Wall Connector Gen3

[hookah66]

Just installed a Gen 3 Wall Connector ... checked all circuitry from breaker (60A) to the unit, ran a #6 AWG Romex, no GFI and no intermediate disconnect swicth ... no errors and no faults. Able to log in and confirmed the specifics of the configuration; WiFi strength @ 100% (have a Cisco mesh throughout the house) and saw the device IP on the wireless router ... but it took 72 hours for it to get back to stand by mode again (steady one green light). It was slowly pulsating one green light to five light and back again to one, it looks like it was attempting to download a firmware update...this went on for 48 hours and finally it reached steady state. I re-logged in to the device and the firmware update was not completed, and it started again to pulsate for another 48 hours. Called the 800 number and they told me that they have pushed a substantial firmware update for all recently released new model and this was causing longer than usual uploading time for the firmware to be completed. I find it odd for it to take so long to do this. Finally it is in the steady state stand by mode again ... and I am not touching it. I couldn't test if it will charge or not for I haven't accepted the delivery of my Model Y yet. Prior to this I was using also a J1772 Tesla wall connector Gen 1 (non-WiFi) to charge my Mach-e without any issues since May of 2021 .... anyone with similar issue?

 

[hookah66]

PS: I found that my "new" Wall Connector firmware is v. 22.33.1 the current most up to date firmware is v. 22.45.1 which is FOUR versions behind according to the Wall Monitor App ... no wonder it is taking so long to update !!!

 

[dafish]

That's interesting. I've not seen 6 gauge romex, usually called 6/3 NM, rated for a 60 amps. May I ask more about what you used? You may have found an important silver bullet I'd like to know more about.

 

[kclm]

Just installed a Gen 3 Wall Connector ... checked all circuitry from breaker (60A) to the unit, ran a #6 AWG Romex, no GFI and no intermediate disconnect swicth ... no errors and no faults. Able to log in and confirmed the specifics of the configuration; WiFi strength @ 100% (have a Cisco mesh throughout the house) and saw the device IP on the wireless router ... but it took 72 hours for it to get back to stand by mode again (steady one green light). It was slowly pulsating one green light to five light and back again to one, it looks like it was attempting to download a firmware update...this went on for 48 hours and finally it reached steady state. I re-logged in to the device and the firmware update was not completed, and it started again to pulsate for another 48 hours. Called the 800 number and they told me that they have pushed a substantial firmware update for all recently released new model and this was causing longer than usual uploading time for the firmware to be completed. I find it odd for it to take so long to do this. Finally it is in the steady state stand by mode again ... and I am not touching it. I couldn't test if it will charge or not for I haven't accepted the delivery of my Model Y yet. Prior to this I was using also a J1772 Tesla wall connector Gen 1 (non-WiFi) to charge my Mach-e without any issues since May of 2021 .... anyone with similar issue?

Did your wall connector finally update to the latests version after the 4 days of pulsating and is it solid green now? Mine is also v. 22.33.1. For the first 24 hours, the top green light keeps blinking and once in awhile it lights all of them to show the Amp setting set. Now 48 hours later, the top green light cycles between being solid and blinking.

 

[agsqwe]

That's interesting. I've not seen 6 gauge romex, usually called 6/3 NM, rated for a 60 amps. May I ask more about what you used? You may have found an important silver bullet I'd like to know more about.

It's rated for 55 and you cannot upsize for EV applications which many people don't know about. My inspector for example didn't know the difference between MC and NM...
The silver bullet may be not to care about this

 

[dafish]

Hey, we all make value decisions. Yes, I agree nobody will ever know. Does the OBC allow you to set to 45 amps?

Thanks for sharing.

-d

 

[agsqwe]

Hey, we all make value decisions. Yes, I agree nobody will ever know. Does the OBC allow you to set to 45 amps?

Thanks for sharing.

-d

You can set 45 on the car, but not on the connector though (will have to be 48)

 

[dafish]

If we're communicating correctly that's just fine. The car determines the current draw across the circuit. Yea, the EVSE told the car it "could" deliver 48 via it's pilot signal, but if you set the OBC/car down it won't. If you set it to 45 then you're close enough. 44 and you've re-established the safety margins intended.

Not exactly code compliant, but arguable safe. Luck to you! -d

 

[hookah66]

You can set 45 on the car, but not on the connector though (will have to be 48)

The amperage of the Wall Connector is adjustable read page 6 of the instruction manual:

 

[hookah66]

Did your wall connector finally update to the latests version after the 4 days of pulsating and is it solid green now? Mine is also v. 22.33.1. For the first 24 hours, the top green light keeps blinking and once in awhile it lights all of them to show the Amp setting set. Now 48 hours later, the top green light cycles between being solid and blinking.

Not really, it eventually stabilized (solid single green LED) but the software version is still 22.33.1 ... and I gave up! I tested by using a Model Y that the Tesla here in Orlando allowed me to keep overnight and it charge OK. I have a Wall Monitor app on my iPhone, and it says there is an firmware update available and it will download automatically - the version on the unit is FOUR versions behind !!!

 

[ATPMSD]

circuitry from breaker (60A)

First, I am not an electrician, but this subject has been the source of much discussion.

What you have is a violation of the electrical code. You need to reset the wall connector configuration to a 50A circuit, which will charge the car at 40A.

Code requires that for a continuous load, which EV charging is, the load cannot exceed 80% of the wire’s rating. 80% of 55A is 44A so charging at 48A exceeds this figure. You cannot use the car’s max charge setting to get around this.

Additionally, there are specific rules in the code about using a 60A circuit breaker with a 55A wire that must be followed, one of which is that the appliance connected must never be able to exceed the wire’s rating. Since the wall connector is being told it is on a 60A circuit this rule is also violated. However, if the wall connector is set to a 50A circuit, you are then in compliance. But I would still change out the breaker to 50A so down the road someone does not assume it is a 60A circuit.

The difference between charging at 44A and 40A is minimal, so I suggest you comply with the code. Your call, of course.

 

[hookah66]

First, I am not an electrician, but this subject has been the source of much discussion.

What you have is a violation of the electrical code. You need to reset the wall connector configuration to a 50A circuit, which will charge the car at 40A.

Code requires that for a continuous load, which EV charging is, the load cannot exceed 80% of the wire’s rating. 80% of 55A is 44A so charging at 48A exceeds this figure. You cannot use the car’s max charge setting to get around this.

Additionally, there are specific rules in the code about using a 60A circuit breaker with a 55A wire that must be followed, one of which is that the appliance connected must never be able to exceed the wire’s rating. Since the wall connector is being told it is on a 60A circuit this rule is also violated. However, if the wall connector is set to a 50A circuit, you are then in compliance. But I would still change out the breaker to 50A so down the road someone does not assume it is a 60A circuit.

The difference between charging at 44A and 40A is minimal, so I suggest you comply with the code. Your call, of course.

My bad ... the current is set for max 40A for a 50A circuit breaker. No need to worry !!! My question is shall I also set 40A max from car side? Or the EVSE will restrict the max current to 40A?

PS: I guess I answered my own question, I did purposely toggle 40A from car side, and it stopped charging. No fault but steady blue light. Re-toggle back 40A ... but still blue steady light. Shut off and on again at breaker and started to charge again, pulsating green light. Experimented with a Model Y loaner that my local Tesla allowed my to keep overnight.

Gave up on the firmware update for the wall connector, the LED is now at steady solid green.

 

[agsqwe]

The amperage of the Wall Connector is adjustable read page 6 of the instruction manual:

Sure, the discussion was about NEC limit of 55A for 6AWG NM and 80% for continuous load totaling 44A allowed. You can't set 44A on the wall connector but you can set 48A and 44A on the car itself.
Not saying it's legal or recommended, just that it's possible technically.

 

[zoomer0056]

First, I am not an electrician, but this subject has been the source of much discussion.

What you have is a violation of the electrical code. You need to reset the wall connector configuration to a 50A circuit, which will charge the car at 40A.

Code requires that for a continuous load, which EV charging is, the load cannot exceed 80% of the wire’s rating. 80% of 55A is 44A so charging at 48A exceeds this figure. You cannot use the car’s max charge setting to get around this.

Additionally, there are specific rules in the code about using a 60A circuit breaker with a 55A wire that must be followed, one of which is that the appliance connected must never be able to exceed the wire’s rating. Since the wall connector is being told it is on a 60A circuit this rule is also violated. However, if the wall connector is set to a 50A circuit, you are then in compliance. But I would still change out the breaker to 50A so down the road someone does not assume it is a 60A circuit.

The difference between charging at 44A and 40A is minimal, so I suggest you comply with the code. Your call, of course.

Yes, I agree. Continuous load of 48 amps is a problem. Code is for safety, change to a 50amp breaker for romex and dial the amperage down. Also get the better breaker. Sorry I don't remember the brand to get. I used THHN with 60 amp breaker and all seemed good. Until I went to check why my other house breakers kept tripping. Ha, and scary ... the 60 amp breaker failed and was melted, it fell apart in myhand. I don't remember that brand either. Continuous EV load during charging is a stresser on equipment. I've replaced the breaker and have been watching it like a hawk. So far so good, we'll see how it works in hot summer months. It's another data point to keep SOC close to where you like it to avoid longer continuous loads.

 

[dafish]

Zoomer:

Here's what' probably happening. (Please don't shoot the messenger. Also, please note I was trying to be gentle to the poster using 6/3 romex and still suggest it was a no-no).

Now,THHN: Some folks don't know to check temperature ratings. To get that right you must start at the breaker and ensure it meets or exceeds the requirement of the wiring you use. Same for the temination equipment. So if you used THHN at 75c and used a 60C circuit breaker, even at the correct amperage, you will melt the breaker. The breaker builds heat and uses the wire to dissipate it. Read it this way:

"A circuit breaker or termination equipment must meet or exceed the temperature rating used for my wiring install.

Most folks who use THHN (and know they had to install it in conduit, BTW), did so to run it at the higher temps. Most don't ensure the termination equipment is up to snuff.

Now hey: I could easily be wrong, and I ain't judging anyway. But you might want to pull your breaker and see if it's rated for the temp you're allocated that wire to run at. Lets just hope you didn't spec it at 90C as breakers at that temp might be hard to find.

Luck to you either way, and of course I hope I'm wrong.

-d

 

[Sun0510]

HI, Wall connector is not showing up in tesla app. mine is gen3 . Any ideas to add it to tesla app.

 

[ATPMSD]

HI, Wall connector is not showing up in tesla app. mine is gen3 . Any ideas to add it to tesla app.

This is Normal, the Wall Connector does not appear app. While it can be added to the app in some countries, this option is not available in the US, yet.

 

[bin01123]

Zoomer:

Here's what' probably happening. (Please don't shoot the messenger. Also, please note I was trying to be gentle to the poster using 6/3 romex and still suggest it was a no-no).

Now,THHN: Some folks don't know to check temperature ratings. To get that right you must start at the breaker and ensure it meets or exceeds the requirement of the wiring you use. Same for the temination equipment. So if you used THHN at 75c and used a 60C circuit breaker, even at the correct amperage, you will melt the breaker. The breaker builds heat and uses the wire to dissipate it. Read it this way:

"A circuit breaker or termination equipment must meet or exceed the temperature rating used for my wiring install.

Most folks who use THHN (and know they had to install it in conduit, BTW), did so to run it at the higher temps. Most don't ensure the termination equipment is up to snuff.

Now hey: I could easily be wrong, and I ain't judging anyway. But you might want to pull your breaker and see if it's rated for the temp you're allocated that wire to run at. Lets just hope you didn't spec it at 90C as breakers at that temp might be hard to find.

Luck to you either way, and of course I hope I'm wrong.

-d

I think you are right on the money with the temperature rating. I ran THHN cable as well but installed a Eaton 60amp breaker. Just found out the rating is at 40c.

If they make breakers with temp rating’s equal to the wires, where in the world can you find them?

 

[dafish]

You’re seeing the ambient temp rating. 40c is the standard. You want the Breakers wire rating. Should be stamped into the side of the breaker. The image I saw of a br260 showed 65/75c just a few spaces after the 40c.

BR260 - Eaton Cutler-Hammer 60 Amp Double Pole Circuit Breaker

Purchase Eaton Cutler-Hammer BR260 Plug-In Circuit Breakers at SimplyBreakers.com. 1-year warranty included. Free shipping. Pay with interest-free installments.

www.simplybreakers.com

 

[bin01123]

Newbie here as I just installed my wall connector late January and got my first Tesla at the same time as well.

Makes sense and thank you. Main reason I started to look into this is because I noticed the wires would get warm (not hot) when running for a while when I’m charging at 48V. They get up to 88 degrees F when I took my reading from outside the wire.

But this sounds like the confirmation I needed.