Used 2018/9 P3D w/ FSD OR New LR AWD AP w/ Boost

[Puku88]

Hey gang.

I was pretty set on purchasing a preowned 2018/19 M3P with FSD - 20k miles. Call it $52k

BUT, since the refresh yesterday I'm loosing my mind. I can get a NEW LR AWD with Basic AP and add Accel boost for roughly the same cost. $54k otd.



Just looking for some perspective here - will FSD be a future proof 'asset' at some point. Right now I would be content with AP.

Also Acceleration - I've never even driven a M3P only a LRAWD without boost.

I'm pretty frothed up over here.. .talk some sense into me.

 

[Sam1]

Yes

 

[Puku88]

... Yup.

 

[akenham]

LR AWD is about 4 secs,
With boost about 3.5
M3P is just under 3
(all one foot rollout)
We won't know if there is any difference to these numbers with the refresh M3 for a bit until someone tests them - the suspicion is Tesla are merely finally adjusting for the free boosts that were never in the figures but we won't know for a bit.

You don't get track mode, upgraded brakes and suspension or the 20 inch wheels unless you get the P so if you intend to track it that's the option .

Personally, since I don't care about track, I don't want larger wheels (with the reduction in range and vulnerability to potholes) and I don't feel FSD is worth it for me - I'd prefer the updated new LR AWD. But again that's my personal take. I don't think you can make a solid case that either is "wrong" or "worse", it depends what those things are worth to you.

 

[RoBoRaT]

Go big or go home!
Go 2021 M3P

But seriously, between your current choice, I'd go with new 2021 LR AWD. New battery, refreshed components, full warranty going forward.
Good luck!

 

[Puku88]

You hit a pretty solid point - I don't intend on tracking the car and although the 20's look nice, it's almost more annoying as I'm certain the ride must be more firm vs. 19's or 18's. Plus I am in MN and will need winter tires or winter rims and tires.

So. Heat pump, power trunk, updated center counsel/glove box VS. sub 3 second 0-60 (rollout)

 

[Sam1]

18"s are what should be on every car, the ride so much nicer than the 19's and the 20's

 

[boriszima]

for extra $2k and you got a brand new car with warranty and more features? seems like a good deal

 

[aspec818]

If you have to ask, you’re always going to want the Performance if you just get the non P.

 

[ChadS]

The P can be compelling. I had a non -P for a few months, but sold it and got a P. It will vary by person, but I am much happier with the P.

FSD is not very exciting yet, but should get better and given how expensive the option is, it should help a lot with resale value.

 

[Puku88]

Well damn......

Ordered a New MSM/W LR AWD. I test drove a MSM/W LR and knew that was the one. Kinda wish I could keep the chrome vs black trim....

Also, Chad, you helped. I want to put Tsportline 'arachnids' on it like yours - looks soo good!

 

[howardc888]

Forget all the different factors which can be too confusing. Just ask yourself how important the P is. If it is the most important thing, go with the P. If P is just good to have and not the most important factor, then go with new car. For me, P is the most important factor so I will get P for sure. So my comparison would be the new P vs the old P. If money is not too much concern, go with the new P. I don't really care for FSD so it can save $8k there.

 

[ahhlun]

$2k for the new car for sure!

 

[pianomankd]

new

 

[Sophias_dad]

Well damn......

Ordered a New MSM/W LR AWD. I test drove a MSM/W LR and knew that was the one. Kinda wish I could keep the chrome vs black trim....

I don't know how hard it is to remove, but there are probably people around who would pay you to swap trims.

 

[one2many]

new

 

[Greglorious]

New and depreciation is much much less on the LR as opposed to P. Vroom is literally offering more for the long range even when factors such as mileage and year are the same.

 

[Puku88]

Honestly before this weeks refresh it was 100% P mode 'used'.

After the refresh and mainly the range and performance bumps, that tipped it for me. ooooohhh that new car smell AND... AND the super sweet delivery experience I've heard so much about (breaking out micrometer, ordering a paint thickness detector and 95 page delivery check list...........)

Now I need to transition this discussion to the 'how to I hurry up and and wait 5-9 weeks' When do I get my VIN etc etc etc etc

 

[Rottenapplr]

I’m so jealous with the new awd range. 550+ is amazing range. It beats my 325 rwd long range. Plus it’s awd is fast! And faster charging speed. So imho get the awd and get the acceleration boost but honestly you will eventually get used to the speed and won’t gun the car as much. I know for me I don’t gun my car every day anymore since I’m used to it and I don’t need a speeding ticket. When I got it every chance I could I accelerated fast. I got super paranoid when a cop is behind me thinking they saw me accelerate fast.

The performance is great but you won’t appreciate the brakes unless you run the car in a track imho and suspension wise get lowering spring if you want. I’m only speaking for myself about the track experience because I bought a $4K bmw performance bbk kit with drilled and slotted two piece rotors, 6 piston gold calipers in my bmw, but I did it cause I can and I wanted the look. I didn’t even bring it to the track lol so ya... it spend 3 years stopping my car on my mostly traffic free highway driving commute to work lol. On the Tesla I bet you use regen on your Tesla and those performance brakes will probably see 5% usage on a daily basis lol unless you track or want bragging right awd is a great deal.

 

[SlimJim]

I have AWD with boost and I like it. But I do have p3d envy.
I would get the p3d if it was without FSD and $46k. ( I subtracted $6k for FSD delete. )
You cannot go wrong either way.
3.5 vs 2.9.