JerryNycom
Member
Ideally 3 postions on a toggle or homelink would be perfect! #1 camera is FRONT, #2 camera is REAR, and #3 is AUTO so only in reverse flips to REAR....Perfect for parralel parking.
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Wireless front parking camera with monitor for front bumper protection
- Thread starter artsci
- Start date
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- Model S User Interface
Hi Jerry. The way it works currently is.
1. The Homelink toggles the camera from front to rear. Only one Homelink channel is used. In my case the third.
2. The second remote channel (reverse light when wired up) switches to rear when in reverse. i.e. if rear already it will stay there. If on front it will switch to rear while in reverse and then back to front when not in reverse.
My thought is that this accomplishes the same thing. I could design other modes of operation with more programming if there is consensus that we need too. The mode could be set using the existing remote although currently there is no easy way to tell which mode it is in (has only one as things stand). I would need to add a buzzer to the board as a mode indicator. i.e. # of beeps = chosen mode of operation
1. The Homelink toggles the camera from front to rear. Only one Homelink channel is used. In my case the third.
2. The second remote channel (reverse light when wired up) switches to rear when in reverse. i.e. if rear already it will stay there. If on front it will switch to rear while in reverse and then back to front when not in reverse.
My thought is that this accomplishes the same thing. I could design other modes of operation with more programming if there is consensus that we need too. The mode could be set using the existing remote although currently there is no easy way to tell which mode it is in (has only one as things stand). I would need to add a buzzer to the board as a mode indicator. i.e. # of beeps = chosen mode of operation
JerryNycom
Member
Awesome! I parallel park a lot so going from drive to reverse is crucial for tight spaces in NYC, and not having to touch anything to change the camera view! Outstanding work :biggrin:.
Thanks Jerry! Force to REAR works now if I press and hold the second (of 4) buttons on my remote fob. Just need to work out where to wire it up. Note that the camera takes a second or two to toggle as you can see in the video. This is a characteristic of the Tesla camera electronics synchronization delay and not the switch.
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btw - there is a possibility that the reverse light power wiring is included in one of the wiring harnesses shown in the photo. Would take some detective work with a multimeter to find out. I will put it on my list but if there is anyone reading who is looking for a way to help that is prepared to spend some time measuring the voltage between ground (black) and each wire to see if any of the wires read +12V only when in reverse this would be very helpful. Would make the installation very easy if this is the case.
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btw - there is a possibility that the reverse light power wiring is included in one of the wiring harnesses shown in the photo. Would take some detective work with a multimeter to find out. I will put it on my list but if there is anyone reading who is looking for a way to help that is prepared to spend some time measuring the voltage between ground (black) and each wire to see if any of the wires read +12V only when in reverse this would be very helpful. Would make the installation very easy if this is the case.
most easy way to get to the taillights might be through the trunk - see the pics in this thread
Tore up the cargo area
it looks like there are some wires coming out from behind - they must go to some sort of plug.
Tore up the cargo area
it looks like there are some wires coming out from behind - they must go to some sort of plug.
Good suggestion. I took a quick peek at my trunk and the side walls look like they should come off fairly easily. Of course it is totally not obvious to me. Anyone done that? I seem to recall a trunk lighting project that may have needed to take this stuff apart. As you guys can tell I have no experience working on cars. Wouldn't be great if there was a service manual for hackers like me?
Awesome awesome work guys...in NYC for the weekend but I will ask the guys who installed my rear parking sensors where they tapped into the reverse light wire??? The rear parking sensor draws power and reverse signal all from the back.....I think they took pics. I think the front camera will bar a great addition to the front parking sensor retrofit I did as I wanted some coverage for the front sides as well (I clipped the side of my garage door pulling in and I don't think a front camera would have warned me.....) happy new year to all!!
I know Im a litle late in the game - sorry.
12 volt power togling at connection could be a 1 wire communication from display to the cam... fully posible to communicate over same wire as power- though I dont think we can use this to anything, just mentioning it.
The cross point switch used, are cable of feeding simulatanius to both (2) outputs at same time - I know it's will only output 1 input at any time, but if both outputs was layed out on the circurit board (and both EN0+EN1 and SEL0+SEL1 are shorted to mirror the 2 outputs), then it would be posible in futra to add a DVR option - recording what the screen shows - in normal driving the front cam, and while in reverse the rear.
if not to late I would therefor advice to design it with pin 10/11 connected to a futra "output2" before mass producing this board.
12 volt power togling at connection could be a 1 wire communication from display to the cam... fully posible to communicate over same wire as power- though I dont think we can use this to anything, just mentioning it.
The cross point switch used, are cable of feeding simulatanius to both (2) outputs at same time - I know it's will only output 1 input at any time, but if both outputs was layed out on the circurit board (and both EN0+EN1 and SEL0+SEL1 are shorted to mirror the 2 outputs), then it would be posible in futra to add a DVR option - recording what the screen shows - in normal driving the front cam, and while in reverse the rear.
if not to late I would therefor advice to design it with pin 10/11 connected to a futra "output2" before mass producing this board.
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Niels. The crossppint switch does not work. Please see a earlier posts. The new design uses a RF switch. Even if the crosspoint switch was working one would need a deserializer and converter to provide a "DVR"output. Not trivial I'm afraid.
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Thanks for sharing this!
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That would be great. Thanks!
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cgiGuy
Active Member
Great work, folks. Is there a signup "waiting list" that I can get on? Very interested in ordering..
Thanks,
Brian
Thanks,
Brian
Brian,
As soon as WhiteP85 and I determine the price for the kit we'll start a pre-order waiting list. That should take a few days. It should be reasonable. If you're sure you want to do this I'd order the Tesla camera from your service center soon, as it might take about a month to get it. We're expecting the cable kit to go on sale in about a week, with the PCB and box ready soon thereafter.
So when you order the camera do you just ask for the backup camera or do you need anything else?
Ask for the rear view camera, part #1006773-00-E. No other Tesla parts are needed.
Hmm. Did not realize non tech did not have Homelink. We will provide a remote with the kit that you can use to toggle the front or rear. Force to Rear will work the same in tech or non tech.
Thanks for pointing this out.
After unsuccessfully trying to locate the reverse power lead in the footwell I moved on to the trunk. I managed to take off the plastic cover shown in the previous post. It is a dead end and does not provide access to the tail light wiring.
I am now in the process of trying to take off the trunk side panel cover on the driver side and I am stuck. There is a white plastic snap holding on a plastic cover with a small hole in the middle. I have tried releasing it by pushing a drill bit shaft down the hole thinking it might release. No joy. Anyone know how to open this thing?
I am now in the process of trying to take off the trunk side panel cover on the driver side and I am stuck. There is a white plastic snap holding on a plastic cover with a small hole in the middle. I have tried releasing it by pushing a drill bit shaft down the hole thinking it might release. No joy. Anyone know how to open this thing?
Attachments
Could this be made to work so that it always defaults to the front, and only goes to rear when in reverse?
Pros:
Pros:
- No need for remotes
- No need to use the touch screen. Simple automated function
- Will not have the option to use the rear camera when going forward
- More importantly, not able to use the front camera when in reverse. I have the PDC and the front sensors turn off when in reverse. This drives me nuts when backing out of a spot and there is a pillar/car/whatever on either side of me.
It does that if you leave front camera selected. The switch has memory so it will remember its state when powered off and then back on. If you want rear by default just toggle the camera to rear..
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Well with half my trunk disassembled I just realized that the reverse light wiring is in the rear hatch. There are big plastic panels that will likely snap off to access the reverse light but I am very reluctant to mess with the big one.
I went back to the driver foot well harnesses and continued measuring. Have found the brake light 12v but not the reverse light. I know this has been done by the pros installing rear parking sensors but I am clearly no pro.
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Well with half my trunk disassembled I just realized that the reverse light wiring is in the rear hatch. There are big plastic panels that will likely snap off to access the reverse light but I am very reluctant to mess with the big one.
I went back to the driver foot well harnesses and continued measuring. Have found the brake light 12v but not the reverse light. I know this has been done by the pros installing rear parking sensors but I am clearly no pro.
