Can't seem to find this anywhere, so I did it myself. And I'm too stubborn to pay 3x as much for parts to do this when it's not necessary.
Spacers - 25mm : Amazon.com : $95
Lowering Links : Airlinks Lowering Links for 2012-2020 Tesla Model S with Air Suspension | eBay : $60
First things first. I wanted 20mm spacers initially from research but only came across some overpriced ones. From china, lol. So I found some 25mm ones that actually ended up putting the wheel in a better position IMHO. I torqued them to 99 ft. lbs. (FYI, this car is brand new and wow I couldn't believe how easy it was to get the lugnuts off, the factory does not tighten them much. Maybe 85-90 ft. lbs.).
The lowering links I had to modify. The 2023 Refresh Plaid X is different. The front and rear are the same whereas before the rear had longer ones. So, easy peasy, just cut down the threads on the links and made them shorter. Used a dremel. Used some lithium grease and ensured I used the locking pins to hold them on. NOTE : you'll see on the rear of the X (not sure of the S) that you can't go too long on the links otherwise they bump into a huge screw on some suspension parts. But in the "very low' mode, no rubbing and the tire goes just under the fender. So it worked out perfectly. Another cool thing about the refresh X is that the nipple for the link is removable so it makes it a bit easier to install / remove, etc.
Here's a photo of it on "very low" model:
Spacers - 25mm : Amazon.com : $95
Lowering Links : Airlinks Lowering Links for 2012-2020 Tesla Model S with Air Suspension | eBay : $60
First things first. I wanted 20mm spacers initially from research but only came across some overpriced ones. From china, lol. So I found some 25mm ones that actually ended up putting the wheel in a better position IMHO. I torqued them to 99 ft. lbs. (FYI, this car is brand new and wow I couldn't believe how easy it was to get the lugnuts off, the factory does not tighten them much. Maybe 85-90 ft. lbs.).
The lowering links I had to modify. The 2023 Refresh Plaid X is different. The front and rear are the same whereas before the rear had longer ones. So, easy peasy, just cut down the threads on the links and made them shorter. Used a dremel. Used some lithium grease and ensured I used the locking pins to hold them on. NOTE : you'll see on the rear of the X (not sure of the S) that you can't go too long on the links otherwise they bump into a huge screw on some suspension parts. But in the "very low' mode, no rubbing and the tire goes just under the fender. So it worked out perfectly. Another cool thing about the refresh X is that the nipple for the link is removable so it makes it a bit easier to install / remove, etc.
Here's a photo of it on "very low" model:
