Whats the largest Power Inverter you can use in a Tesla?

[Zuikkis]

They are in Finland. 230V is a single phase and will be necessary to run all the equipment in the trailer.

I was thinking of something more like the Ecoflow Delta 2, or the Bluetti AC200MAX. A battery, charger, and inverter all rolled in to one, without having to do any the integration work or find the room for all that equipment. Those two will charge from multiple sources at once, so they could even have solar panels added while still drawing 100W from the car if needed. Both are also made in 230V EU versions. There are bigger units available if you want more backup time or to run a larger cooker than 1500W as well.

Ecoflow Delta 2 seems to be only 999€ and is easily available in all stores here. That does indeed sound like a very good choice, and very useful for many other purposes as well to be used instead of gasoline generator etc.

1800W constant output, 2700W peak. Only 1kWh battery but can be extended if needed, and actually I think 1kWh is quite enough.

Only downsides: max 10A charging from 12V, and also 12V input shares connector with solar panel input so can't hook up both. But solar panels might be a waste of money anyway, can't fit that many to the trailer and a few kwh per day seems useless when there's an EV parked next to it..

Edit: custom setup as suggested by @n2mb_racing is not of the question. In fact I have a 23kWh home battery ("powerwall") built from an old Think City lithium pack, hooked up to Deye grid-tied inverter. I built the BMS and all controlling electronics myself, around a Raspberry Pi.. So a complex setup is not an issue. But in trailer you want everything to be light and small, so Ecoflow Delta 2 does sound tempting for the money.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Ecoflow Delta 2 seems to be only 999€ and is easily available in all stores here. That does indeed sound like a very good choice, and very useful for many other purposes as well to be used instead of gasoline generator etc.

1800W constant output, 2700W peak. Only 1kWh battery but can be extended if needed, and actually I think 1kWh is quite enough.

Only downsides: max 10A charging from 12V, and also 12V input shares connector with solar panel input so can't hook up both. But solar panels might be a waste of money anyway, can't fit that many to the trailer and a few kwh per day seems useless when there's an EV parked next to it..

Edit: custom setup as suggested by @n2mb_racing is not of the question. In fact I have a 23kWh home battery ("powerwall") built from an old Think City lithium pack, hooked up to Deye grid-tied inverter. I built the BMS and all controlling electronics myself, around a Raspberry Pi.. So a complex setup is not an issue. But in trailer you want everything to be light and small, so Ecoflow Delta 2 does sound tempting for the money.

Yup. Not bad. Nice to have everything integrated for $999

EcoFlow DELTA 2 Portable Power Station - EcoFlow

EcoFlow DELTA 2 equips modern families with backup power for any emergency. Incredibly fast charging: 0%-80% in 50 min. Be prepared, always.

us.ecoflow.com

Looks like maybe 12V 15A through the solar input?

Yeah, comparison would be 1280 whr lifepo for $299, plus another $300 for the inverter. Plus charger, etc...

 

[DarkMatter]

Yeah, comparison would be 1280 whr lifepo for $299, plus another $300 for the inverter. Plus charger, etc...

That's where I'm going. If you want a 5kWh setup you're right, the $/kWh shifts to the DIY setup. It's just the small parts that get you if you're rolling your own at lower kWh capacity. The crossover point IMO looks to be around 2kWh as there's a few good looking 1-2 kWh units available.

Also @Zuikkis take note that even though it's a 30A circuit the specified cross section area for the wire is 2.5mm2 so I would start to get wary about anything over 20A continuous. I would probably target 15A if an option, though it seems most of these small units top out at 8-10A anyway through the car input, and 15A through the solar input. It does appear most of these units support simultaneous DC+AC charging at least.

If you do want to roll your own, that diagram leaves me strongly suspecting you could treat both pins as full time power and easily hit 400W+ of charging power using perhaps two MPPT controllers to current limit the feed in to your battery with easy off the shelf hardware. Just make sure to use units that are happy running in parallel, since you're not allowed to cross-connect the two circuits on the 13-pin by spec. The one pin fused at 15A gives you 10A, the other fused at 30A gives you 20A, all is well within spec, 390W at nominal voltage.

 

[Zuikkis]

Ecoflow Delta 2 seems to have 8A max at 12V, so it's only ~100W. Apparently it has some silly detection mechanism that it detects constant 12V or 24V and allows only 8A, but if it detects variable voltage (solar panel) it allows 15A. This is because the included cigarette lighter wiring is not safe at higher current and car might have 10A fuse..

Anyway, even that might be quite enough. Also it's possible to add a relay so that trailer 12V (lights etc) come from Tesla if car is plugged in, and from Ecoflow if car is unplugged. That way Ecoflow can always charge at full 8A even if there is for example 5A of 12V consumption in the trailer.

Something like this.

Edit: Just realized this circuit has the added benefit that you can remove Ecoflow from the trailer to be used elsewhere, and trailer will still be powered from Tesla supply.

 

[DarkMatter]

That is an elegantly simple circuit. It also prevents sending all the power through DC-DC twice and turning some of it in to heat. The only power which heads through that conversion is your 240V. And I agree, it's quite likely that 100W charging will be plenty as that's 2kWh a day or so which can move in to the Ecoflow.

 

[Raiden Snake]

Ecoflow Delta 2 seems to have 8A max at 12V, so it's only ~100W. Apparently it has some silly detection mechanism that it detects constant 12V or 24V and allows only 8A, but if it detects variable voltage (solar panel) it allows 15A. This is because the included cigarette lighter wiring is not safe at higher current and car might have 10A fuse..

Anyway, even that might be quite enough. Also it's possible to add a relay so that trailer 12V (lights etc) come from Tesla if car is plugged in, and from Ecoflow if car is unplugged. That way Ecoflow can always charge at full 8A even if there is for example 5A of 12V consumption in the trailer.

Something like this.

View attachment 961575

Edit: Just realized this circuit has the added benefit that you can remove Ecoflow from the trailer to be used elsewhere, and trailer will still be powered from Tesla supply.

So what is the maximum output power supported by Tesla batteries? 3500W？

 

[DarkMatter]

So what is the maximum output power supported by Tesla batteries? 3500W？

The DC-DC has about 2kW of excess capacity. You can peak higher because there's a battery pack there as well, just not for long.

 

[Raiden Snake]

The DC-DC has about 2kW of excess capacity. You can peak higher because there's a battery pack there as well, just not for long.

Thanks for your message，seems direct link to DC-DC with a inverter is a great method.

 

[Raiden Snake]

Perhaps someone knows if the newest Model Y made in China has changed the 12V battery to a 15.5V Li-ion battery. I am aware that the maximum wattage of the old 12V battery is about 1500W. However, using a 1000W inverter could be the safest choice. But what about the maximum wattage of the 15.5V Li-ion battery? Is it also 1000W?

 

[n2mb_racing]

Perhaps someone knows if the newest Model Y made in China has changed the 12V battery to a 15.5V Li-ion battery. I am aware that the maximum wattage of the old 12V battery is about 1500W. However, using a 1000W inverter could be the safest choice. But what about the maximum wattage of the 15.5V Li-ion battery? Is it also 1000W?

Probably same. It's not the Li-ion battery that matters if you go direct to the DC/DC converter post under the rear seat. The power is coming from the large pack, through the DC/DC, which people have said is rated for about 2500W.

 

[DarkMatter]

If you're running a reasonably sized inverter (i.e. not running a house) the battery ends up being there mostly to buffer the fraction of a second sudden increases in load and sudden decreases in load without anything breaking.

 

[Raiden Snake]

Hard wire it direct to the DC to DC converter if you trying to get close to the 2500 watt threshold.

On the DC to DC Converter, Wire red "+" to the LV + red terminal and black (ground) to GND with 2 gauge insulated wire and fused with at least 100 Amps. I haven't tried it as I don't want to void my warranty - once off warranty I may give it a try. This is the picture from a 2013 December build P85. The newer models have the DC to DC converter centered behind the trunk. Also get a clean sine wave inverter for clean power.

Also do not touch anything in orange - it will be the last thing you do. I ran 12 volts to my trunk for an power outlet using the conduit that I circled below - also ran a power to the security cameras this way as well.

I like the solar panel inverter idea - would love to see the schematic.
View attachment 203638

Oh, Captain, my Captain! I would like to know if you have tried your ingenious idea on any Tesla vehicles that are no longer under warranty?

 

[lettcco]

Probably same. It's not the Li-ion battery that matters if you go direct to the DC/DC converter post under the rear seat. The power is coming from the large pack, through the DC/DC, which people have said is rated for about 2500W.

But that DC/DC converter (PCS?) is not always on, is it? If there is an extended period of car in standby (HV contacts stay open) mode, you would probably risk draining the puny 16V 6.9A Lithium LV battery. Or is the computer smart enough to wake itself up and charge the LI LV battery backup when it determines SOC is low?

 

[Raiden Snake]

I installed a 1100 watt inverter in the frunk. 150 amp fuse. Hooked to lead acid battery posts.

Hoping to gently run my inductive cook top for camping. Maybe AC on low in my camper pod in the summer.

Great！So 150 amp fuse means you design a 12V*150A=1800W, but take an 1100W inverter just for safety?

 

[Raiden Snake]

But that DC/DC converter (PCS?) is not always on, is it? If there is an extended period of car in standby (HV contacts stay open) mode, you would probably risk draining the puny 16V 6.9A Lithium LV battery. Or is the computer smart enough to wake itself up and charge the LI LV battery backup when it determines SOC is low?

Yes, your are right. Camping Mode would also disconnect the link between DC-DC and 16V 6.9A Lithium RV battery to protect the battery life due to cycles limited. And sometimes I sit on the front passenger seat for rest and there is no one on the driver's seat , after a while the DC-DC link to battery also break, but never happen when I rest on driver seat.

 

[Xenoilphobe]

Oh, Captain, my Captain! I would like to know if you have tried your ingenious idea on any Tesla vehicles that are no longer under warranty?

I never wired it and that car is gone.

 

[ResHacker]

Hi guys, over this weekend I have hooked up my 1500W pure sin Mean Well inverter on to my Tesla. Works great it's even capable of charging my mom's Zoe at 8A setting on the WB which made the inverter to run at 100% of it's power Nevertheless for such high permanent loads it's seems to be necessary to have klima in Keep on mode to keep the car and also DCDC "alive". Overall I'm very happy with the upgrade... On the photo inverter is open as I needed to ground one of the output pin to make 230V-GND output instead of default 115V-GND-115V output. Otherwise Zoe wouldn't accept it.

 

[n2mb_racing]

Hi guys, over this weekend I have hooked up my 1500W pure sin Mean Well inverter on to my Tesla. Works great it's even capable of charging my mom's Zoe at 8A setting on the WB which made the inverter to run at 100% of it's power Nevertheless for such high permanent loads it's seems to be necessary to have klima in Keep on mode to keep the car and also DCDC "alive". Overall I'm very happy with the upgrade... On the photo inverter is open as I needed to ground one of the output pin to make 230V-GND output instead of default 115V-GND-115V output. Otherwise Zoe wouldn't accept it.

Nice. Which generation S?

 

[ResHacker]

Nice. Which generation S?

Pre-face S 100D see my signature

 

[n2mb_racing]

Pre-face S 100D see my signature

Nice. Direct to the 12v battery?

Signature doesn't seem to show up on mobile.