supratachophobia
Active Member
Did not know that, thank you. Now there are 3 ways it can reset amperage.Or after firmware update.
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Did not know that, thank you. Now there are 3 ways it can reset amperage.Or after firmware update.
This would be a more usable product if it allowed for custom amperages from within the display.Check out the Dryer Buddy.
I knew I had a big beefy 240V outlet in my garage since the previous owner had shop tools, so I assumed I was okay. But today I decided to check.
It's a NEMA 6-50, not a 14-50. Hm, that's weird. Well, if he ran a four-conductor wire, maybe that's good enough. Or maybe grounding to the conduit (it's exposed rigid metal).
Wait, the breaker for it is a 30A breaker, not a 50A breaker. That's going to be a bit of a job there. But maybe he used a wire that can carry 50A?
Nope. 10 AWG.
Looks like I have a week and change (judging from the most recent car to hit production being confirmed 7/3 and entering production 7/15) to sort this out. Guess I'll be calling some electricians.
Correction, the car does it only after you have manually set it the first time. I have seen it revert back to 40amps in two situations: uncertain/unprecise GPS lock, and power outage in the environment. While they are unlikely to happen, be aware that they can happen.
Just got off the phone with the service center and they didn't have one and couldn't track one down for me.
I also got a pretty stern warning that if I used a third party adapter, that Tesla wouldn't not cover any damage to the vehicle or charger that could result. So, I guess that's a shot over my bow.
Does the car know where we are by GPS and self adjust accordingly?
I have one on order, I'll let everyone know how it works out. Supposed to arrive this week. I did get the plus that allows you to manually switch the outlet back and forth rather than being a straight port replicator, though, since that seemed infinitely safer.This would be a more usable product if it allowed for custom amperages from within the display.
Nope. 10 AWG.
Ouch. I guess this is a good example of why Tesla discontinued the 6-50 adapter.
If you could get your hands on a 10-30 or 14-30 adapter, then that would seem to be the ideal solution. Replace the outlet and done. Alternatively, you could install a Wall Connector and set it for a 30A circuit.
If it looks like it'll be a problem to get this resolved before your car gets there, don't underestimate the usefulness of 120V charging off a standard outlet. I wouldn't want to do that long term if there were alternatives, but if you average less than 40-50 miles of driving per day, it'll sustain you.
That's not a good reason at all. In fact, it's no different than doing a 14-50 with 30amp wiring. It's reasonable to assume that a 6-50 is capable of carrying 50amps. In OP's case, it looks like someone took a shortcut, which, in general, a licensed electrician would not have done.
I knew I had a big beefy 240V outlet in my garage since the previous owner had shop tools, so I assumed I was okay. But today I decided to check.
It's a NEMA 6-50, not a 14-50. Hm, that's weird. Well, if he ran a four-conductor wire, maybe that's good enough. Or maybe grounding to the conduit (it's exposed rigid metal).
Wait, the breaker for it is a 30A breaker, not a 50A breaker. That's going to be a bit of a job there. But maybe he used a wire that can carry 50A?
Nope. 10 AWG.
Looks like I have a week and change (judging from the most recent car to hit production being confirmed 7/3 and entering production 7/15) to sort this out. Guess I'll be calling some electricians.
To the layman it seems reasonable to assume that, I certainly did, but see some of FlasherZ's posts on this-- lots of 6-50 outlets installed for welders are on smaller circuits than 50A and it's allowed by code.That's not a good reason at all. In fact, it's no different than doing a 14-50 with 30amp wiring. It's reasonable to assume that a 6-50 is capable of carrying 50amps. In OP's case, it looks like someone took a shortcut, which, in general, a licensed electrician would not have done.
This is terrible.... why install an outlet that isn't rated for the wiring?To the layman it seems reasonable to assume that, I certainly did, but see some of FlasherZ's posts on this-- lots of 6-50 outlets installed for welders are on smaller circuits than 50A and it's allowed by code.
Yes that is how it works, but if the GPS is off a little it might charge at 40 A. Don't count on it for safety. Instead, it is better to make sure you have a properly configured UMC, HPWC, or third party EVSE that provides the correct pilot signal to tell the car maximum safe amps for the supply circuit.
GSP
The quick fix is to build or buy a NEMA 6-50 to 14-50 adapter, use Tesla 14-50 adapter and dial down the amps to 24. But I would only do that until you got a better solution since this is going to be your daily recharge.
If the panel isn't too far away, I would get the electrician to install a new 14-50 plug. Either re use the breaker space that the 30 amp breaker occupies, or put in the 50 amp breaker in a new slot. If you keep the 30 amp breaker, swap out the receptacle for a 6-30 receptacle so at least the receptacle and breaker rating match.
Another option is to buy an HPWC for your garage instead of installing a new 14-50 receptacle. You could do this without running any new wires. Just wire up the HPWC to the wires in that 6-50 receptacle directly and use the dip switches to set the HPWC for a 30A circuit (24 amp draw). This is probably the best and as cheap option as anything else. This has the advantage of allowing you to keep your UMC always in your car so you never forget it when going on long road trips.
I picked up a NEMA 14-30 adapter for the mobile connector today.
This is terrible.... why install an outlet that isn't rated for the wiring?