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Trailer hitch on 2021 refresh?

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Update. I was ready to dig for wiring today. I have a wire “sniffer” I use at work. I planned to hook it up to the brake controller connection. The brake controller has a dedicated wire that leads all the way back to the hitch because it’s proportional.

Popped off the under dash cover, easiest I’ve ever pulled off because it’s on with magnets. Meet as a pin under there. Well insulated too.

I could not find the connector. I know exactly what to look for because I installed a brake controller in my X.

If the brake controller isn’t there it’s doubtful there is any other wiring in the car. I just watched Model Y brake controller Video and the connector was wedged way down behind the side panel next to the dead pedal. So it’s possible it’s still in there. Model X was very obvious and very easy to get to.

It’s not 100% sure there is no wiring in the back either even if there is no brake controller. Since it’s rated for 3500 lbs often that doesn’t need brakes. But on Jeeps any trailer over 2000 lbs required brakes.

If anyone has better luck poking around please share.

Oh backup plan status:

This is working.


I just ordered a 2nd one. Be curious if one remote runs both or they stay independent.

For braking and running lights it works really good.

For signals there is several issues.

No feedback, no timeout and remote range. So it’s easy to be left blinking and not know it.

I lied there is some feedback. You can hear it, it’s pretty loud. I can hear it at stop lights but not while driving.

Another issue. It barely has the range needed. If remote is on my lap it may or may not reach. If I have it near driver window it works 99%.

I might move it closer and higher on the trailer. That way I can visually confirm in mirrors and range will work. But it’s comforting having the running lights and brake lights at the rear of the trailer. So I’m not sure what to do.

Priority is probably.

Running lights (at night)
Brake lights
Blinkers.

I have high sides on my utility trailer. They don’t really need to be as high as they are. If I cut them down blinkers on Car can be clearly seen. Trailer has no brakes. Probably 2000-2500 gross weight. Can’t read labels and more ;)

I mostly use the Trailer to dump grass and leaves at local recycle center and Home Depot runs.

I have a second heavier duty trailer, gross weight is 5000lbs with hydraulic dumping. Love this trailer. It has electric brakes. I will probably trade it for a 3500 lb version that also dumps and is lighter duty. It has its own battery. For the hydraulic pump.
 
Refresh plus wiring diagrams completely removed any references to towing abilities. I spent an hour looking at the X diagram vs the S (Refresh/+) and theres some info that the plugs exist and are hooked up to VCFront Left, but they don't have a corresponding plug on the other side. So it's terminated somewhere.

Keep in mind that all the power is 16v so you'll have to have a stepdown converter to reliably use anything. Thats why theres a provision for a brake controller on the hitch to receive 16V power, LIN signals and a ground and output standard 12V and a wire for each light.
 
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Refresh plus wiring diagrams completely removed any references to towing abilities. I spent an hour looking at the X diagram vs the S (Refresh/+) and theres some info that the plugs exist and are hooked up to VCFront Left, but they don't have a corresponding plug on the other side. So it's terminated somewhere.

Keep in mind that all the power is 16v so you'll have to have a stepdown converter to reliably use anything. Thats why theres a provision for a brake controller on the hitch to receive 16V power, LIN signals and a ground and output standard 12V and a wire for each light.
Thanks for the info.

Is that all changed from Raven?

I had all standard ICE brake controller and trailer on my Raven X. Never checked voltages.

I don’t think 16v should be that much trouble since most ICE cars charge at around 15V.
 
Thanks for the info.

Is that all changed from Raven?

I had all standard ICE brake controller and trailer on my Raven X. Never checked voltages.

I don’t think 16v should be that much trouble since most ICE cars charge at around 15V.
Yeah all Refresh vehicles use a 16V system with the new lithium iron phosphate "12V" battery
 
Hi guys,

Im happy you guys are working it. Right now we are doing intensive work on the plaid's software and harware for a special project. Would any of you know if its a better idea to order the 1027581-00-h or the torklift hitch ? I have a model S plaid 2022
 
Hi guys,

Im happy you guys are working it. Right now we are doing intensive work on the plaid's software and harware for a special project. Would any of you know if its a better idea to order the 1027581-00-h or the torklift hitch ? I have a model S plaid 2022
OEM hitch is a no brainer.

Bolts right on, has Model S Load Rating label on it (From Tesla), Higher load rating and the Factory hitch cover can still be used.
 
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Hi guys,

Im happy you guys are working it. Right now we are doing intensive work on the plaid's software and harware for a special project. Would any of you know if its a better idea to order the 1027581-00-h or the torklift hitch ? I have a model S plaid 2022
Get the OEM. I was not able to order it from Tesla but I ordered the part bar and receiver on eBay. Doesn't have the Model S sticker but should fit and be identical and a little more expensive.

Oh well. I just want to carry my mountain bike without a roof rack.
 
Get the OEM. I was not able to order it from Tesla but I ordered the part bar and receiver on eBay. Doesn't have the Model S sticker but should fit and be identical and a little more expensive.

Oh well. I just want to carry my mountain bike without a roof rack.
I used my friends model X vin and sent him to tesla parts to buy it but they w'ere not happy about it. I have almost everything i need. Now i need to find if its possible to enable Tow mode.
 
Few tips. I did it myself fine.

I put the car on High and Jack mode.
You only have to remove 3-4 nuts in the middle of the bottom cover and leave it connected to bumper.
That bottom cover looked like a lot of work to get off, so I left it.
You don't need to remove that nut in the Wheel well.
Foil was not covering hole by a good inch, I pulled it off completely and repositioned.
Getting foil off was easy.
Never had to disconnect wires on bumper.
I did disconnect a light on the right side when I pulled carpet/liner back.
I never removed the trunk gasket.
I dropped both my socket and nut in that hole behind foil. Was not to bad getting either back out.
I reused original nuts, don't need to buy.
I didn't try that hard looking at electrical but there wasn't much advantage of leaving bumper off, so I put it back together.
I'll tackle electrical (maybe) another day.
New hitch went on like a leather glove. No reaming and didn't have to bend that tab.
Sticker for MS 3500 lbs is in clear view through the hatch.
I left tires on.
You only need to pop 2-3 rivets. Not sure the one furthest in is needed. All you're doing is folding the liner back to get that torx bolt out.

After taking part of the trunk apart, DO NOT put too much weight back there. It's not the strongest. You'll see.
And I don't mean it's weak while it's apart, I mean ever. ;)
Car overall seems built great and insulated great.

Already made a dump run.
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You can see a little green spec on the left. Wires can come through there if you want to wire the hitch.
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I did not have to bend this tab that the red connector is mounted on.
52038457298_e14d78e0d4_b_d.jpg


Had to take that piece out that is sitting in the shelf in upper left corner. Once I did that I had enough room to pull liner back and to get nut off.
It pops right out.
52038405596_02fe968603_b_d.jpg


This is where torx screw goes through
52038405581_5e8cd0dcc6_b_d.jpg


Don't lose this, I found one on the floor and I dismissed it and then realized it belonged here later. This is the nut behind the foil.
52038405571_fd1abd6685_b_d.jpg


Only two parts left over !! Really I have no idea where they came from. Might not even be from this car. The bolt is not like the bolts on the bottom cover (same socket size though, but the fender washer is much larger and I think thread much smaller). If you do see these in your travels let me know where they go :)

DAMN, reviewing my post for typo's look at the 2nd photo closely.
52038920325_b7a4526978_b_d.jpg


This Video was helpful, but ignore most of the bottom cover stuff.
I didn't pull the trunk gasket off, since it may be glued as video showed.


Adding the Invoice again so everything is in this one post.
51989149985_0937d68123_b_d.jpg
Hi, Can you tell me what we need to buy to be able to wire the hitch connector to get brake light etc ?
 
From looking at their website, TorkLift Central offers a wiring harness for the new Model S when you order their EcoHitch. I don't need the wiring harness, but if someone else wants to inquire with TorkLift if they sell the wiring harness as a stand-alone part, that might be a solution for those who want to use the OEM Model X hitch.
 
From looking at their website, TorkLift Central offers a wiring harness for the new Model S when you order their EcoHitch. I don't need the wiring harness, but if someone else wants to inquire with TorkLift if they sell the wiring harness as a stand-alone part, that might be a solution for those who want to use the OEM Model X hitch.
It looks exactly like the same unit they use on Model Y and sold on Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CKQJCBY

Tesla and BMW i3 Wiring Harness
 
So I tackled the hitch installation yesterday. Thanks to all the previous information on this thread, it was easy and fit perfectly (previously used MX hitch I purchased off ebay).
Hitch1.jpg

Hitch2.jpg

Hitch3.jpg

Hitch4.jpg


I also attempted to install functioning lights, not so much that I need to pull a trailer (hitch is primarily for a rear bike rack), but I prefer to have fully-functioning equipment on the car. My car is a September 2021 build and there are definitely no plugs for a wiring harness that I could find anywhere around the rear of the vehicle.

I opted to install the Tekonsha 119250 as I saw videos where it was successfully installed on a 2020 MS. Unfortunately, despite having spent hours fiddling with different configurations, I was unable to get the unit to fully function correctly. Despite the 2021 refresh having tail lights that look the same as the prior MS, they are not wired the same. I was able to find the wiring schematic for my car, which suggests it runs a 3 wire system at the tail lights (blue for brake, white for running, green for left signal and tan for right signal). However, the signals and brakes illuminate the same portions of the LEDs in the light fixture and appear not to be separate and discrete circuits. My multimeter confirmed that when the brakes are applied, both the brake circuit and each of the signal circuits are energized (both left signal and right signal wires carried 15.5v when brakes were applied). Similarly, when a signal is on, the brake circuit on that side of the vehicle is energized with each flash of the signal (again, 15.5v each time the signal flashes). Consequently, I was unable to figure out a way to configure the Tekonsha unit to properly distinguish between brakes and signals. I could get the running lights to function properly, but not the brakes and signals together. I suspect that the unit needs to be installed on wires other than the tail light leads to be able to configure the unit correctly (for example, the centre brake light on the trunk and the side markers). However, that would require running a bunch of wires all over the car, which I'm not interested in doing. After spending too many hours trying to figure out the wiring, I decided to abandon it. Perhaps someone else will figure it out, or better yet, Tesla issue a retrofit trailer wiring kit (unlikely).
 

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  • Tail light Wiring Schematic.pdf
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So I tackled the hitch installation yesterday. Thanks to all the previous information on this thread, it was easy and fit perfectly (previously used MX hitch I purchased off ebay).
View attachment 807024
View attachment 807025
View attachment 807026
View attachment 807027

I also attempted to install functioning lights, not so much that I need to pull a trailer (hitch is primarily for a rear bike rack), but I prefer to have fully-functioning equipment on the car. My car is a September 2021 build and there are definitely no plugs for a wiring harness that I could find anywhere around the rear of the vehicle.

I opted to install the Tekonsha 119250 as I saw videos where it was successfully installed on a 2020 MS. Unfortunately, despite having spent hours fiddling with different configurations, I was unable to get the unit to fully function correctly. Despite the 2021 refresh having tail lights that look the same as the prior MS, they are not wired the same. I was able to find the wiring schematic for my car, which suggests it runs a 3 wire system at the tail lights (blue for brake, white for running, green for left signal and tan for right signal). However, the signals and brakes illuminate the same portions of the LEDs in the light fixture and appear not to be separate and discrete circuits. My multimeter confirmed that when the brakes are applied, both the brake circuit and each of the signal circuits are energized (both left signal and right signal wires carried 15.5v when brakes were applied). Similarly, when a signal is on, the brake circuit on that side of the vehicle is energized with each flash of the signal (again, 15.5v each time the signal flashes). Consequently, I was unable to figure out a way to configure the Tekonsha unit to properly distinguish between brakes and signals. I could get the running lights to function properly, but not the brakes and signals together. I suspect that the unit needs to be installed on wires other than the tail light leads to be able to configure the unit correctly (for example, the centre brake light on the trunk and the side markers). However, that would require running a bunch of wires all over the car, which I'm not interested in doing. After spending too many hours trying to figure out the wiring, I decided to abandon it. Perhaps someone else will figure it out, or better yet, Tesla issue a retrofit trailer wiring kit (unlikely).
What year hitch was that you installed?
 
Couple mods to my setup

I ordered this so I can have the chains on the ball mount. I don't know how legal it is. But I tow 30 mph on back roads to the dump.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C50BY

As some of you know removing the adapter is a PITA and messy. I tend to leave it in, at least all summer. But it wasn't pretty wide open.

I'm using "wireless" bike lights (they activate on gforce) for now so no wires need to be accessed.

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