I was using low braking.
Why shoudnt i use teslafi? My car always sleeps.
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What is your real range?
- Thread starter Plombir
- Start date
These numbers look odd to me. Maybe because you're averaging under 5 miles each trip, and the car is starting cold each time, and not warming up much in those 5 miles. I bet if the trips were 10-15 miles a piece, your efficiency numbers would look a lot better.
My dual motor is in the 250s lifetime, and I drive it like a rental a lot of the time.
G26okie
2020 P3D-
OP is using his car to deliver pizza, or as an Uber. 32 trips over 2 days, average trip of 3 miles at 20mph?
sorry dude, but no car is gonna make you happy...
sorry dude, but no car is gonna make you happy...
Lots of short trips. Your average trip is under 5 miles and 10 mins, in your first image. Just like a gas vehicle, short trips will hurt your efficiency. Your previous vehicles must have had horrendous mileage.
You're in florida, so are you running the AC compressor to defog the windshield? Is your sentry mode on for when you are away from home? Even if you do none of those things, the car will use more energy because of short trips, as the pumps will continue to run after you park.
13K miles on mine, 229 wh/mi "lifetime" avg. I'm very happy to have that level of efficiency, but its not by choice. My commute is 120 mi round trip, and takes 3hr+ each day of driving. That means I average out to 40MPH on any given day - which is just about the speed the EPA uses for its highway testing.
I set TACC to 80MPH and go that fast when I can, but otherwise its whatever the flow of traffic is. I keep my 18" aero covers on about 75% of the time to keep max efficiency, and tires inflated to 44PSI cold.
I set TACC to 80MPH and go that fast when I can, but otherwise its whatever the flow of traffic is. I keep my 18" aero covers on about 75% of the time to keep max efficiency, and tires inflated to 44PSI cold.
Set you regen to the higher setting. That helps a lot. The car is able to re-capture the energy rather than waste it with brake heating (plus it will save on brakes)
roblab
Active Member
So... It's not a bad battery as much as incorrect expectations. Most batteries degrade 5-10% in the first year, and deliver less than optimum range when it's cold or with freeway driving. And you have a Performance. Why did you buy performance when you want range, yet you drive like a teenager? You bought the cheap battery so you could save money, and now you complain.
Oh, well.
roblab
Active Member
And the EPA says they test range at 80 mph, in case you ever want to know.
Yes, 80MPH is the "top speed" of their "high speed" test cycle. However, the average speed for that test cycle is 48MPH. That's not sustained 80MPH driving, which is what many people do on their hwy drives.
Detailed Test Information
(click on "test details" tab for the descriptions)
But you want the car to obey EPA rating? Perhaps drive at EPA speeds. 48-60mph no more without hvac, seat heaters, windows open or music blasting.
Everyone seems to lack EPA testing methods, learn those, then you may ask questions if it is not meeting those.
Mine doesn’t. Check your sleep settings. My car goes to sleep every time after idling for a short period. There is a way around this.
My Teslafi works great. It doesn’t wake up if you have the sleep settings correct in Teslafi. Here are mine.
Attachments
I agree that you should use TeslaFI, which will tell you exactly where all your 'range' is going. If you have the correct settings, TeslaFI will NOT eat battery (I recently left my LR AWD parked for 28 days, with TeslaFI running, and I only lost 20 miles total range!)
When you do lots of short trips, your efficiency (wH/m) could be quite reasonable because it only computes usage data when the car is running, but the car will continue to eat battery whenever it is stopped it it seems to take hours to go to sleep. I find that when I do a lot of short trips, I really get only 60% efficiency based on the battery capacity (but my wH/m shows an efficiency of 75%),
When you do lots of short trips, your efficiency (wH/m) could be quite reasonable because it only computes usage data when the car is running, but the car will continue to eat battery whenever it is stopped it it seems to take hours to go to sleep. I find that when I do a lot of short trips, I really get only 60% efficiency based on the battery capacity (but my wH/m shows an efficiency of 75%),
I never recommend a Tesla to people who don't have home charging. Many people think that they can charge their car once/week at a supercharger and that will take care of all their commuting and errands for the week - but the reality is that the car looses a lot of charge between many short trips, and so your real range is only about 50% of the promised (EPA) range. You can end up spending a good part of each week at superchargers (where the charging cost approaches the cost of gas).
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
In addition, the results of this US06 test are not directly used in the EPA numbers generated by Tesla during their dyno testing in their Fremont lab.
Two-cycle testing is done by Tesla, and if advantageous to Tesla, they also run 5-cycle testing, and the results of 5-cycle testing are used to establish a scalar factor (between 0.7 and ~0.75) to scale the EPA results to the published values. For Model 3 the value used is 0.7032 or so, which means the high speed test has basically zero impact on the published range number.
So really just the city and highway cycles in your link are relevant for Model 3.
Unless they are auditing, the EPA doesn't do any testing.
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