Getting the above noise which seems to be coming from passenger side rear, particularly on slight uneven roads at anything over 60mph it seems. Anybody else experienced same and managed to rectify? Ive checked trim, seats and fixings best I can but cannot eliminate, any help appreciated thanks
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Vibration / Buzzing Noise
- Thread starter cjh75
- Start date
Jason71
Well-Known Member
there is a general issue that when the door seals dry out they rub on the windows when the car flexes and the noise can be a strange.
tends to sound more like a rattle though so may not be that in your case. there are threads on it. gummy pfledge on the seals sorts it out.
you could try taping the trim and gaps and going for a drive that would rule out wind noise. Location can often be misleading though in a cabin so maybe get someone else to drive and sit in the back and listen.
tends to sound more like a rattle though so may not be that in your case. there are threads on it. gummy pfledge on the seals sorts it out.
you could try taping the trim and gaps and going for a drive that would rule out wind noise. Location can often be misleading though in a cabin so maybe get someone else to drive and sit in the back and listen.
MrBadger
Badger out
Two things, but you probably have already covered that.
Front passenger seatbelt:
Front passenger seatbelt:
- top mounting
- the way the seatbelt hangs and touches the seat - easily checked by clipping the seatbelt closed
Hi yes already checked and again, thats a different noise to what im getting at the moment. It only kicks in on uneven surfaces at higher speeds but is really quite loud. Tesla service have said they can come out but if deemed wear and tear, they will charge me £72, so would rather diagnose myself just to be safe!
There's a door-release cable in the rear doors - it's not connected to anything and just flaps around. They do stick some foam over the inner core to stop that rattling, but the other end that's connected to the door catch vibrates.
I've fixed both rear doors on my car by removing the door panel and pushing the inner core of the cable all the way in then securing it.
The pic below shows the cable - it's the thing with the yellow collar. Note all the black adhesive tape.... that was Tesla's (unsuccessful) attempt at fixing the rattle...
SteveLR3
Member
There's some videos on the model 3 wiki site about various rattles. See if any of these help.
Tesla Model 3 Rattle Fixes – Tesla Model 3 Wiki
Tesla Model 3 Rattle Fixes – Tesla Model 3 Wiki
I would say it did match, yes.
One door also had a very obvious ticking sound if I rocked it back-and-forth - that noise was coming from behind the catch and seemed to have been the aforementioned cable rattling when there was no tension or pressure on its inner core.
Removing the door panels is easy and it's also worthwhile taping-down the cables where their connectors clip onto the door as they don't fit tightly.
Also check under both front seats - there are plastic vents which on my car were very loose. Some double-sided adhesive foam strip sorted that out.
SteveLR3
Member
Have the white clips come detached from the door? They should remain in the metal and only the black 'pin' portion should come off with the panel.
If the white part's come away you can release it using a small-bladed screwdriver to pry apart the top where it clips over the black centre section.
When replacing the panel 'hang' it from the top first - there's a right-angled section along the top of the panel that holds the top edge in place.
Cnixon
Member
So did the rear door originally have the manual door release like front doors? Probably could not stop kids? opening doors whilst driving!! I have the rattle too. I assume rear door trim comes off like front door trim video.
LongRanger
Active Member
Can strongly recommend “Skinz foam liner” or equivalent for jobs like this, adhere to inner door metal skin and bingo less road noise / minimal rattling bits.
You need at least the 1/4 inch to be properly effective, preferably 1/2. Some careful trimming will be needed where door card fixes back on so it doesn’t interfere.
Mirror what you end up with from one side to the other so you only have thinking work to do for 1x front and 1x rear template.
You need at least the 1/4 inch to be properly effective, preferably 1/2. Some careful trimming will be needed where door card fixes back on so it doesn’t interfere.
Mirror what you end up with from one side to the other so you only have thinking work to do for 1x front and 1x rear template.
I read somewhere that it's used during manufacture. Not sure if that's true but it does seem odd that they fit this and then it goes unused.
Rear panel removal is very similar to the front - undo 2 bolts and, starting at the bottom, pull...