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Wireless front parking camera with monitor for front bumper protection

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White P85 and I are about to finalize cost for the camera switch. Although the development costs have to be factored in I'm guessing it will be under $200. Once we have a final cost (in a few days) I'll post a pre-production reservation list for anyone who's seriously interested in this mod.

Keep me informed. Hopefully, there will be instructions on installation. Otherwise, you will have to make a trip out to Hawaii to visit us.
 
I will absolutely buy a kit...could you remind me if i need to get the camera myself or if you plan on offering it with the kit?


You will need to get the camera yourself. You should be able to order it through any Service Center. Part #1006773-00-E. About $350.

If we could source the manufacturer, we'd order them in bulk but we haven't been able to find out who manufacturers them. All we know is that it's made in Japan.

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Keep me informed. Hopefully, there will be instructions on installation. Otherwise, you will have to make a trip out to Hawaii to visit us.

We definitely will have installation instructions. The trickiest part will be installing the front camera and running the cable to the driver's side kick panel. The switch itself is plug and play. Plug in the front camera, rear camera, and the connection to the touchscreen. All of the connections are under the driver's side kick panel.
 
Keep me informed. Hopefully, there will be instructions on installation. Otherwise, you will have to make a trip out to Hawaii to visit us.
We definitely will have installation instructions. The trickiest part will be installing the front camera and running the cable to the driver's side kick panel. The switch itself is plug and play. Plug in the front camera, rear camera, and the connection to the touchscreen. All of the connections are under the driver's side kick panel.
Artsci, I think you will have to make a trip out to Hawaii anyway.... DrTKO will still need help:tongue:
 
Fascinating stuff! I am also an electronics engineer so if you need any information or help, let me know. I have some contacts in manufacturing and the boards could get made in the UK if you desire, for a BOM cost of about $60 (taking a guess considering connectors are pricey) manufacturing would be around $120 to $150 total for 100-off boards at the company I work with which deals mostly with low quantity runs. (Of course pricing is in GBP there, converted for convenience.)

If I were to suggest minor changes, you could move to putting a TVS on the 12V DC input. I know that ICE cars are incredibly noisy and have transient issues due to the alternator and ignition systems. This is of course less of an issue for the Tesla but it's probably a good idea anyway.

I'd also suggest a fuse in addition to the polyswitch because those polyswitches have been known to burn when subject to long term fault overcurrent. You could use an automotive blade fuse in a blade fuse holder.

Also, if you're doing production runs, it's a good idea to get a controlled impedance board made. At high quantities the cost isn't significant, compared to the additional cost in handling returns from customers whose boards do not work due to marginal board tolerances. Typical tolerances on those cheap boards can be ±0.1mm. It looks like you used Laen-PCB to make those, judging from the purple colour. They're a lot more consistent than the cheaper boards made in China, but they still have significant tolerance errors.

How much current does the board pull in operation?
 
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Fascinating stuff! I am also an electronics engineer so if you need any information or help, let me know. I have some contacts in manufacturing and the boards could get made in the UK if you desire, for a BOM cost of about $60 (taking a guess considering connectors are pricey) manufacturing would be around $120 to $150 total for 100-off boards at the company I work with which deals mostly with low quantity runs. (Of course pricing is in GBP there, converted for convenience.)

If I were to suggest minor changes, you could move to putting a TVS on the 12V DC input. I know that ICE cars are incredibly noisy and have transient issues due to the alternator and ignition systems. This is of course less of an issue for the Tesla but it's probably a good idea anyway.

I'd also suggest a fuse in addition to the polyswitch because those polyswitches have been known to burn when subject to long term fault overcurrent. You could use an automotive blade fuse in a blade fuse holder.

Also, if you're doing production runs, it's a good idea to get a controlled impedance board made. At high quantities the cost isn't significant, compared to the additional cost in handling returns from customers whose boards do not work due to marginal board tolerances. Typical tolerances on those cheap boards can be ±0.1mm. It looks like you used Laen-PCB to make those, judging from the purple colour. They're a lot more consistent than the cheaper boards made in China, but they still have significant tolerance errors.

How much current does the board pull in operation?

These are questions that WhiieP85 will have to answer, as he designed the circuit.
 
The newer Nissan Leafs have a fisheye camera on the bottom of each rear view mirror, as well as a front and rear camera.
With that and some image processing, it can produce a top down "wrap around car view" that makes parking extremely easy indeed!
Now *this* is what I want on my Tesla!!

 
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497 posts?

Don't know if it was mentioned or asked: Any plans/options to combine these efforts with DVR for accident analysis? Instead of mounting your dual camera system AND a separate front/back dash-cam solution?

If so, it should be able to record both cameras, no matter what the switch position is.

Not sure if I get a notification of any answer, feel free to send me a direct mail.
 
FYI, for those having trouble finding the reverse lamp connection, Tesla has several different harness and the wire colors changes. On your car look at the grey connector and find cavity number 3, which is is marked on the rear side of the connector, and test it to ground. That should be the reverse light wire. The photo below shows a probe inserted into that cavity/connection. The wire shows as purple with green stripes but on some cars it could be different.

reverse tap.jpg




497 posts?

Don't know if it was mentioned or asked: Any plans/options to combine these efforts with DVR for accident analysis? Instead of mounting your dual camera system AND a separate front/back dash-cam solution?

If so, it should be able to record both cameras, no matter what the switch position is.

Not sure if I get a notification of any answer, feel free to send me a direct mail.

We've thought about that but the technical challenges are so great it's been put off for now.

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I have been back to the car to meassure any current changes in this purple/green wire - but could not see any changes while switching my reverse light on/off - still measure only induction, so its not exact but will normaly give a good indication..
View attachment 40022

My car is a EU car produced in October 2013 - My car does only have 1 (single) white reverse tail light in the right side - it is posible that the US version have a different wiring - or tesla may have made a different wiring/colors for later VIN's - hint the missing 12 V permanent power supply in the roof in newer cars.

I can't answer this question. You option is to power with the OBDII connector that comes with the kit.
 
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We've thought about that but the technical challenges are so great it's been put off for now.

(about dash cam option). OK, thanks, artsci, I thought it would have been more straight forward.

Good initiative, although I am just going to wait a bit myself and see if those sensors will do for me, once I get the MS in MANY months from now.