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2014 Tesla Model S 85 - Build Thread
- Thread starter xAgyex
- Start date
At 125,353 Miles.
Remove/Replaced my Amazon stick on vinyl door handle face covers with the RPM Tesla Full Wrapped Door Handle Covers.
I chose to change from the handle face cover to the full handle cover because when it was very hot out and the handle back was exposed it would burned my sons fingers. With the full wrap covers its perfect, no more burned fingers.
Here is the video I used to help me install it, super easy took less than an hour to do all four handles.
Remove/Replaced my Amazon stick on vinyl door handle face covers with the RPM Tesla Full Wrapped Door Handle Covers.
I chose to change from the handle face cover to the full handle cover because when it was very hot out and the handle back was exposed it would burned my sons fingers. With the full wrap covers its perfect, no more burned fingers.
Here is the video I used to help me install it, super easy took less than an hour to do all four handles.
At 125,353 Miles.
Long time with no updates. But recently had this strange clicking clunking noise coming from the rear when decelerating, so decided to check all the suspension bolts in the rear...and found that my rear driver side toe arm eccentric bolt was loose. I am guessing when I got the alignment last at Tesla Service the same horrible tech left the bolt loose and not torqued down. It was loose enough that I could see it with my eyes, and then when I put the wrench on it yap...super loose. Folks looks like we need to check these things after the techs work on our cars...this is why I will soon leave the Tesla family. Tesla needs to hire techs that care and not over work them. Very disappointing, but I fixed my issue. But what happens if they do this to someones who isn't car guy. I mean This could have ended up with me causing some serious damage while driving at high speed.
Long time with no updates. But recently had this strange clicking clunking noise coming from the rear when decelerating, so decided to check all the suspension bolts in the rear...and found that my rear driver side toe arm eccentric bolt was loose. I am guessing when I got the alignment last at Tesla Service the same horrible tech left the bolt loose and not torqued down. It was loose enough that I could see it with my eyes, and then when I put the wrench on it yap...super loose. Folks looks like we need to check these things after the techs work on our cars...this is why I will soon leave the Tesla family. Tesla needs to hire techs that care and not over work them. Very disappointing, but I fixed my issue. But what happens if they do this to someones who isn't car guy. I mean This could have ended up with me causing some serious damage while driving at high speed.
3rd-party repair shops, my friend. Nothing special about the suspension, anyone can work on it, and places like wk057 in NC and Electrified Garage in NH can fix special battery/motor issues.
Thanks cleverscreenam, I am aware of all of these shops on the east coast. But living in MD it isn't easy to reach 057 or EG especially when I have simple issues (not battery or motor issues). Additionally, I already purchased the extended battery warranty with 057 and do plan to get up to EG to have them do a 100k vehicle inspection and overview for me. For now I will work on all the little issues myself and unless I absolutely need to then maybe take it to my local Tesla Service center. Additionally, I recently found a local tire, wheel, alignment shop that I trust that I plan to have them do all my alignment and tire work for me moving forward.
I have to still call out Tesla Service as it is beyond terrible now a days. And that breaks my heart. I am finding it so hard to recommend Tesla to even my parents and close friends, just because of the very bad service experiences I have had.
Absolutely. I too feel betrayed by customer service, I bet most of the early adopters do, as we used to be Tesla's biggest fanboys. Alas, we are no longer needed by mothership.tesla.com
I have come to grips and most of the anger and caring is behind me now. My revenge is to keep my free-supercharging Model S on the road until they pry it from my cold dead fingers
At least average drivers can handle mass market 3 and Y prices, and do their usual 2 year, 5 year car upgrade cycles. I even saw 2 new Model Y's at a local Hertz car rental, and I smiled proudly. Great way to reach the masses, and show them travel is typically cheaper than gas even when using any high-priced superchargers like Florida and California.
As for my parents, I just recommended Aptera to them, and they ordered one and paid the refundable deposit. What on earth could be better than an electric car? An electric car that solar-charges itself
I have come to grips and most of the anger and caring is behind me now. My revenge is to keep my free-supercharging Model S on the road until they pry it from my cold dead fingers
At least average drivers can handle mass market 3 and Y prices, and do their usual 2 year, 5 year car upgrade cycles. I even saw 2 new Model Y's at a local Hertz car rental, and I smiled proudly. Great way to reach the masses, and show them travel is typically cheaper than gas even when using any high-priced superchargers like Florida and California.
As for my parents, I just recommended Aptera to them, and they ordered one and paid the refundable deposit. What on earth could be better than an electric car? An electric car that solar-charges itself
Oh you nailed it...Tesla no longer needs any one to sell their cars thats for sure. Well for now I am keeping my until they pry it from my hands. Hope to catch you in the wild. Stay safe and don't be a menace on the road...=D
At 131,248 Miles.
This is the strangest thing to ever happen to me. Never had this happen. Just take a look at that picture below. I was driving home from NY to MD and just after supercharging at Newark, DE supercharger, then while going 70 MPH in AP in the middle lane, the car did this crazy swerve as though a huge gust of wind hit the car from the left to the right lane. Almost ran into the next car over. I took the steering wheel as we should...(AP requires full attention at all times), dropped speed to 65 MPH. And then I noticed that when i left of the accelerator the rear pushes the car to the right really hard. So I set ReGen to low and pedal to chill mode, this helped a bit. And I kept on driving home assuming it was the wind (We had 16 MPH headwinds)...When I got off the highway where there was no wind going 20 MPH the weird feeling and pushing, swerving was still there. Parking in the garage I noticed a weird/strange clicking noise coming from the rear. Open service ticket. Checked the next morning noticed the rear driver tire sticking out a lot (extreme negative toe). Took the wheel off and found that the sub-frame broke (clean cut straight down), where the toe arm bolts in. I still cant believe I made it home. And the only thing I can remember over the past 24 hours was hitting a bad pot hole on NJ Turnpike, but that is nothing new.
Driver rear (lots of negative toe):
Passenger rear (Looks fine pretty straight):
Broken rear driver side sub-frame at rear toe arm:
At this time, I am just hoping and praying that it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg to get this fix. Additionally, I hope nothing else is broken.
This is the strangest thing to ever happen to me. Never had this happen. Just take a look at that picture below. I was driving home from NY to MD and just after supercharging at Newark, DE supercharger, then while going 70 MPH in AP in the middle lane, the car did this crazy swerve as though a huge gust of wind hit the car from the left to the right lane. Almost ran into the next car over. I took the steering wheel as we should...(AP requires full attention at all times), dropped speed to 65 MPH. And then I noticed that when i left of the accelerator the rear pushes the car to the right really hard. So I set ReGen to low and pedal to chill mode, this helped a bit. And I kept on driving home assuming it was the wind (We had 16 MPH headwinds)...When I got off the highway where there was no wind going 20 MPH the weird feeling and pushing, swerving was still there. Parking in the garage I noticed a weird/strange clicking noise coming from the rear. Open service ticket. Checked the next morning noticed the rear driver tire sticking out a lot (extreme negative toe). Took the wheel off and found that the sub-frame broke (clean cut straight down), where the toe arm bolts in. I still cant believe I made it home. And the only thing I can remember over the past 24 hours was hitting a bad pot hole on NJ Turnpike, but that is nothing new.
Driver rear (lots of negative toe):
Passenger rear (Looks fine pretty straight):
Broken rear driver side sub-frame at rear toe arm:
At this time, I am just hoping and praying that it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg to get this fix. Additionally, I hope nothing else is broken.
WOW!!! Did you buy some lottery tickets while you're at it, because you are SO LUCKY and skilled to keep control and not crash in that situation!!
I think your picture need a few more red arrows, they don't do justice to that danger.
Yeah, I thought "control arms" as soon as you said pulls to left or right on accel or regen. Remember you can shift into neutral and coast at anytime, by holding the shifter slightly up or down for 2 seconds.
So, going to break out the Gorilla Glue? JB Cold Weld?
(j/k, don't do this readers)
Do you plan to tackle the subframe swap yourself, or a shop?
Rich Rebuilds has a video on YouTube of (stupidly) test driving a Model S with a broken rear control arm. They went around a neighborhood at just 30 mph and were swerving and skidding tires. I'm just in awe that you kept control at 70 MPH, especially with a car next to you.
Do you know where your car was driven its' first 4 years? I wonder if that environment ate away at the frame... rather scary since I'm driving through winter in "Salt Capital" NY and don't want my arms separating under load at speed.
I think your picture need a few more red arrows, they don't do justice to that danger.
Yeah, I thought "control arms" as soon as you said pulls to left or right on accel or regen. Remember you can shift into neutral and coast at anytime, by holding the shifter slightly up or down for 2 seconds.
So, going to break out the Gorilla Glue? JB Cold Weld?
(j/k, don't do this readers)Do you plan to tackle the subframe swap yourself, or a shop?
Rich Rebuilds has a video on YouTube of (stupidly) test driving a Model S with a broken rear control arm. They went around a neighborhood at just 30 mph and were swerving and skidding tires. I'm just in awe that you kept control at 70 MPH, especially with a car next to you.
Do you know where your car was driven its' first 4 years? I wonder if that environment ate away at the frame... rather scary since I'm driving through winter in "Salt Capital" NY and don't want my arms separating under load at speed.
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@cleverscreenam...this one is a bit tough for me to figure out short of hitting pot holes and bad roads over the life of the car so far. I think metal fatigue happens. I have taken it to the Owings Mills Tesla Service Center just this afternoon. Lets see what happens. I definitely want to repair it and keep driving it. But lets just say that I am super thankful that over the past 2 years I have been dealing with the car driving strange and doing the same behavior as when this broke...So I knew to not just left of the gas too hard and to not use breaks but to be very gentle with all my inputs. For now I highly recommend all Tesla owners to have AAA Premier membership for that free 200 mile towing. Just in case...well worth its weight in gold. Please cross your figures for me that this doesn't cost an arm and a leg.
Thank you AAA
Can you help me since I have your service plan? I do have AAA so i could get it towed to you some how. I PM'd you too.
HankLloydRight
No Roads
Looks like it's about 420 miles to Hickory, NC. AAA Premium is what, 200 free miles? Then full towing price for the remaining 220 miles. That's going to be one hell of a honking towing bill!! I'd suggest just letting Jason arrange to have your car shipped there and back (or fly down to Charlotte and drive it back).
Can help regardless of that.
Straight towing is likely too expensive, even with AAA. Would probably need to use a regular hauler if it can drive under its own power up on a trailer. If not, there's some other routes, but still likely less expensive than normal towing. Actually just moved an inoperable car from DC the other day for $450, so a drivable one would be less.
Sorry, my PMs are a mess here... have not had time to sift through them all. I can dig through if need be, but best to shoot a note to [email protected]. (I need to figure out a TMC autoresponder for this...)
If it's just the rear subframe that needs replacing, it'd be probably ~$300 for the part, ~$300 labor, and a $70 alignment (outsourced to a shop we use for this all the time across the street from us) + whatever tow/ship ends up being. I usually just schedule a tech most of a day to work on motor swaps, which is basically the same thing here. Can probably squeeze this in without much issue.
Last I saw a subframe replacement invoice a customer sent us from Tesla was over $2k parts+labor, which is ridiculous.
To be completely honest, this isn't too terrible as a DIY project if you've got some normal auto tools, a couple of jacks, jack stands, and a cart of some kind. A friend is helpful. Little tedious, but nothing too crazy. The entire subframe is held in by only 4 bolts + shocks (2 more bolts).
Tesla Customer Service on the phone quoted me $800 to tow 60 miles to their repair center, that's the same price to ship it coast-to-coast on a car hauler. Instead, I rented a car trailer from uHaul and paid a pickup truck to pull it.
Thanks for chiming in @cleverscreenam. I agree shipping it would be best. For now waiting for SC cost estimate.
Thanks @wk057, I will contact your team, how do I get a hold of anyone? I email you all via your website contact us page, but never get response. Call?
Thanks @wk057, I will contact your team, how do I get a hold of anyone? I email you all via your website contact us page, but never get response. Call?
The contact form or [email protected] should work fine, unless you're getting filtered somewhere. We're almost caught up and back to normal processing on contact requests. Calls are still a little swamped, though.
Just some notes for me and anyone that is interested...
Looks like for the 2022 Model S and newer they redesigned the subframe quite a bit, but makes sense. You can see just how much they reinforced the mount points, compared to before. So basically all Model S before 2022 model can and will have this issue...especially if you have a lead foot.
Part number for the subframe for all Model S until Feb 2021 = 6007012-00-L
Part number after Feb 2021 = 1420561-00-D(Performance) or 1420562-00-D(Long Range)
Looks like for the 2022 Model S and newer they redesigned the subframe quite a bit, but makes sense. You can see just how much they reinforced the mount points, compared to before. So basically all Model S before 2022 model can and will have this issue...especially if you have a lead foot.
Part number for the subframe for all Model S until Feb 2021 = 6007012-00-L
Part number after Feb 2021 = 1420561-00-D(Performance) or 1420562-00-D(Long Range)
At 125,353 Miles.
Long time with no updates. But recently had this strange clicking clunking noise coming from the rear when decelerating, so decided to check all the suspension bolts in the rear...and found that my rear driver side toe arm eccentric bolt was loose. I am guessing when I got the alignment last at Tesla Service the same horrible tech left the bolt loose and not torqued down. It was loose enough that I could see it with my eyes, and then when I put the wrench on it yap...super loose. Folks looks like we need to check these things after the techs work on our cars...this is why I will soon leave the Tesla family. Tesla needs to hire techs that care and not over work them. Very disappointing, but I fixed my issue. But what happens if they do this to someones who isn't car guy. I mean This could have ended up with me causing some serious damage while driving at high speed.
I just reinstalled my subframe after LDU rebuild. bolted on the toe link, camber link, and shock without loading the suspension. Rear end felt less compliant after (or maybe from just not driving car for 2 months during rebuild haha)
Finally loosen them and tightened while loaded which is a lot harder without car up on a rack or lift (drove up a shallow 5" high ramp and struggled with access and 90Nm torque wrench clearance). Rear end felt more compliant afterwards (but I admit, could be placebo)
But in general, lots of suspension bushings need to be tightened while loaded. Otherwise, normal ride height will be constantly twisting those bushings causing early failure.
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Thanks for that info. I have always taken my car into Tesla for issues with the rear pushing and swaying and they have always done alignment for me. I would assume they do it under load. Also they mentioned that after replacing the front components they think I should come in later to replace the rear. And that was on the list of things to do...but welp...this subframe issue hit me first. I am pretty certain that my subframe was failing from day one of me reporting the strange wandering and swaying at high way speeds on and off throttle. Also when in chill mode and low regen the issue was less pronounced soo...points to the issue being spotted early. But service always stated alignment issues, then even stated bad tires, and maybe out of round wheels. So I purchased new wheels and tires and still the issue persisted.
I will just stand by for the quote on the work for now, before moving forward with either W057 or just having Tesla Service complete the work. I do think Tesla Service should do the work under goodwill since I had previously taken it in for multiple alignments and reported the swaying issues.
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