Why I love my Model 3 in cold weather

[StealthP3D]

I don't mean vampire drain while parked but rather driving in bad/cold weather.

I'm not sure how that's any different than the electricity consumed to warm the cabin and keep the windshield warm enough to avoid fogging. "Vampire" drain is a much-abused term. It doesn't apply to electricity used to perform useful functions. The stereo sending power to the speakers to make music is not vampire drain and neither is the power used for cabin heating/windshield clearing functions.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

I'm not sure how that's any different than the electricity consumed to warm the cabin and keep the windshield warm enough to avoid fogging. "Vampire" drain is a much-abused term. It doesn't apply to electricity used to perform useful functions. The stereo sending power to the speakers to make music is not vampire drain and neither is the power used for cabin heating/windshield clearing functions.

@Nocturnal did not mention vampire drain in his first post, and in his second post he was not calling this drain vampire drain (reread the posts, the meaning of the second post is very clear from context).

The impact to range is pretty inconsequential; I doubt it is more than 20W going through those heating elements. I haven’t measured the consumption of the rear defroster, I should sometime to see if it is measurable to within 240W (best resolution I have...I guess I could use 120V outlet for improved resolution); I very much doubt it will be even close to 240W for rear defrost. And the camera defrost is a lot smaller obviously.

20W at 20mph average speed would be 1Wh/mi.

 

[StealthP3D]

The impact to range is pretty inconsequential, I doubt it is more than 20W going through those heating elements.

I agree it's minimal. I look at the overall efficiency and performance of the car and am very pleased with winter efficiency and convenience compared to ICE. But a few people continually focus on any measurable consumption and act like it's a national disgrace (regardless of what the overall numbers say).

I haven’t measured the consumption of the rear defroster, I should sometime to see if it is measurable to within 240W, I very much doubt it will be.

I don't know what the consumption of the rear defrost is, if I need it I turn it on, if I don't it's off. It's not really optional so I don't worry about how much it consumes because I'm going to use it if I need it and it all gets counted in the total consumption anyway. Be aware that if you try to measure consumption, it may be modulated using PWM (pulse width modulation) in which case you would need more sophisticated tools to measure consumption over time. It might draw more current initially and less as time goes on or it might draw more current in very cold weather and less if it's a foggy 45 degrees. I'm constantly surprised by the thought that went into so many functions of this car.

 

[Nocturnal]

I agree it's minimal. I look at the overall efficiency and performance of the car and am very pleased with winter efficiency and convenience compared to ICE. But a few people continually focus on any measurable consumption and act like it's a national disgrace (regardless of what the overall numbers say).

Some miss the forest for the trees. I just got back from a KC-Denver trip in pretty cold weather with snow etc. (15 degrees on the way there). Yes, when it's that cold my range does suffer so I spend more time charging. But the important bit is that I make that trip twice a year. Every week I save a trip to the gas station and get to enjoy the benefits of an EV in cold weather like you mentioned. Using heater/defrost in very cold weather seems like it costs me about 40 whms. Not a big deal. I'll trade that for being able to pre-heat my car and "fill up" from my rental cabin.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

Be aware that if you try to measure consumption, it may be modulated using PWM (pulse width modulation) in which case you would need more sophisticated tools to measure consumption over time.

Of course. I can video tape it or just use my eyes for a few minutes if I ever actually get around to this. That wouldn't show me the very fine PWM of course but in the end the average is what matters. The rear defrost isn't going to be consequential in any case so I'd only look at this if I happened to be looking at something else.

don't know what the consumption of the rear defrost is, if I need it I turn it on, if I don't it's off.

Sure. Sometimes it's nice to have hard numbers to provide certainty though (for myself and for others). For example, I know that the seat heaters use less than 100W each (it's probably less than 80W) when set to max, because I measured them. That means I really don't need to worry about whether I have them on or off if I'm trying to stretch the range at some point in time.

 

[StealthP3D]

For example, I know that the seat heaters use less than 100W each (it's probably less than 80W) when set to max, because I measured them. That means I really don't need to worry about whether I have them on or off if I'm trying to stretch the range at some point in time.

That reminds me, I have a 77 Watt, 12V electric jacket liner that I use under my motorcycle riding suit for long trips in cold weather. It even has a heated collar. That could be useful for extended trips through sub-zero temperatures if the point was to maximize range. Of course, I have no intention of ever taking such a trip anyway .

I just thought I would throw that out there for those who might not be aware that such things exist. Even when riding at 40 degrees I have to modulate the power with a PWM controller or I will cook in there!

 

[StealthP3D]

I meant: I do not have the problem where I end up with snow and ice jammed into my front bumper because I live in San Diego. That situation is strictly speaking a “problem”, but it may have limited or no consequences.

During very cold weather it might even be beneficial for the front air dam to be plugged up. That's why I was wondering why it was being defrosted.

As to 12V clothing, you can even get heated insoles (only 17 watts) and socks for maximum range extension:
Heated Socks & Electric Insoles - RevZilla

 

[Magnets!]

I recall reading that the seat heaters are 40 watts each...I assume this is maximum draw.

 

[StealthP3D]

I recall reading that the seat heaters are 40 watts each...I assume this is maximum draw.

That sounds about right, maybe a bit more on "High" (three bacon strips). Even though the seat heat feels more evenly distributed than other cars I've had with heated seats, I can only leave it on High for a few minutes. They don't feel like they are starting to burn like some seats, I just get too warm overall.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

That sounds about right, maybe a bit more on "High" (three bacon strips). Even though the seat heat feels more evenly distributed than other cars I've had with heated seats, I can only leave it on High for a few minutes. They don't feel like they are starting to burn like some seats, I just get too warm overall.

The heated seats are really, really good, as far as I am concerned.

They are way, way better than my Spark EV heated seats. The Tesla coverage is full, and the heat is ample. They are also somewhat better than my Toyota Highlander heated seats in terms of heat output.

 

[Aellinsar]

The heated seats are really, really good, as far as I am concerned.

They are way, way better than my Spark EV heated seats. The Tesla coverage is full, and the heat is ample. They are also somewhat better than my Toyota Highlander heated seats in terms of heat output.

They are far better than our Acura RDX. The Acura seems to cycle on and off rather than a constant heat, and even on "Hi" they do not get nearly as warm as the Model 3.

 

[BvueTess]

Great if you can get into the car.
Seattle has had off and on freezing weather for two months. On at least two occassions the door handles were frozen. Once thawed to the point of motion the drivers door opened but window did not drop, thus difficult to re-close the door with glass outside the trim. On my latest i was able to use a plastic tool to pull in on the glass and then close but not fully latch the door - temp was about 27 degrees but must have had hi humidity (freezing Fog) . She complained the first mile i was able to stop, open and properly close driver door. After 40 minute drive to appointment, rear door was still frozen and had to lift computer and bag over the seat to meet with client.
After first event the first of December a 'software' fix obviously did not fix the handle or window.
Skiing tomorrow - hope i can get in and home!

 

[StealthP3D]

Great if you can get into the car.
Seattle has had off and on freezing weather for two months. On at least two occassions the door handles were frozen. Once thawed to the point of motion the drivers door opened but window did not drop, thus difficult to re-close the door with glass outside the trim. On my latest i was able to use a plastic tool to pull in on the glass and then close but not fully latch the door - temp was about 27 degrees but must have had hi humidity (freezing Fog) . She complained the first mile i was able to stop, open and properly close driver door. After 40 minute drive to appointment, rear door was still frozen and had to lift computer and bag over the seat to meet with client.
After first event the first of December a 'software' fix obviously did not fix the handle or window.
Skiing tomorrow - hope i can get in and home!

I've been skiing this winter exclusively in my Model 3 and have seen some pretty extreme wetness followed by hard freezes. The car has been great. Here's how you deal with it:

Driving Slate on Twitter

I know in that video his door isn't very frozen but I can confirm it works on really bad ice encrustation. I've been doing this on all my cars for years and the Model 3 has actually been a bit better than average. If the window is really frozen tight, take your closed fist and hit the heel of your hand sharply along the base of the window multiple times in quick succession, it only takes about 3 seconds. Don't be shy, you're not going to hurt it by hitting at the base (right where the glass disappears into the door). You do this with the door closed so the glass is still supported by the window seals.

Here's how not to pussy-foot around (make sure the volume is on, it's hilarious the way he makes a mountain out of a molehill):