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What equipment do people recommend to change tires at home?

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But that's what I'm struggling with... If I use a jack on the right rear lift point and raise the right side of the car, how can I place a jack stand under the right rear lift point? The jack is in the way.

Don't do it. Forget the jack stands.

Jack up the left side at the rear lift point - check the manual for the exact position so you don't damage (aka destroy) the car. There is a sticker under the car to mark the spot.

Don't bother with the front jacking point. When you use the rear jack point BOTH of the wheels on that side will lift off the ground. Change both wheels, then lower the car and repeat on the other side.
 
But that's what I'm struggling with... If I use a jack on the right rear lift point and raise the right side of the car, how can I place a jack stand under the right rear lift point? The jack is in the way.
Try this
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You probably don't need a torque wrench to 250 ft lbs as they are typically less accurate on the low end of their capacity. Most cars are under 100 ft lbs, usually around 70-85 ft lbs. might be better to get one up to 150 ft lbs or so, unless you need the extra settings for something else
 

You probably don't need a torque wrench to 250 ft lbs as they are typically less accurate on the low end of their capacity. Most cars are under 100 ft lbs, usually around 70-85 ft lbs. might be better to get one up to 150 ft lbs or so, unless you need the extra settings for something else

Thanks. Always ask the experts I say, I appreciate it.

This one says up to 200 Newton Meters so looks like a winner
CDI Torque 2003NMRMHSS 1/2-Inch Drive Adjustable Micrometer Newton Meter Torque Wrench - Amazon.com

Is the socket set I would need metric or SAE? I found this
Amazon.com: Stanley 97-126 11 Piece 1/2-Inch Drive Metric Deep Impact Socket Set: Home Improvement
 
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I've got this torque wrench: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FMO6HG/ref=wms_ohs_product. It's 3/8" drive (100ft-lbs), which is fine for Roadster, but for Model S's higher torque you'll want the 1/2" drive version: http://www.amazon.com/TORQ-SPLIT-BEAM-CLICK-STYLE-250FT/dp/B00063XG52/ that can handle up to 250ft-lbs.

Made in the US, split-torque type, so you don't need to turn it down when not in use (you do know that normal torque wrenches should be turned to zero when not in use, right?), and 4% accuracy.

As for sockets, I wouldn't recommend an impact set. Those have thicker walls and in my experience looser tolerances. The thicker walls mean you can't use them on normal car lug nuts, or in other situations you're likely to encounter, so if you have other cars you might want to look for a regular set. For Roadster, it doesn't matter as the spline and lock adapters stick out from the wheel enough. A US made 1/2" 17mm socket can be gotten for $10.50: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004WBNG/ref=gno_cart_title_1 and maybe cheaper locally.

Finally, for jacks, well, there's no really good answer. Everything under $500 is made overseas. The castings and such are usually fine, even impressive on most, but the achilles heel are the valves and valve seals. For Roadster, you need a semi-low profile jack. A 4.25" minimum height works just fine (modulo hockey puck addition and loss of height if you've got a completely flat tire). If you're content to use the rear jacking point for both tires then it doesn't need to be a deep reach version. I got this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007XQN56/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Despite what they say, it's not a racing jack - it's not particularly light and takes more than a few strokes to lift all the way up. It's also not particularly low profile - but it's more than low enough for Roadster (and just almost deep enough to reach the front jack point - almost) it's rated at 3 Tons, it's not as heavy as most 3 Ton jacks, and the price isn't as high as the the all-aluminum ones. It's low-profile enough that I was able to replace the thin stock pad with a hockey puck and still fits under Roadster:

JackOnly.jpg

CarJacked.jpg
 
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OK, can someone tell me how these things work?

Roadster_Rear_Lift_Adapter_1024x1024.jpg


Use the 2-piece set during home maintenance that requires raising your Roadster up on a two-post lift.


Interesting that many Lotuses have 4 pairs of jacking points, not just the 2 we know about on the Roadster (labeled A and B in the drawing below). Are there additional jacking points at the rear of the Roadster if you remove the lower rear cover?

150-JackingPoints.jpg
 
If you are going to do this at home - and I highly recommend it - make sure you follow THIS procedure:

1. Loosen - do not remove - each tire's lugnuts BEFORE jacking up. It is poor practice to be cranking on a nut when the car is on the lift.

2. Lift the vehicle only so there is a bare minimum of clearance between the tire and the ground. Keep your legs out from under the vehicle - a position it's tempting to be in esp. when emplacing the new tire.

3. Place lugnuts back on lugs ONLY finger-tight or so while the tire is in the air.

4. Lower the vehicle and THEN tighten them with your torque wrench. Do NOT use an impact hammer, ever, to tighten lugnuts - not even if it is a so-called torque hammer.

5. Tighten the lugnuts in opposing fashion (5 lugs on these, right? Then go 1 - 4 - 2 - 5 - 3, starting at any point as #1).

"Copper paste" was mentioned. I use one of any number of anti-seize compounds (that's what they're called in the US), but keep that amount to an absolute thin-film minimum, and KEEP IT OFF those lugs! You do not want any of it in the threads, ONLY on the wheel rim where it will face the plate.
 
OK, can someone tell me how these things work?

View attachment 19130




Interesting that many Lotuses have 4 pairs of jacking points, not just the 2 we know about on the Roadster (labeled A and B in the drawing below). Are there additional jacking points at the rear of the Roadster if you remove the lower rear cover?

View attachment 19131

If you want more info on how these work PM me and tell you how.
 
I'm getting my wheels powder coated, so I needed to put the Roadster on jack stands while the wheels are being done. Since I didn't want to dump the car on its butt, I didn't put the back on stands. I purchased two cheap steel wheels ('08 Chevy Malibu compatible; 16x5.5-110) and got two worn out take-off tires to fit them from my nephew who is a mechanic. These steel wheels are 16", but the tires I got are 60 series so it is a close enough match for the 17" rears on circumference. I put these junk tires on the back, and put the front of the car on jack stands. The wheels fit up perfectly on the Roadster and look absolutely hideous!:eek: