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21 inch tires and replacement after 12-15,000 miles

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This makes sense. This is how I drive, trying to use mostly regen. So it's not 4 wheel braking.

Had my 21 Conti's rotated today. Exactly 90 days of ownership, and 5200 miles.

Backs had 4/32, while fronts had 7/32.
Wear bar is at 2/32.
Tires start with 10/32.

Considering I don't have a performance, and I really don't drive it that hard very often, except for the occasional demo ride... sure seems like they're wearing pretty fast. 60 mile round trip commute, with mostly highway, half with Portland traffic, half against.
I also live in Portland, I've got 21's and 12,000 miles and I've still got a few thousand I can put on. I certainly don't baby the car. Not sure why you'd be suffering worse wear than I am.

There's a lot to figure out. They need to WARN prospective buyers that purchasing 21" tires means you will need to replace every 5000.
You'd have to be tearing it up every day speed racer style to have to replace them at 5k.
 
The other thing to keep in mind, is regenerative braking, which is applied to the back wheels. The better you get at driving the S, the less you use the real brakes. So the back tires not only are handling all the forward launching, but more than a fair share of decelerating too. This begins to make more sense understanding this.

@Chris, you'd think I'm sort of speed racer, wouldn't ya?
I think it's also my cross town commute, half in the thick of stop and go traffic, that's also coming into play. 60 miles a day minimum.

Edit, btw, I believe you and I live on the same mountain.
 
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There's a lot to figure out. They need to WARN prospective buyers that purchasing 21" tires means you will need to replace every 5000. I have owned these tires 'performance 21' tires' in the past on 911's and never an issue at 5K miles. 10K okay, 5K with normal driving not normal--period. Nothing to figure out except why this only happens on Tesla.

That's not universally true.

I have the 21" with Michelins and 7,200 miles and plenty of tread.

I expect to get 12-15k which is about normal for the Pilot Sport and what I get on my BMW 650.

What we have found is that those that only get 5k have a toe alignment problem.
 
That's not universally true.

I have the 21" with Michelins and 7,200 miles and plenty of tread.

I expect to get 12-15k which is about normal for the Pilot Sport and what I get on my BMW 650.

What we have found is that those that only get 5k have a toe alignment problem.

I so d@*m confused at this point between, toe, camber, etc, etc.

Bottom line on the Pilot Sport 21" for p85+ to get 12-15K miles (with 'normal driving'), does the SC know what the heck they are doing to make everything right regarding these issues?

How often should one take their P85+ in to have them check it?
 
Keep a close eye on your tread. Maybe check at 3,000 miles to see how things are. Possibly consider rotating early on to even out the wear.
Bald tires at 5,000 miles is not the norm and only a few people have reported that. Most seem to be getting about 8-12k miles it seems.
 
Bottom line on the Pilot Sport 21" for p85+ to get 12-15K miles (with 'normal driving'), does the SC know what the heck they are doing to make everything right regarding these issues?
Again, what's to be made right? I'm going to get about 15k miles off my 21" tires, just about the same I've gotten off of high performance tires on every car I've owned for 25 years.

Make sure you rotate them 1/2 way (~6k miles) or you will drive the back wheels bald early. Did the same on my RX8.
 
I'm at over 18,000 miles with my 21" Michelins.

But I'm a complete newbie to performance tires, and other than looking at them to see if they look like they still have tread left, how do you measure whether you are getting to that point? What/where are the wear bars?
 
I so d@*m confused at this point between, toe, camber, etc, etc.

Toe: The inward or outward angle of the tire when looking down from above the car. If you look down at your feet when standing and move your toes together or apart without moving you heels, you know what toe is. This angle wears tires the most. It's there to take up slop in the suspension. Modern cars have very little slop so toe angles are smaller these days.

Camber: The inward or outward angle of the tire when looking from the end of the car. A bowlegged person has camber from the knee down (it's positive camber though). This is not considered a wearing angle, but it will amplify any alignment problems (particularly toe). Camber helps in cornering.

Caster: This is the forward or backward slant of a line drawn through the centre of the the ball joints when looking at the side of the car. This angle can cause vibration and cupping if it's too far out of spec. It's there to provide stability at high speeds. An example of too much caster is a shopping cart where one or more wheels oscillate back and forth.

SAI/KPI (steering axis inclination/king pin inclination): This is the inward or outward slant of a line drawn the centre of the ball joints when looking from the front/back of the car. This is considered a non-wearing angle. It's there to provide stability at low speeds (when caster doesn't have much effect).

TOOT (toe out on turns): This is the difference of the angle between the inside tire and outside front tire during a turn. The front tires don't turn on the same radius, so TOOT is used to minimize scrubbing. When perfect, the centreline of both front tires and the rear axle should rotate around a common centre of rotation--this happens at only one point during a turn. If wrong it wears tires very quickly in situations where there are many turn.

Ideally, the SAI and camber lines should intersect at the tire/pavement interface and at the centre of the tread. When they do this is called centre point steering (The DS-21 is an example of a car with centre point steering). Most cars don't have this, instead the intersect is below grade and the cars use power steering to overcome gravity (turning the steering wheel actually lifts the body of the car). If the intersect is above grade, then the car has no inherent stability.

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But I'm a complete newbie to performance tires, and other than looking at them to see if they look like they still have tread left, how do you measure whether you are getting to that point?

You measure with a tread depth gauge, but for the problem being discussed, looking to see if the tread depth is even across the tire is good enough. tread depth gauges range from simple to complex, but you only need a cheapie for this. Amazon has them for $3.00 and up.

What/where are the wear bars?

Wear bars are places in the tread where the tread depth is shallower. When the tire wears down, these places form a visible "bar" across the surface of the tread indicating that the tire is no longer legal for road use. They are indicated by marks on the tire's shoulder wherever a wear bar is. Different tire companies have different markings--some use a triangle Michelin uses a Michelin Man ( aka Bibendum).
 
Again, what's to be made right? I'm going to get about 15k miles off my 21" tires, just about the same I've gotten off of high performance tires on every car I've owned for 25 years.

Make sure you rotate them 1/2 way (~6k miles) or you will drive the back wheels bald early. Did the same on my RX8.

I was planning on rotating the Continentals on my 21" wheels around the 5K to 6K mileage point. Only one hitch -- both rear tires are worn through to the steel belts on the inside edges at only 4600 miles. The SC is picking up my car on Tuesday and I'm quite interested in seeing what they find when they check the alignment. Had I known the Contis were going to wear that fast I would have rotated them months ago.

Prior to the Model S, I've had tire wear experiences very similar to yours, i.e., about 12k to 15k miles on a variety of high performance tires (Continental, Michelin, Bridgestone) across a number of cars (Porsche, BMW, Audi, Volvo). I've generally driven the Model S in a much more restrained fashion (barring demos) than virtually all of my previous cars, particularly the Porsche I drove for the 7 years prior to the Model S, but the tire wear is still much, much faster on the Tesla (and I had 265/35-19 Contis on the Porsche).
 
I was planning on rotating the Continentals on my 21" wheels around the 5K to 6K mileage point. Only one hitch -- both rear tires are worn through to the steel belts on the inside edges at only 4600 miles. The SC is picking up my car on Tuesday and I'm quite interested in seeing what they find when they check the alignment. Had I known the Contis were going to wear that fast I would have rotated them months ago.
Yea, that sounds like some sort of alignment problem. You've got good reason to expect some sort of compensation from Tesla on that.
 
That's pretty sad, the service center doesn't have tire equipment? I will need to check into this, as I want the car checked for alignment once received from factory.

The Dallas SC has alignment equipment. I'm just not sure how well it's calibrated. (I assume they have tire mounting and balancing equipment, but I didn't check.)
 
That's pretty sad, the service center doesn't have tire equipment? I will need to check into this, as I want the car checked for alignment once received from factory.
In talking with one of the techs in Portland once he mentioned Tesla has "levels" of service center. Level 1 is a guy in a van (dedicated Ranger), level 2 is a shop with limited stuff, 3 ups it to include some lifts and more serious hardware work, 4 I think was where tire alignment and such came in. 4's are fairly rare. Not sure if there are more levels beyond that.