Been doing a lot of reading and youtubing. Decided I'm going to DIY the install. I think I've got everything lined up except for the wall connector "gland". I'm going to be coming in from the back of the wall connector. The instructions state to drill out one of the back holes to 1-1/8" in diameter. Do I need to put a cable clamp or some gland on this opening to retain the wire? If so what have you guys used or recommend.
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Wall Connector install for rear entry - question
- Thread starter Beans4Me
- Start date
The Romex would use a fitting that clamps the outer casing. I don't know about the SER, whether it also needs a bushing (like the small red plastic insert that goes inside the end of armored cable, may be used on MC too.)
fiehlsport
Tire Guy
I don't believe 4/2 exists, unfortunately.
6/2 Romex + 50A breaker, and set the wall connector to 40A is another option.
6/2 Romex + 50A breaker, and set the wall connector to 40A is another option.
ATPMSD
Active Member
In this case you would set the Wall Connector to 50A circuit and it will charge at 40A.
#6 THW/THWN wire would be better as it is rated at 75A as this will give you the full 48A charging rate. THW/THWN must be in a conduit, or you could use #6 MC.
gtae07
Member
I was only able to find 4/3. Very expensive (it was $7/foot, which isn't bad, but the minimum order quantity was 15ft). I only had a 5ft run from the panel so it was easier than running conduit. I now have about 6-7 feet or so left...
I'm going to be putting in a 100a subpanel in my garage fed by SER 1-1-1-3. The subpanel will be on the shared wall between my house/garage. From that panel I'll run wire in the wall up to the roof rafters and over to the front garage wall where the garage doors are. I think it'll be about 30-40ft to get to the front wall. I'm planning on wiring 2, one on each side of the large door and then load sharing to avoid overloading the subpanel. Both my basement and garage are unfinished with the exception of the shared wall.
I elected for a subpanel because I need some disconnect in the garage and it'll allow me to put a few 120 circuits for the garage as well.
I elected for a subpanel because I need some disconnect in the garage and it'll allow me to put a few 120 circuits for the garage as well.
If the shared wall between the house and the garage is concrete block or block with brick (on the outside) I don't believe you can run MC inside the hollow cavity space of the concreet block. You could run MC exposed within the garage as long as the MC was not run where it could be damaged. (Straight up from the sub panel, across the rafters and down to the Wall Connector(s) should be OK.)
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The shared wall is a traditional wood framed construction with insulation and sheet rock on both sides. There is concrete block at the base where my basement wall comes up and also around the perimeter of the garage where the bottom plate sits on. The subpanel will be 2 stud bays from the "shared' portion so that I'm in the garage wall cavity that is unfinished. From there I have access to go up, over, and back down to the other side relatively easy. We'll see how well I can work with the 4/3 wire.
6/2 MC might be less expensive, easier to find that 4/3 NM (Romex).
Working With Metal-Clad (MC) Cable
Wiring With MC – WHAT YOU CAN AND CAN’T DO WITH MC CABLE – Electrician U – Training for Electricians, by Electricians
Working With Metal-Clad (MC) Cable
Wiring With MC – WHAT YOU CAN AND CAN’T DO WITH MC CABLE – Electrician U – Training for Electricians, by Electricians
Eric33432
Member
You're probably done, for for any furture inquiries, this is what you need. I don't know why people always feel the need to veer the conversation off in ridiculous directions. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B092ZMRW55/ref=ewc_pr_img_1?smid=A18L5LPSC0VQXQ&th=1
Eric33432
Member
You did the correct thing. Having the wires enter at the rear of the Tesla Wall Connector, with all the wiring concealed, is a nice installation, albeit more difficult. Just use whatever clamp or fitting you would use based on the wiring method. I think some people just run the wire into the wall connector without any clamp or fitting, which should be avoided, and is a violation of the National Electric Code.
For example, a 3/4 inch locknut would be used on a 3/4 inch male terminal adaptor for PVC conduit, which also, I think, makes for a very clean looking installation. But I think it is easier to install from the top or bottom of the wall connector than if entering the Wall Connector from its rear.
Here is an example of both concealed and exposed wiring. In this example, I used 3/4 inch non-metallic (sealtite) flexible conduit, and #6 (#10 for ground) THHN/THWN CU wire on a 60 amp breaker from the breaker panel into the Generac device, which has a 100 amp rated contactor inside it to shed the load when I am operating on my generator (but only if the generator is overloaded). I had to cut out, and replace, some of the sheet rock to get the sealtite up and into the breaker panel. But going into the Wall Connector through its back would have been very difficult with conduit. While some people might not like the exposed conduit, I think in a garage setting it makes for a very clean looking installation.
If you want, you can post a photo of your installation on this thread:
Post your Garage charging setup! (pictures, Wall Connector, multi-EV)
Ya
Ya my goal was to keep everything in the walls to keep it clean. I will likely close up my garage walls now. I prefer not having conduit in my garage. I do understand there are many advantages to using conduit though.
Ya my goal was to keep everything in the walls to keep it clean. I will likely close up my garage walls now. I prefer not having conduit in my garage. I do understand there are many advantages to using conduit though.
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