smatthew
Active Member
You also don't have to use auto-open......... When I get close to my garage the homelink menu opens and I just tap my garage door and it opens IF I want it to.
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Under the new Frunk.
- Thread starter ncinc99
- Start date
So what does the heat pump enable in cold climates that a non-heat pump Model 3 doesn’t have?
(bear in mind: nobody outside Tesla has actually driven a model Y in the winter yet.)
This is not remote or tesla issue. You need to recalibrate the door, I installed my garage door opener month ago and it was acting like this until I recalibrated it. Safety systems has to be properly configured as well, door must go back if you place 2*4 wood piece under it when it is closing, at the same time door should not close if there is cardboard box large enough to block safery sensors. I suggest you to find manual online for your opener and go through all safety steps
I can do that but it might take a bit for a full write up. But the summary is I ended up using this receiver:
https://www.amazon.com/eMylo-Wirele...0&sr=1-1-25b07e09-600a-4f0d-816e-b06387f8bcf1
along with this magnetic sensor:
https://www.amazon.com/SM-226L-3Q-S...ge+door+magnetic+sensor&qid=1601388550&sr=8-5
I bought that magnetic sensor because it has both normally open (no) and normally closed (nc) magnetic switches. I needed the nc option for the initial attempt that didn't work out. The final solution required a no switch which should be cheaper. But is actually a pretty nice, well made switch.
maybe. the safety sensors usually only work when the door is closing, not opening. Think about it - if you pull in while the door is still opening, you wouldn't want the door to reverse direction...
MarsOrBust
Member
Does anybody know what the heck all those components are?
Seems like a lot if plumbing.
I am guessing windshield wiper tank in the middle but thats about it.
It says the door stops not reverses. When opener is being calibrated it measures force its needs to operate, if force to pull the door is higher to what it was calibrated, the opener will think pulley hit the end of the track or some other obstacle.
android04
Active Member
That tank in the middle is coolant that is used to cool the battery pack, motor/s, and ICE (infotainment + autopilot computers). There are lines running to all those components plus the condenser in the front (that's a radiator underneath the big black rectangular plastic shroud in the very front of the car). The windshield washer fluid reservoir is mostly hidden by the firewall in the front left of the driver (follow the filler down).
Here's a good video that explains the cooling system (non-heatpump version that all current production Model 3s have)
BillnKay
Member
webbah
Active Member
It's much more efficient. In other words, less lost range in cold weather.
Tesla Model Y has a heat pump for consistent range in cold climates - Electrek
Within ideal temperatures, sure. Below about 10 degrees, not so much. And I’m curious to see how it does below zero. Heat pumps are usually not overly effective at such temperatures and in fact, usually need to be supplemented.
All that said - while range is important, I care more about cabin temperature when it’s super cold out. I don’t travel all that far in the dead of winter - but wherever I go, I want to be warm.
I’m not yet on the “heat pump is better than PTC in all situations” bandwagon. Hopefully come April 2021, I’ll eat those words!
smatthew
Active Member
Here's the COP vs Temperature graph for a fairly standard air source heat pump.
Notice that even at the temperature of -19C/-2F the Coefficient Of Performance or COP is still like 1.75. That means you put 100 watts into it, you're getting 175 watts of heat back.
The COP of a PTC heater is 1.0.
In case of heat pumps, the COP is always greater than 1 in accordance with second law of thermodynamics. A more technical answer can be found here. https://www.brighthubengineering.com/hvac/16284-coefficient-of-performance-of-the-heat-pumps/
I just installed TailWind last night for both my doors. It is amazing. Ties to the cars Bluetooth and auto opens ans closes the doors as the car approaches and leaves. My phone app controls it and it integrated to Google Home perfectly. Would never buy Homelink now.
Use the discount code SHIP4LESS to get a discounted shipping rate.
There's a tremendous difference between ideal COP and actual COP. We're getting real deep in the weeds, but real-world performance in subfreezing temperature has always been a challenge for heat pumps. Essentially - there's nowhere to pull the heat from, when the ambient is so cold. (Don't forget the energy used for the defrost cycle, for one.) Would be curious to see what the balance point is for the Model Y's heat pump.
Air-Source Heat Pump or Air-to-Air Heat Pump | EGEE 102: Energy Conservation and Environmental Protection
smatthew
Active Member
Notice that your graph says "modern heat pumps have COP's greater than 1.0 down to -25F." And it's copyrighted 2010.
As long as the COP is greater than 1, it is more efficient than a PTC heater. And Tesla has talked about some techniques they're using instead of having a PTC backup heater. I think they thought and engineered this one right.
As long as the COP is greater than 1, it is more efficient than a PTC heater. And Tesla has talked about some techniques they're using instead of having a PTC backup heater. I think they thought and engineered this one right.
I'm sure it won't suck ... and I'm sure Tesla really engineered the hell out of it - but anything that means a less-warm-or-less-quick-to-warm cabin than today will meet spousal disapproval... Again, based on my limited experience with heat pumps, I haven't been a fan. Let Tesla make me a believer! One winter cycle should tell the story.
I'm totally good if I'm singing out of an old songbook here. Just color me in the "skeptical till I see it" category.
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