Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

2012 Model S Signature Cars

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
The original lug nuts in 2012 did not have covers and the top end was a plastic material that warped when torqued. Most folks have probably had them exchanged it by now for the newer traditional ones with a lug nut cover.
 
Last edited:
  • Informative
Reactions: AMPd
Hmm, I still don’t have a clue. The article is from 2013 and it says an 85 pack was 44k+ with trade in value for the 60 pack it was brought down considerably. But who knows how much they are now and how much credit you’d get for the 8 year old pack.

Still too many questions that Tesla should already have a clear answer for, considering they now have 2012 models out of warranty entirely I’m a bit puzzled as to why there’s no replacement cost available.
 
Yes you can. There is a removable section of the nose cone to the left "drivers side" of the "T" emblem on the nose cone. It can be popped out and snaps back in easily to allow access.
IMG_6856.jpg


Where is it? I don't see where anything can be removed on my nose cone.

ps. don't judge the paint chipped hood, lol.
 
@REcard This is the section that can be popped out (on my car it can and is made to be able to do so) I don't know if all signatures had the same nose cone, I do believe that they did, but I do know that at some point the nose cone was redesigned necessitating the entire nose cone be removed in order to access the 12 volt jumper posts
IMG_6856.jpg~2.jpg
 
Last edited:
I think the parking brake solenoid is sticking - not disengaging completely. Out of driving 6k miles in two months, I had this happen about a dozen times. I was about to remove the wheel and check it out myself when I found out the lug nuts are weird as well. So, I bought a replacement set that came in today.

So far, these are the unique differences found in 2012 MS:
12v jump port
12v battery location
charge port w/o manual release
off-size lugnuts
?? any more I should know about?

No proximity sensors ( backup or forward ).
charge port manual close
manual folding mirrors
 
@tccartier , what tool is used to pry this off? I can feel the split in the plastic, but it's so tight, don't want to push a screwdriver in there to mar the piece.

If I recall I think that's what I did I started from the far left side opposite the "T- emblem in the center of the nose cone let me look at the service manual and see if it makes a reference as to the procedure for getting that thing out of there I may well have gotten lucky
 
That pic is def. the Gen 2 nosecone. I believe there is even a service bulletin about how to replace the Sig version with the newer nose cones if ever needed replacing (due to accident, etc). Sounds like I need to keep a plastic pry tool in the glove box if I ever need to remove it ... oh wait .. I can't get to the box if there is no power, lol.
 
  • Funny
Reactions: BrownOuttaSpec
That pic is def. the Gen 2 nosecone. I believe there is even a service bulletin about how to replace the Sig version with the newer nose cones if ever needed replacing (due to accident, etc). Sounds like I need to keep a plastic pry tool in the glove box if I ever need to remove it ... oh wait .. I can't get to the box if there is no power, lol.

Another option to eliminate having to get in there more than once is to pop the cover off and then attach cables to those posts and route them to another more convenient external location somewhere. Those connections are not high amperage cabling such as you would find on a ICE car as there is no cranking current necessary, you only need to supply enough current to the 12 volt battery to make the main contactors close then the traction pack will feed it from there through the DC to DC converter.
 
But if the 12v is what is keeping the contactors engaged, won't removing the jumper then lower the small battery back down below 12v which then disengages the HV contactors? It's my understanding that the 12v is what runs the electrics on the car (minus drive units, of course) while the HV batt simply keeps it topped off. Let me know if I have that wrong so I don't unintentionally spread false info.
 
But if the 12v is what is keeping the contactors engaged, won't removing the jumper then lower the small battery back down below 12v which then disengages the HV contactors? It's my understanding that the 12v is what runs the electrics on the car (minus drive units, of course) while the HV batt simply keeps it topped off. Let me know if I have that wrong so I don't unintentionally spread false info.

Once the contactors close the DC to DC converter should feed the 12 volt systems of the car for that drive. Assuming of course that your 12 volt battery is not internally shorted. but so long as it can pass current the car will remain alive and run basically on the DC to DC converter until you turn it off and then of course you'll be back to square one your 12 volt battery will likely be too low after a short period of time to close the contactors and restart the car again.
 
I posted in the general forum but wanted to try here as well. Does the white interior on the signature car always have white seatbelt buckles? I am looking at some signature cars online and they look like they are white but the buckles are black. I'm guessing its the tan interior and just the photo lighting but wanted to confirm.