog post on Teslarati.com!
• allows mounting my bike above the rear hatch, thereby not blocking the rear camera or rear sensors as the EcoHitch does
• unlike the EcoHitch, the SeaSucker gear is quickly and easily removable from the car when not in use
• SeaSucker setup is extremely light versus the EcoHitch
• SeaSucker was much less expensive and didn't require a trip to my local body shop to install
Been very happy in its use, and now certainly more glad that I didn't install an EcoHitch after reading the owner blog post on Teslarati.com!
I have a sea sucker set up from a previous car that I use for my model s . It works great for local trips to the trailhead and back. If I have to transport a road bike locally , I typically just take off both wheels and it fits in the trunk fine . The problem is when going on a trip with the sea sucker . It’s a range killer . Big time . Way worse hit then with ice cars .i was averaging 430 wh/m in a model s on a 400 mile trip I took recently,
headcase
Member
Any large device strapped to the car will greatly impact range. Its not the SeaSucker mount, per se. Heck, there's a reason people say putting a bike on a rear trailer hitch is "like towing a parachute".
Don85D
Member
In the 70s some auto manufacturers bolted aluminium bumpers to the steel frame in an effort to reduce weight. Road salt soon made the aluminium into a white powder and the bumpers lost strength. Sailboats have the same issue with fittings bolted to the mast and in that situation it's common to isolate the two metals with a plastic barrier sheet and to use stainless hardware. When it comes time for a hitch on our Model S I'll follow the mariner's approach.
I just pulled off my rear bumper today. The ecohitch looks completely fine. There is no visible corrosion beyond a little surface rust. I coated all of the contact surfaces with some paint just in case.
Though I'm stuck with a different problem. I took off the bumper to install the aluminum crash bar that comes with rear facing seats (my car did not come with rear facing seats, but I'm installing it because I carry dogs in the back regularly). Unfortunately, the studs in the body are not long enough to support both the crash bar and the ecohitch! Now I have to choose... crash protection for the dogs or the ecohitch.
Though I'm stuck with a different problem. I took off the bumper to install the aluminum crash bar that comes with rear facing seats (my car did not come with rear facing seats, but I'm installing it because I carry dogs in the back regularly). Unfortunately, the studs in the body are not long enough to support both the crash bar and the ecohitch! Now I have to choose... crash protection for the dogs or the ecohitch.
I dont get it... mine has both the hitch AND the crash bar...
skitown
Member
You guys might want to see how well those crash bar nuts are secured. I could only get 1 thread on the stud. I know Tesla changes things all the time, so I can't comment on your cars. But on my car, if the stock nut were used, it could not be securely attached.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zMX17GA65zq28gGK7
The stock nuts are flanged and fairly deeply inset inside the nut before the threads start. The thread does not start at the back of the nut.
I went and bought some non-flared nuts that aren't inset inside the nut. I was able to get 3-4 threads on the stud. It's not great. I'm not feeling particularly happy about it.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/zMX17GA65zq28gGK7
The stock nuts are flanged and fairly deeply inset inside the nut before the threads start. The thread does not start at the back of the nut.
I went and bought some non-flared nuts that aren't inset inside the nut. I was able to get 3-4 threads on the stud. It's not great. I'm not feeling particularly happy about it.
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