The left side of the PEM is where you will feel the hot air leaving ( remember that being asked a while back). If you put your hand near the back of the charge port door area inside the trunk, you can feel it there.
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Yes, the electronic part of PEM is sealed. The heat sinks extend down into a duct in the bottom of the PEM that the cooling air flows thru. It is less than an inch tall so that's why it is prone to debris buildup.
I did what was suggested, and I can't feel ANY air exhaust. And my temps are slowly bubbling up...
40,41,42,43...42,41...42,43,44,45...44,43...44,45,46...
So I assume there is a heated air being built up in the PEM.
I cleaned the fans, and did a combo of 80+PSI air and a shop vac into and out of the ducts underneath. Repeatedly.
Cleaning the fans dropped the PEM from the 46-54 range, down to 42-50.
And there are two ducts, which seem to be completely independent.
Assuming I do NOT have any way to lift the PEM out and take it apart, what do I do?
Can I just unscrew all those spline bolts on the PEM top, and lift it off like a valve cover of a regular car?
Or at the base of that cover are hex bolts on a flange? Do I remove them? (but the three orange cables go in that cover from the passenger side)
I can also see three cables coming up to the back side of the PEM, pinched behind the rear trunk well.
Any advice is appreciated.
Scott
Unfortunately unless you pull the PEM I’m skeptical that you can clear the debris by blindly blowing air. The PEM is a two person job to remove unless you have an engine hoist or some other way to support some of the load. It’s just too large and awkward to remove by your self. But once out it’s not difficult to clean. There is also a bolt on plastic cover that needs to be removed to get to additional heat sinks that undoubtedly will be clogged.
Taking the PEM apart from the top doesn’t provide access to the airflow chamber. It’s a completely separate part of the PEM. Sealed from the electronics section. Only the heatsinks are in the airflow chamber. Complete access to them requires removal of the PEM.
My mistake was not replacing the female connector pins on the blower motor harness. I’m now getting the 1146 errors and high PEM temps (edging yellow warning temps). I know I need to dive into this now as I am guessing the blower isn’t ramping up to fully demanded speed.
Opening the top does not help other than to look at the pretty electronics.
It’s months more than days. I would also make sure the pin hasn’t been pushed in as identified by @petergrub I would for sure change the pins on the plug end while you are there
Plug is Molex 19418-0004
Pins are 19420-0003 for the gold plated ones.
Hereby my experience so far with the "1146 DMC Motor Fan Problem":
The error started about a month ago.
But everything kept working fine.
Including temp's.
But a couple of weeks later the rear blower stopped working.
Temp of PEM went up quickly while driving and the first time for me in yellow.
Did some research here on TMC while I was on vacation.
And after my vacation I started taking a look at the PEM fan.
I found out that my trunk was wet and that there was leaking water from my trunk on the PEM fan:
View attachment 444760
After taking PEM fan of and cleaning the PEM fan and the 2 connectors the fan started working again.
PEM fan is working again, but still 1146 errors.
I ordered the molex connector for on the PEM side.
And I ordered a new PEM fan.
I will start with placing a new PEM connector.
And if I still get orrors I will also replace the PEM fan.
To be continued...
Does anyone have the part nr for thes connecters:
(the 2 connectors on the PEM fan side?)
View attachment 444764
HiSo , Did you fixed the 1146 problem?
Now I just ordered the connector pin , and I am thinking to buy a motor fan . If your problem is connector pin ,then maybe I will not buy the fan now
Hi
I solved my problem with the fan.
Hope yours can be solved easily too.
The connector was dry and break easily. Don't buy the removal tool, a paperclicp pushed in the hole would work... Except the connector will have to be replaced.
I labeled the old wires!!
Snap it apart. Pull the pins. On mine I could just put them on the connector pin, and see they were loose.
(Also, one of the NEW pins from mouser was loose when I did the same test. So squeeze them just a little so they fit tighter)
I clipped off the connectors, and crimped on the new ones. Then inserted them in the new housing. (You did label the wires, right?? )
Put it back together and weeks later no problem.
Except, now I've got a
V_ess too high at start of precharge and
V_ess too low at end of precharge