‘18 M3 noise — control arm issue?

[msaz87]

I’ve had squealing coming from my driver’s side front wheel for awhile now and it’s starting to get worse. I had mobile service take a look more than a year ago and they did a burnishing and called it a day. That didn’t help and I later took it to a SC where I mentioned the upper control arm but they instead looked at the brakes again (performed a few things but called them fine). Essentially did nothing and said sorry. It’s a 2018 and the noise started around 35k miles.

Seems to happen at lower speeds whether I’m turning, going straight on a flat surface, or reversing.

Here’s a few videos of the noise: here and here

Does this sound like the control arm to anyone else? Or any other guesses to the cause?

 

[skygraff]

No mechanic but, having just dealt with CA noise on 18, that doesn’t sound like it. I think they’re closer with the brakes.

 

[RedModel3]

Definitely NOT the control arm. Sorry. Control arm sound is MUCH louder, creakier, more bass, less treble. Like you're trying to move a large pile of junk metal and everything is creaking all at once. It would also change noticeably when you accelerate or step on the brake.

 

[MagicCarpet]

I'm also hearing metal-on-metal creaking from the front left at low speed (2018 Model 3 with 65K miles). I thought it might be a shock going bad. Local mechanic has quoted $841 to replace both front left control arms, and then a alignment. Closest SC is 150 miles away in Atlanta. Has anyone else had to do this?

 

[msaz87]

I took it into a SC and they couldn’t really identify it as everything seemed fine, including pads and rotors. Ultimately they replaced the front pads and rotors anyway and it resolved the issue despite no visible damage or unusual wear.

 

[elbenson]

Does the noise go away when you lightly press on the brakes. The repeating squeaking pattern sounds like brake pads on the disk (piston may be sticky and not have retracted fully). One thing you might try is go out to a nice open road, and re-bed in the brakes. There are different variations on this technique, but since these cars typically do not get a lot of bake use due to region braking, you may have a sticky caliper piston and this might help free it up. You are just looking get your brakes nice and hot (turn your re-gen to low for this process)

Perform 5 moderate to aggressive stops from 40 mph down to 10 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool and do not come to a complete stop. If you’re forced to stop, either shift into neutral or give room in front so you can allow the vehicle to roll slightly while waiting for the light. The rotors will be very hot and holding down the brake pedal will allow the pad to create an imprint on the rotor. This is where the judder can originate from.

Then do 5 moderate stops from 35 mph to 5 mph in rapid succession without letting the brakes cool. You should expect to smell some resin as the brakes get hot.

After this is complete, drive around for as long as possible without excessively heating the brakes and without coming to a complete stop (Try for about 5 minutes at moderate speed).


Eric