Can anyone please answer the question about what AWG these wires are? (I don't have the car here to look.)
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I stand corrected...
So Tesla put a 19A blower (original dual fan setup) on a 15A rated 14 AWG wire and connector? And they still refuse to admit they have problem?
Not only that but the new single motor fan can pull up to 27 Amps according to the data sheet, which with the possibility of a bad connection sending all the current through one pair of pins, it's no wonder they can burn out.
For any other manufacturer this would be a recall.
It's such a well known issue that Gruber offers a fix for it. Tesla should be doing this. Instead they are capitalising by trying to charge 10k USD for a new PEM or (I was told) 1700 GBP for a new CIC board.
Tesla Roadster PEM Engineering Flaw Resolution
For any other manufacturer this would be a recall.
It's such a well known issue that Gruber offers a fix for it. Tesla should be doing this. Instead they are capitalising by trying to charge 10k USD for a new PEM or (I was told) 1700 GBP for a new CIC board.
Tesla Roadster PEM Engineering Flaw Resolution
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Hereby my experience so far with the "1146 DMC Motor Fan Problem":
The error started about a month ago.
But everything kept working fine.
Including temp's.
But a couple of weeks later the rear blower stopped working.
Temp of PEM went up quickly while driving and the first time for me in yellow.
Did some research here on TMC while I was on vacation.
And after my vacation I started taking a look at the PEM fan.
I found out that my trunk was wet and that there was leaking water from my trunk on the PEM fan:
After taking PEM fan of and cleaning the PEM fan and the 2 connectors the fan started working again.
PEM fan is working again, but still 1146 errors.
I ordered the molex connector for on the PEM side.
And I ordered a new PEM fan.
I will start with placing a new PEM connector.
And if I still get orrors I will also replace the PEM fan.
To be continued...
Does anyone have the part nr for thes connecters:
(the 2 connectors on the PEM fan side?)
The error started about a month ago.
But everything kept working fine.
Including temp's.
But a couple of weeks later the rear blower stopped working.
Temp of PEM went up quickly while driving and the first time for me in yellow.
Did some research here on TMC while I was on vacation.
And after my vacation I started taking a look at the PEM fan.
I found out that my trunk was wet and that there was leaking water from my trunk on the PEM fan:
After taking PEM fan of and cleaning the PEM fan and the 2 connectors the fan started working again.
PEM fan is working again, but still 1146 errors.
I ordered the molex connector for on the PEM side.
And I ordered a new PEM fan.
I will start with placing a new PEM connector.
And if I still get orrors I will also replace the PEM fan.
To be continued...
Does anyone have the part nr for thes connecters:
(the 2 connectors on the PEM fan side?)
Attachments
PS: I liked the lower PEM temps while driving without the snowdam.
But I didn't like all the dirt and moisture getting under the back and in the PEM fan.
So I "upgraded" my snowdam like other TMC members did and put it back under the car:
But I didn't like all the dirt and moisture getting under the back and in the PEM fan.
So I "upgraded" my snowdam like other TMC members did and put it back under the car:
Speaking as someone who still has the dual fans and the snow dam I’m interested in hearing how your modification provides additional cooling. I may have to steal that idea.
thomas.rueesch
Member
I wondered, as I have the same messages after been to the SC if this might be a case of proper reconnecting...
do I need to "unpower" the PEM as written in the DIY PEM cleaning?
DIY: Roadster 2.5 PEM cleaning - step by step
I would be glad for a reply. many thanks
thomas
I started with step 1 and 2 (of the DIY pem cleaning thread) before unplugging the connector. Not sure if necessary, but I am doing it just in case.
I pulled the fuse cover off the PEM and while I would not recommend it to anyone I was desperate to see if my charger had plowmen the PEM fuse. There was no power to the PEM but I guess there could have been. I’m assuming disabling the APS stops any way for the Can bus to close the contactors.
@X.l.r.8 hereby a respond to your question in #110:
I did a longer highway drive yesterday with the next temps etc:
Distance: 60km
Speed: aprox 110km/hr
Outside temp: 28C
Temps after drive:
Motor: 76C
PEM: 39C
Battery: 31C
Energy: 131Wh/km
My PEM temp used to be in the low 40s the most of the time while driving on the highway at this speed en with even lower outside temp.
So it seems like the PEM temp is a couple of C lower than before the "upgrade".
I did a longer highway drive yesterday with the next temps etc:
Distance: 60km
Speed: aprox 110km/hr
Outside temp: 28C
Temps after drive:
Motor: 76C
PEM: 39C
Battery: 31C
Energy: 131Wh/km
My PEM temp used to be in the low 40s the most of the time while driving on the highway at this speed en with even lower outside temp.
So it seems like the PEM temp is a couple of C lower than before the "upgrade".
scotty2541
Member
Step 5: Clear the Ductwork of Debris
Time to clean! If you have an air compressor with a long handled nozzle, you're in good shape. Set the regulator to 80+ PSI as you'll want to try and dislodge as many leaves, dirt, and whatever else is lurking in there with strong blasts of air (Vid. 3).
Thx again to everyone for your input and guidance! I truly hope the steps above addresses this error once and for all
Excellent post. I just repeated the process with my 2011 2.5
I am now 16 months since service was supposed to occur (I can't even CALL Tesla anymore. Their phone menu system tell you use their APP )
I got the 1146 fan error about a week ago, when the road temp was about 37. My PEM showed 44 on start, then rapidly went to 50C, sometimes 54C.... Texas can get pretty warm
I didn't do the full PEM cleaning, as I am not equipped to remove it. Just blew out and vacuumed the ducts repeatedly. Back and forth between 100 PSI, a leaf blower, and a shop vac.
Question: After cleaning the fans as described here (it was slightly different on mine), on my road test, the VDM showed the road temp was about 28C. When I drive hard, the PEM hits 46C. Then cools off to 41C in about 45-60 seconds... Is this about normal?
-Scotty
Yes, the thermistor is on the cooling plate. When you drive hard the IGBT’s will produce a lot of heat, you are measuring the heat transference to the plate and it should, if there is adequate air flow, cool fairly quickly, without good air circulation and debris accumulation the heat will stay in the plates and take a long time, If ever to cool down.
this is where I believe you are reading temperatures from.
this is where I believe you are reading temperatures from.
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scotty2541
Member
Thanks.
I have not taken apart the PEM. My other question, just for information, is where does the airflow go?
I assume both duct fans blow IN. Where does the air exhaust? The PEM looks completely sealed from what I can tell.
I blew into one duct, to see if it came out the other side. It didn't. And both fans blow the same way I assume (I intentionally reversed the two fans when I put it back together, they are not on a common mounting plate like the other posts describe)
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