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TPMS assigned to wrong wheel

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Collected my MYLR yesterday from Staines - build quality looking good, about 50% charge so plenty to get home, love the car so far!

Unfortunately took a first scenic drive today and got a tyre pressure warning for the front left. Pulled over and checked, looked fine, stopped at a garage and pressure was bang on 42. The TPMS then told me the front left was down to 25 psi, took another look and all was fine. Then when I got home I noticed the valve cap was missing from the rear left tyre when it had definitely been there that day before, so got my inflator out and sure enough the pressure was <25psi. The incriminating bolt in the attached photos. So, looks like my TPMS are assigned to the wrong wheels, which isn't great but am sure Tesla can sort easily.

A couple of questions if anyone has any experience? Looks like the screw part in the tyre will be about 5-7mm diameter, has anyone successfully had the Michelin Pilot Sport EV's repaired with a hole that size? And I don't have any jack pads yet - does anyone recommend a tyre place that knows what they're doing with the battery? I'm based in Wokingham, BERKS.

Cheers
 

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I don't get what you are saying, it's really easy... you do a reboot and drive. Sounds control to me. It's designed that way.
I'm talking about controlling the tpms sensors. You used to have some control over them but with the newer sensors, you can't do anything except two scroll salute. To get them rearranged or one that is stuck off, there's nothing end users can do.
 
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I'm talking about controlling the tpms sensors. You used to have some control over them but with the newer sensors, you can't do anything except two scroll salute. To get them rearranged or one that is stuck off, there's nothing end users can do.

And you don't need anything more, it usually just works. No need to overcomplicate. They rearrange themselves perfectly normally.

In the case of the OP, it must be a fault. In which case worth checking anyway as it could be affecting other things too.
 
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I'm talking about controlling the tpms sensors. You used to have some control over them but with the newer sensors, you can't do anything except two scroll salute. To get them rearranged or one that is stuck off, there's nothing end users can do.
I have a 2019 M3, so the older sensors. What controls do I have over them that the newer sensor cars don’t have? Genuine question.
 
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I have a 2019 M3, so the older sensors. What controls do I have over them that the newer sensor cars don’t have? Genuine question.
Check the pic below for ex.

 
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Check the pic below for ex.

Huh? They moved the location of the tyre pressure display. I believe it is still the same on older and newer TPMS cars. You indicated that some controls available with the older TPMS were removed when Tesla switched to bluetooth TPMS. I was wondering what those lost controls are. It really was a genuine question.
 
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You do still have control with Bluetooth TPMS, that's how people swap their wheels all the time. It happens lots all around the world, it's not a new thing anymore.

I don't get what the fault is, but usually it's just a reboot.
They’ll be coded - much as the 433 MHz variants are. It’s just a different radio protocol, but it’s same basis of operation. At some point the new sensors / out of the box need to get coded to the correct corner.

I can do the 433’s with an Autel TS508 but not the BT variety.
 
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They’ll be coded - much as the 433 MHz variants are. It’s just a different radio protocol, but it’s same basis of operation. At some point the new sensors / out of the box need to get coded to the correct corner.

I can do the 433’s with an Autel TS508 but not the BT variety.

But that isn't how it works. I've done it myself.

Honestly, if you swap wheels with new sensors you just reboot.

Here is a video proving it. You don't need to manually code the Bluetooth ones, many manufacturers moved to Bluetooth for this very reason.


I'm not making it up. Watch the video.
 
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They’ll be coded - much as the 433 MHz variants are. It’s just a different radio protocol, but it’s same basis of operation. At some point the new sensors / out of the box need to get coded to the correct corner.

I can do the 433’s with an Autel TS508 but not the BT variety.
For Tesla that has only been true of the Roadster. Every other vehicle has determined the location automatically even with the 433 MHz ones.
 
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Huh? They moved the location of the tyre pressure display. I believe it is still the same on older and newer TPMS cars. You indicated that some controls available with the older TPMS were removed when Tesla switched to bluetooth TPMS. I was wondering what those lost controls are. It really was a genuine question.
Did you miss the TPMS reset button?
 
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I recently had the VCS3C_a222 TPMS error show up on my Model 3 front passenger side wheel not being detected. Actually it was already there when I bought the car and picked it up from CAZOO (online secondhand car dealer UK). They obviously shouldn't have let me leave with the car like that as it's an immediate MOT failure! Anyway, rather than take it back to the dealer for them to correct, under their 90 day warranty, I waited to get my Tesla account set up with the car and booked a service through Tesla. I was quoted £250 to replace the TPMS in the service menu! Anyway I was confident enough that my remaining warranty transfered with the car would cover it, and fortunately it did! Service was was an interesting experience. Followed the instructions sent to me on the app by driving in and parking up at the service center. Locked the doors and walked away. Was wondering if I needed to drop keys/card off anywhere, but I didn't. Was quoted 3 and a half hours for the job to be completed at first, but as I didn't wonder far off I sat in reception and kept an eye on the progress in the app. I was surprised to see they remotely accessed entry to my car without my keys, as it drove past me with the technician! Anyway, the progress time soon updated and ended up being just over an hour before my car came back. Message appeared to pick up the car with temporary PIN to drive and confirmation it was all done under warranty. I Got in and drove off. Was worried it could have been something more serious at first, as being an updated 2021 model with bluetooth tpms there is no menu option to reset them anymore, and no matter how many different ways I rebooted, the car wouldn't pick it up. Odd how my first instinct was that there was nothing wrong with TPMS and must be something else wrong with the car not picking it up instead!
 
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Collected my MYLR yesterday from Staines - build quality looking good, about 50% charge so plenty to get home, love the car so far!

Unfortunately took a first scenic drive today and got a tyre pressure warning for the front left. Pulled over and checked, looked fine, stopped at a garage and pressure was bang on 42. The TPMS then told me the front left was down to 25 psi, took another look and all was fine. Then when I got home I noticed the valve cap was missing from the rear left tyre when it had definitely been there that day before, so got my inflator out and sure enough the pressure was <25psi. The incriminating bolt in the attached photos. So, looks like my TPMS are assigned to the wrong wheels, which isn't great but am sure Tesla can sort easily.

A couple of questions if anyone has any experience? Looks like the screw part in the tyre will be about 5-7mm diameter, has anyone successfully had the Michelin Pilot Sport EV's repaired with a hole that size? And I don't have any jack pads yet - does anyone recommend a tyre place that knows what they're doing with the battery? I'm based in Wokingham, BERKS.

Cheers
You don't need to go to Tesla if its a long way. When you get the puncture repaired just get swap the two wheels over assuming it is only the front and rear left that are wrong. Might want to let a bit of air out of one on the right and see if they are OK.

Most decent garages have the jack pads these days

I had a fairly large hole patched and plugged I think on an MY but that is not the same tyres.
 
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