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What's the best Model S refresh front fascia option

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Also just FYI your old parts surprisingly tend to cost more than the new ones. The ankle catcher is around $75-$100, brackets $50-$75, louvers sell for around $200/each on eBay and other parts like your bumper, nosecone can all vary based an quality and condition. The skid plate I think they call it should get you around $100-$150 on eBay maybe more plus the place guard should also get you around $50-$100 as it costs $150 I believe.
So you can easily recoup a lot of the money spent selling your old parts. Just FYI
Thank you for this..
 
I am almost done with my conversion! Check it out.

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The installation on a scale of 1-10 was about a 7 for me. Mostly because I did it by myself and have never really done anything like this before. The sensor wires were a little bit of a pain to reroute and cut but it worked out in the long run. I cut the t badge support around the homelink (I think) and the 12 volt jumper terminal on the other side. I wrapped the v bar assembly before hand and it came out good, I'm glad I did. I did buy new louvres with new black spears as well. I just wanted to make the process easier for me and I can always resell the old ones and recoup some money there. I added a black mesh lower grill and hopefully the autopilot will still be fine. I haven't tested it yet.

I have the gap filler from Charles and wrapped it the same as the v bar, thanks Charles, but I might not use it. I am thinking about buying the front apron assembly from the refresh model Part # 1060474-00 to help fill the gap better and make it all look more OEM. Then maybe adding a piece of weather stripping to help seal it better. Not really sure what I'm going to do yet. I still have to cut the back of the T logo and add that. Just painting it red now. As for the fitment issues, I don't really see any. Maybe someone else will see something.

Please chime in with thoughts or ideas. Need to do the chrome delete now over the rest of the car now too.

Thanks to EVERYONE on this board for your help. Especially tyler2323, nick70d and wnix05 who I bombarded with questions before hand and never once told me to go f*ck off.
 
I am almost done with my conversion! Check it out.

View attachment 538299 View attachment 538300

The installation on a scale of 1-10 was about a 7 for me. Mostly because I did it by myself and have never really done anything like this before. The sensor wires were a little bit of a pain to reroute and cut but it worked out in the long run. I cut the t badge support around the homelink (I think) and the 12 volt jumper terminal on the other side. I wrapped the v bar assembly before hand and it came out good, I'm glad I did. I did buy new louvres with new black spears as well. I just wanted to make the process easier for me and I can always resell the old ones and recoup some money there. I added a black mesh lower grill and hopefully the autopilot will still be fine. I haven't tested it yet.

I have the gap filler from Charles and wrapped it the same as the v bar, thanks Charles, but I might not use it. I am thinking about buying the front apron assembly from the refresh model Part # 1060474-00 to help fill the gap better and make it all look more OEM. Then maybe adding a piece of weather stripping to help seal it better. Not really sure what I'm going to do yet. I still have to cut the back of the T logo and add that. Just painting it red now. As for the fitment issues, I don't really see any. Maybe someone else will see something.

Please chime in with thoughts or ideas. Need to do the chrome delete now over the rest of the car now too.

Thanks to EVERYONE on this board for your help. Especially tyler2323, nick70d and wnix05 who I bombarded with questions before hand and never once told me to go f*ck off.
Super dope... congrats. So...we DO need to cut the T? I thought it was only for model x badge? Can't pick up my ankle catcher until tomorrow
 
I am almost done with my conversion! Check it out.

View attachment 538299 View attachment 538300

The installation on a scale of 1-10 was about a 7 for me. Mostly because I did it by myself and have never really done anything like this before. The sensor wires were a little bit of a pain to reroute and cut but it worked out in the long run. I cut the t badge support around the homelink (I think) and the 12 volt jumper terminal on the other side. I wrapped the v bar assembly before hand and it came out good, I'm glad I did. I did buy new louvres with new black spears as well. I just wanted to make the process easier for me and I can always resell the old ones and recoup some money there. I added a black mesh lower grill and hopefully the autopilot will still be fine. I haven't tested it yet.

I have the gap filler from Charles and wrapped it the same as the v bar, thanks Charles, but I might not use it. I am thinking about buying the front apron assembly from the refresh model Part # 1060474-00 to help fill the gap better and make it all look more OEM. Then maybe adding a piece of weather stripping to help seal it better. Not really sure what I'm going to do yet. I still have to cut the back of the T logo and add that. Just painting it red now. As for the fitment issues, I don't really see any. Maybe someone else will see something.

Please chime in with thoughts or ideas. Need to do the chrome delete now over the rest of the car now too.

Thanks to EVERYONE on this board for your help. Especially tyler2323, nick70d and wnix05 who I bombarded with questions before hand and never once told me to go f*ck off.
That looks great Frank. The gap is minimal I don’t see any need for a gap filler. If you purchase the oem part for the v-stripe it should cover any space. If there is still some it will be minimal. Lmk if you’re able to get that. It’s actually a parts that’s restricted and only Certified shops can get it I believe. I Can get a chrome one for around $60 and than paint it. Please text me what you find out. No need for an x badge either I don’t think. If you already have one than use it or if u have both compare before cutting. And yes always wait to cut once you have finished and can determine exactly what is needed to cut tonhave it sit perfectly like it would using a facelift hood. Told you it wouldn’t be too difficult or time consuming. I think too often members can get discouraged by others accounts that are not indicative of the degree of difficulty or time. Obviously having the ability to plan ahead and talk to go over troubleshooting etc helps but you nailed it
 
Here’s one I with all oem parts so more expensive. I prefer the mesh grill as it hides the Autopilot but some owners like it to be as oem as possible. Will be adjusting the latch the allow the gap to be even smaller. Using an X badge for now until I minimize the gap than will decide if I will use the S badge
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S badge has the red wrap. The X badge is not permanent I just had one lying around that will be replaced with another X badge. As far as cutting you really can cut however you like. You have 3 mounting holes to use and you only need 1 from the back if not using the top 2. Or just the 2 on top if not using the back hole.
Also just as cutting the t badge will trick the eye from noticing the underbite so will wrapping the chrome v stripe. I will be wrapping this one black and it will hide that from most even ocd freaks like myself. But not completely lol
 
That looks great Frank. The gap is minimal I don’t see any need for a gap filler. If you purchase the oem part for the v-stripe it should cover any space. If there is still some it will be minimal. Lmk if you’re able to get that. It’s actually a parts that’s restricted and only Certified shops can get it I believe. I Can get a chrome one for around $60 and than paint it. Please text me what you find out. No need for an x badge either I don’t think. If you already have one than use it or if u have both compare before cutting. And yes always wait to cut once you have finished and can determine exactly what is needed to cut tonhave it sit perfectly like it would using a facelift hood. Told you it wouldn’t be too difficult or time consuming. I think too often members can get discouraged by others accounts that are not indicative of the degree of difficulty or time. Obviously having the ability to plan ahead and talk to go over troubleshooting etc helps but you nailed it


What is the "oem part for the v-stripe" your talking about?
 
What is the "oem part for the v-stripe" your talking about?
The plastic covering that goes over it. If using that I cannot break in like I did in that video. I thought that’s what you were talking about getting.

You can also stretch the t support. Just heat it and stuff almost anything inside that will put pressure on it to stretch. Like this but use a few and they will get smaller as you get towards the end. Wrap tape around it for a day or two and than use larger ones until it’s stretches enough. You will just need 3-6 depending on how long they are. Don’t try to over stretch it at first. But after a few days it will street enough to leave no gap

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wow it looks great. as I am reading through the forum I just seen someone mention the ankle catcher. what is it used for after watching the video another member had posted he didn't mention it. I have gotten the bumper I just need to get the parts needed to make the switch.
 
The plastic covering that goes over it. If using that I cannot break in like I did in that video. I thought that’s what you were talking about getting.

Yes. OK, I wasn't sure we were talking about the same thing.

Front Apron Assembly MS2 1060474-00-D

Yes, I got it a couple weeks back. I bought it on ebay for about $75, since I wasn't hearing back from Tesla since they were closed. Anyway, yeah I think I will use this piece.

Good to see you still on the board by the way!
 
wow it looks great. as I am reading through the forum I just seen someone mention the ankle catcher. what is it used for after watching the video another member had posted he didn't mention it. I have gotten the bumper I just need to get the parts needed to make the switch.


Some people did not use/change the ankle catcher. I did change it on mine. It absolutely helped the bumper fit better and minimize gaps.
 
Anyone have any tips and/or measurements to assist when trimming bumper for use with old louvers? How were they mounted to new bumper if the bracket was trimmed away? Have all my parts, now just waiting on a decent weekend day since I'm still working :(