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What's state of the art for washing a Model S at home and making it shine?
- Thread starter DCEV
- Start date
SBDPlaid
Member
After having researched claybar and nanoskin extensively, I think I've come up with a solution that I'm comfortable with.
I'm going to buy the best quality claybar I can find and then a potato peeler.
Okay, okay, just hear me out.After I use the claybar on a panel, rather than fold it, I'm just going to use a potato peeler to peel out the contaminated layer. This way I am not kneeding contaminants back into the clay and I have a fresh pristine clay layer for continuing on.
This way there is no question about how clean or contaminated the clay bar is and when I peeled away enough of the claybar, I just get a new one. With the nanoskin, it concerns me that I can never really see how contaminated that surface becomes.
SBDPlaid
Member
I’ll stick with the Nanoskin, has only done me good and is faster and without a doubt does not mar the surface like clay.
I couldnt really care less what contaminants there are, just that they’re all coming off and along with using an iron remover (chemical decontamination), the clear coat is then free of contaminants and ready for paint correction
I couldnt really care less what contaminants there are, just that they’re all coming off and along with using an iron remover (chemical decontamination), the clear coat is then free of contaminants and ready for paint correction
Which iron remover do you use? Do you apply the iron remover to get rid of contaminants after rinse and foam wash and before the nanoskin? I assume after nanoskin, you apply a layer of wax?
SBDPlaid
Member
I like Iron X from CarPro and spray it liberally all over after mechanical decon (Nanoskin or clay). You’ll see it turn any embedded metal spots purple and then you rinse off the whole car.
If there is no paint correction or polishing to do, then do an IPA wipe down to make sure the surface is ready for sealant, wax, or coating
Any reason why you would not want to get that decontamination off the paint before clay bar? Seems like if you can get rid of the contaminants and then rinse off before clay bar, why not?
SBDPlaid
Member
Mainly because the iron x will remove more after other surface contaminants are removed
I'm not comfortable taking my baby to the local car wash because I see them use the same rags on multiple cars and some roll out of the car wash still with dirt. I've yet to find a decent hand wash place in the DC area so I figured might as well learn to wash the car at home. It will take me 40 minutes to drive someplace, have them wash the car, and drive back home but I'm thinking in less time I can wash the car on my driveway!
So far what I've gathered is that the best approach is the two bucket method with something called Optimum No Rinse but they have several different types and I'm not sure what to get. Should I get the blue type or is there something else better?
I'm still looking for a paint protection file option at a reasonable cost in the DC area so the car is not protected by film so I want to safely get all the dirt off the paint and add a protective layer that is safe for the clear coat and makes the car shine.
I'm looking for a list of things to buy starting with the two buckets, microfiber, proper washing mits, etc., so please share your advice, recommendations, and your favorite videos! Also looking for a quality interior cleaner for the dashboard and a good quality leather cleaner and conditioner. I'll post a photo of the washed car after all the advice
Meguiar's G17516 Ultimate Quik Wax is a spray mist on wax/cleaner that works very well. Used it for a year now. You'll need to buy a few microfiber towels. If the car is very dirty just hose it off first. You'll need to change towels as they become soiled to prevent scratching or a film on the surface. It works well on the finish and glass. Be sure to wash the towels in the washer after each use. Cost about $9
I actually keep a spray bottle of Meguire's Quick Detailer in the car for spot treating bird poop and such and it works so well! Also when traveling, a few quick sprays on the front and all the bug stuff comes right off.
I agree the dryer is not what's hard on high quality micro fiber. It's the type of detergent you use and using fabric softener. But cheap micro fiber ... well that I wouldn't make any bets on.
israndy
Supercharger Hunter
I went to the store to get another bottle of Turtle Wax's Wax & Dry. There I discovered a new class of wax replacement products.
Simply clean the car (polish the car) and then when the car is wet spritz one panel of the car with these products and then hose off liberally. The hose spreads the sealant smoothly around. Don't put on too much or it will spot. Hose it off quickly before it can dry or it will spot. Protects the paint and keeps it beading so water and dirt roll off the car for 6 months.
Some examples were 303 Touchless Sealant, Turtle Wax Sealant, Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax
Has anyone tried these? Sounds much easier and more competent than what I have done in the past.
-Randy
Simply clean the car (polish the car) and then when the car is wet spritz one panel of the car with these products and then hose off liberally. The hose spreads the sealant smoothly around. Don't put on too much or it will spot. Hose it off quickly before it can dry or it will spot. Protects the paint and keeps it beading so water and dirt roll off the car for 6 months.
Some examples were 303 Touchless Sealant, Turtle Wax Sealant, Meguiar's Hybrid Ceramic Wax
Has anyone tried these? Sounds much easier and more competent than what I have done in the past.
-Randy
SBDPlaid
Member
I’ve never had luck with the spray and wash sealants, they’ve all spotted and I’ve then spent more time going over the whole car to remove the blotching than I would have if I had done a spray on sealant to begin with
The current best in my book is BeadMaker
A6: P&S Bead Maker Paint Protectant
The current best in my book is BeadMaker
A6: P&S Bead Maker Paint Protectant
Anyone have any recommendations for the best best clay to use on glass?
Is pretty much any good quality paint clay good for glass?
Also as a clay lubricant is ONR sufficient? Some of the specialized clay lubes are super expensive and I'd rather not waste money if ONR does just as of a good job.
Is pretty much any good quality paint clay good for glass?
Also as a clay lubricant is ONR sufficient? Some of the specialized clay lubes are super expensive and I'd rather not waste money if ONR does just as of a good job.
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