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Track Report: Model 3 Performance @ ORP, day 1

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They may do all that but for me its not very accurate. It always underestimates my left over battery at destination. This is dangerous because it can leave me stranded. For me its off by 20% so I always have to do a quick calculation on my phone and subtract 20% of what they calculate. If it were indeed looking at how I drive, it would see that I am a super aggressive driver and should adjust accordingly with 2 months worth of driving data. But it hasn't. Its as off today as it was when I got it.

It uses the last 30 miles traveled, which may be configurable. Wouldn't be useful for short trips, but works fine for long trips. Not sure it accounts for driving 100 MPH, but it might. It's a bit conservative for us unless conditions are changing.
 
It uses the last 30 miles traveled, which may be configurable. Wouldn't be useful for short trips, but works fine for long trips. Not sure it accounts for driving 100 MPH, but it might. It's a bit conservative for us unless conditions are changing.
Conservative would be under estimating battery left on destination arrival. I would be fine with that. But it is liberal with it so it leaves me with no battery left before I get there.
 
Agreed. How were your tires? Also this is pre track mode so I'm curious if it gets worse now with the increased regen
Well, I've used three sets of tires:
1. 20" OEM wheels, Michelin Pilot Sport 4S -- rounded with cords showing in the rounded portion after 2 track days @ ORP
2. 20" OEM wheels, MIchelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+ -- ok after 2 track days @ ORP
3. 18" TSportline wheels, Continental DWS 06 -- ok after 1/2 track day @ ORP
 
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Hey guys,
Thanks for sharing your awesome experiences.
I am hesitating between the LR AWD, and the Performace. The only reason I’d have buying the performace would be to go on track.
Would you say it’s doable and worth it?
Any news about track mode? Is it handling the heat better?

The main track I would go to has a 22 kW plug, and there is also a supercharger 25mn away.

I just don’t want to spend $$$ on the performance and not getting any value from it (not reasonable to go on track).

Thank for you advice.
 
Hey guys,
Thanks for sharing your awesome experiences.
I am hesitating between the LR AWD, and the Performace. The only reason I’d have buying the performace would be to go on track.
Would you say it’s doable and worth it?
Any news about track mode? Is it handling the heat better?

The main track I would go to has a 22 kW plug, and there is also a supercharger 25mn away.

I just don’t want to spend $$$ on the performance and not getting any value from it (not reasonable to go on track).

Thank for you advice.

I will probably never go on a track, just like most buyers of a Bimmer M3 or M5 will never do that either. For me, there was a huge difference between 0-60 at 3.2s or 4.4s and the joy I feel entering the freeway and whipping around town. They say you can't put a price on love, but I did. It was like $10K.
 
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Hey guys,
Thanks for sharing your awesome experiences.
I am hesitating between the LR AWD, and the Performace. The only reason I’d have buying the performace would be to go on track.
Would you say it’s doable and worth it?
Any news about track mode? Is it handling the heat better?

The main track I would go to has a 22 kW plug, and there is also a supercharger 25mn away.

I just don’t want to spend $$$ on the performance and not getting any value from it (not reasonable to go on track).

Thank for you advice.

I just had my first track day last weekend. Posted my experience here:
First track day in the books...questions
 
I am hesitating between the LR AWD, and the Performace. The only reason I’d have buying the performace would be to go on track.
Would you say it’s doable and worth it?
Any news about track mode? Is it handling the heat better?
I’ve had both and neither went into limp mode on the track. That was before track mode too, so unless you’re driving on The Ring in Germany, both are not going to overheat.
I think it's worth clarifying what "Limp Mode" means to @cyril94440 to adequately answer his question.

Elaborating...

In the Model S P100D (well, in mine at least...perhaps it's different in newer ones) [and P85D, and when it was a P85D, and the P85 before it] the power limiter would arrive in 8 minutes or less for me. Actually, let me clarify that even further. There are at least 3 levels of power limiting -- 1/2 power, 1/4 power, and 1/8 power. I would regularly hit the 1/8 power mark in 8 minutes or less at the track. As such, I started lining up first for sessions so I'd have the track to myself and then pull off to wait for the next session after 2-4 laps. I would call this Limp Mode for sure.

In the Model 3 P, without Track Mode, I found that I can do sessions as long as 25 minutes -- even on sunny days -- with the limiter a few minutes in. The key differences is that the limiter didn't turn the vehicle from a rocket into an RC car. The limiter dropped me from "hard to keep up with" (in a straight line, I'm not talking about driver skill) to "competitive with the run group minus Ferraris, Audi A8s, and such". The difference versus the S cannot be understated -- switch to the 3 allowed me to do entire sessions, and actually enjoy doing so. I don't consider that Limp Mode.

Regarding Track Mode... I haven't had a chance to take Track Mode out for lapping yet (ETA: 9 days). For autocross, it was incredibly fun and liberating.


Some locational context...

Autocross
  • Bremerton Raceway Park (Bremerton, WA) - 5+ per year last 6 years in S, twice in 3 this year
Drag racing
  • Pacific Raceways - once in P85
  • Sacramento Raceway - once in P100D
Lapping
  • The Ridge (Shelton, WA) - several times in S, twice in 3
  • Oregon Raceway Park (Grass Valley, OR) - several times in S, once in 3
  • Portand International Raceway (Portland, OR) - several times in S, twice in 3
  • Pacific Raceways (Kent, WA) - a few times in S
  • Laguna Seca (Monterey, CA) - once each in S P85, S P85D, and S P100D
 
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Wow that’s awesome. Thank you very much for your detailed answers.
So if I sum up it is perfectly doable to go on track as long as :
- you are ready to seek for electricity all day (20+ kW plug on track + supercharger <30mn away)
- you put some racing breaking fluid
- you are ready to change for racing breaking pads (every 5-6 racing days ?)
- you are ready being a little bit powered down on 15+ mn sessions (not as much as limp mode)
- you are willing to change tyres (every 4-5 racing days?)

(Some are not tesla-specific)

Does that sound correct? Did I miss anything?
Would be awesome to create such a list with price estimation and links to products don’t you think?
 
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My experience is this car needs three things for a successful track day: charging, tires, and brakes.

Charging - need to be able to charge constantly between sessions. Supercharger available during a long break, or willingness to sit out a session. I'm sure it's track dependent to some degree, but I'll go forward expecting to use 40-45% of the battery per 20 minute session. 14-50 outlet seems to recharge at about 10% per hour. You can do the math. The car ran really strong over 70% charge. It still ran really well between 20 and 70%, but it was missing a little bit on the top end. I didn't feel this was limiting at all, still had plenty of power to out-accelerate people after exiting a corner. I started to feel the acceleration weakening quite a bit under 20%, and by the time I dropped under 10% charge I was no longer able to pass. The high HP cars were faster than me on the straights, although I was still keeping up with the Miatas and that sort just fine.

Tires - stock PS4S tires work well on the track, I didn't find any lack of traction. But they do not hold up well. I don't have any experience with track specific tires yet so I can't speak to that, but I'm expecting to spend somewhere around $2000 for a set of track wheels and tires.

Brakes:
- Fluid is important due to the boiling points. Stock fluid is DOT3, which has dry/wet minimum boiling temps of 401/284 deg F. Castrol SRF, by comparison, 590/518. It's about $60/bottle, and I used 2 to do a full flush. Motul is cheaper, but I haven't used it so can't speak to it.
- Stock pads are not cut out for tracking IMO. Even if I take wear out of the equation, my stock pads glazed over during the first of 4 sessions and the brake pedal got really soft. I lost a lot of confidence in the braking. A better compound pad, even on stock rotors, should work much better. Better pad set is probably somewhere in the $300-500 range. If you take it the next step and replace the rotors as well, it jumps to a bit over $2000.
 
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