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Wheel Bolt Pattern?

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Cottonwood,
The Tesla service rep putting on my winter wheels said: 170 Newton/meters of force. This looked to be around 50-70 pounds at 1.5 feet. Use a torque wrench or do a formal conversion if you want it right. You will need to take it in for the TPMS to be synced if you don't use them from your summer wheels.

Let's see if I can do that one without looking it up; I like dimensional analysis:

170N-m * 2.2lb/kg / 9.8N/kg (1g) * 3.3 ft/m = 126 ft-lb

I then looked the conversion up on-line:

170N-m * 0.737562149277ft-lb/N-m =125 ft-lb

which is a little higher than 70lb * 1.5 ft = 105ft-lb but not too far off.

The answer is the lug nuts should be torqued to 170N-m = 125ft-lb

Thanks!
 
Wheel specifications anyone?

Hello everyone.

I'm sitting over here in the cold Norway and waiting for my Model S and reading all these nice post @ the forum.
I wonder if anyone can tell me the wheel pattern and offset for the 21" wheels since I considering going with some different wheels than Tesla can deliver.
Someone else considered the same or did it already?

For me it's important to put my personal touch on a extremely nice car, so I also have some other things in mind;)
someone else done something "outside the box?"
 
Hello everyone.

I'm sitting over here in the cold Norway and waiting for my Model S and reading all these nice post @ the forum.
I wonder if anyone can tell me the wheel pattern and offset for the 21" wheels since I considering going with some different wheels than Tesla can deliver.
Someone else considered the same or did it already?

For me it's important to put my personal touch on a extremely nice car, so I also have some other things in mind;)
someone else done something "outside the box?"

This thread should have the specs you're looking for:
Wheel Bolt Pattern?

From my readings:

Bolt pattern: 5x120
Offset: 40mm
Centerbore: 64mm
Hub centric
 
I too am considering going with 20" wheels (prob 245/40ZR20). Any idea when the speedometer needs to be recalibrated if there is a substantial difference in revs per mile (+/- 20 or so?) with the new tires? Looks like we've got the aftermarket rim specs figured out...

As you can see on this website (it's in dutch) the difference between the standard 19 and 21" sizes is bigger than the difference between a 19" and 245-40/20".
 
I too am considering going with 20" wheels (prob 245/40ZR20). Any idea when the speedometer needs to be recalibrated if there is a substantial difference in revs per mile (+/- 20 or so?) with the new tires? Looks like we've got the aftermarket rim specs figured out...

As you can see on this website (it's in dutch) the difference between the standard 19 and 21" sizes is bigger than the difference between a 19" and 245-40/20".

You have to use the RPM from the tire manufacturer's spec sheet. Not the overall diameter.
 
> The answer is the lug nuts should be torqued to 170N-m = 125ft-lb [Cottonwood]

Maybe for a diesel pickup with steel rims(!!).

If TM does not supply an official torque figure, standard practice would indicate 75-80 ft lbs max, same as any large sedan. Bit less if anti seize is used.
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> The answer is the lug nuts should be torqued to 170N-m = 125ft-lb [Cottonwood]

Maybe for a diesel pickup with steel rims(!!).

If TM does not supply an official torque figure, standard practice would indicate 75-80 ft lbs max, same as any large sedan. Bit less if anti seize is used.
--

The local TM service center gave me the same information --- 170 Newton/Meters. My winter wheels were installed using that torque spec.
 
> The answer is the lug nuts should be torqued to 170N-m = 125ft-lb [Cottonwood]

Maybe for a diesel pickup with steel rims(!!).

If TM does not supply an official torque figure, standard practice would indicate 75-80 ft lbs max, same as any large sedan. Bit less if anti seize is used.
--

Corvette is 100 ft. lb., BMW 760 is 103

125 ft. lb. for a Model S doesn't seem out of line.
 
> 170 Newton/Meters. My winter wheels were installed using that torque spec. [NJS1207]

The modelsownersguide.pdf doesn't mention anything about wheels, so you and William13 are providing new info for us without the car. The Roadster Lug bolts take 77 ft lbs so 125 ft lbs for the ModelS is a significant jump. I would hope this is justified by increased diameter of the bolts; if not, then by a higher hardness grade. 135/180 *is* the torque spec for a Dodge 2500 diesel one ton, 8 bolts 14mm dia. S has forged rims which can take the pressure. Anything done by the TM Shop is warranted, work done by us at home not so much, esp if not to published specs. If I manage to fit my 3rd party rims (non-forged) on the S, the torque will be closely watched as the miles accrue(!!). Thanx for the data.
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>125 is correct. [Doug_G]

Got my hands on a ModelS thru the kindness of a Forum Member. :smile:

Tesla gets 125 ft lbs by virtue of using a shouldered lug nut. The rim drilling is precise to allow just enough torque on the taper with the flat shoulder taking the rest. Neat. Also 16mm studs like a one-ton pickup truck. Massive 19in rims unlikely to be found elsewhere in nature. My 17in rims unable to absorb huge calipers on ModelS. Will redrill for use on my Subaru Forester. Rather than try to steal extra S rims from the assembly line and slow down production, better to just swap snows for the all-seasons and see if they survive the winter.

Jacking feels the same as Roadster since you are jacking the entire side of Roadster. Regular Low-Pro jack & a 6in length of 2x4 is all you need. Ranger might need that big jack for his truck/trailer.
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The rim drilling is precise to allow just enough torque

Okay, terminology time (This has been bugging me for some time):

A rim is the part of the wheel that holds the tire. In older cars and in some trucks today, the spokes and hub are separate from the rim. When the spokes and hub are permanently attached to the rim, it's no longer a rim but a wheel--even though a wheel still has rim width, rim diameter, etc.
 
Okay, terminology time (This has been bugging me for some time):

A rim is the part of the wheel that holds the tire. In older cars and in some trucks today, the spokes and hub are separate from the rim. When the spokes and hub are permanently attached to the rim, it's no longer a rim but a wheel--even though a wheel still has rim width, rim diameter, etc.

Very true but I'm afraid the slang for wheels has become "rims."
 
Has anyone come-up with a "temp spare" that would work for the model "S"?

A friend has a LEAF EV w/o a spare. He found out that the Nissan Altima 2003 donut spare is compatible and takes it on long trips.

We will be taking a trip to Tahoe soon and don't want to be stranded in the area at night with a flat/torn tire. I have the rosin plug kit handy too.