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Adding Next Gen seats to an older S

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Good luck. And keep the positive attitude. you just never know what could happen once you have them installed. Would not surprise me if some time later after your car has been in the SC again (maybe more than once) and some tech without making a bid deal, just might see these newer seats and enable them thinking its an oversight. Good things happen to those folks pure of heart. You are pure of heart, aren't you? :)

Thanks! My heart is equally pure and stubborn, so this should work out fine!
 
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Just a heads up if you have the premium seats (Gen4) I dont think it'll work. They dont make a harness adapter for Gen1 to Gen4.... they only do Gen1 to Gen2.

I've been trying to make this work for a while with not luck.....
 
I just added next gens to my Model S. Seats are very nice! Really easy upgrade with adapters from Tesla.

So should I try to get airbags reprogrammed?

Also who has added the door strap?
 

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Speaking of the MSM, be sure to take the MSM out of your seat and put it in the replacement one. This will apparently save you lots of grief, as I have been told that if you don't do this the new seat won't work in your car. (I swapped mine, and everything works fine).

I didn't replace the memory module. Everything works fine, just had to set all the profile settings again.
 
As I'd posted in another thread, I was in the process of trying to add Next Gen front seats to my 2014 Model S. I had missed the window for Tesla to do it (and I didn't want to pay over $6,000...), but this is my one bugaboo with our December 2014 build: the seats are not that comfortable for long drives (which we do several times each year).

I found a set of Next Gens here in the SF Bay Area. Unfortunately for me, I didn't recognize till after I got home that one was a 2015 vintage (passenger), while the drivers seat was built in December 2016.

The passenger seat was a direct swap. One wiring harness and the air bag connector. However, when I went to replace the drivers seat, I recognized the newer seat had connectors had been totally changed by Tesla, and were not compatible with an older car. I reached out to the prior owner, who had said these seats had been in his 2013 S. I didn't really get anywhere, as he said he had a mechanic do the swap, and he said the wiring harnesses needed to be changed from seat to seat. Looking closely, this appeared to me to be a very involved process, and quite frankly, the harness in the drivers seat did not appear to ever have been touched, let alone removed, swapped for a 2013 harness, then returned to the 2016 configuration.

Not wanting to tear the seat apart to get all the wires out (there are 25 wires in the two connectors of the 2014 seat), I started looking at other options. Doing a wire by wire comparison, I found that the 2016 seat only has 24 wires. The one extra wire in the 2014 seat is red with a green stripe. Acquiring a wiring diagram for the 2014 seat, it appears this extra wire is the ground wire for the seat heater. In the 2016 seat, the seat heater ground ties into another wire before the harness, resulting in one less wire.

Otherwise, all the wires match up color for color. Since I didn't want to tear the seat apart to replace the wires, I decided to explore simply cutting off the connectors from the 2014 seat and attaching them to the 2016 one (there is also a three wire harness for the air bag mounted in the seat. The connector is also different between the two seats, though the wire colors are consistent).

A couple of points if you ever decide to pull your own seats out:

1. Be sure to turn the power off in the vehicle before disconnecting or connecting any wiring...
2. There are two different sized Torx bolts holding the seat in: the two outer rails are secured by T-40 bolts, while the inner rails are held down with T-47 bolts. Before starting this, I didn't have a T-47 wrench. I quickly found out that a T-45 socket (that I did have) won't cleanly pull these two bolts. Buy a T-47 socket and save yourself lots of aggravation...

I initially cut the connectors off the 2016 seat. In doing so, I recognized there are two blue wires of similar size and two same sized yellow wires. One of the blue wires is the power for the underseat light. I marked both sides of the cut with black ink to differentiate them. Likewise, I determined where one of the yellow wires terminated at the Memory Seat Module harness (MSM), and marked that wire similarly.

Speaking of the MSM, be sure to take the MSM out of your seat and put it in the replacement one. This will apparently save you lots of grief, as I have been told that if you don't do this the new seat won't work in your car. (I swapped mine, and everything works fine).

The 2014 has one connector with 8 wires, one with 17, and the three wire airbag connector. I put a male insulated crimp connector on each wire coming out of the seat. There is a large black, a large red, and a medium sized green/yellow wire. Each of these got a larger connector, while all the rest got a smaller one.

I really hesitated in cutting the connectors off my 2014 seat, as I worried that if this didn't work (or something shorted out), it was going to be a nightmare to remedy. I waited several days before deciding this afternoon to move forward. I pulled the driver's seat out, and proceeded to do the deed.

Working slowly and meticulously, I added a female insulated crimp connector to each wire of the 2014 seat harnesses. I had left about 4" of wire on each harness, and ignored the red/green wire in the harness. I plugged each in, checked to be sure the connections were all solid, then wrapped each connection bundle with tape. I did the same with the airbag harness.

Putting the seat into the car, I plugged the connectors into the sockets, and loosely bolted the seat down. With trepidation, I turned the car back on, and low and behold, everything works. No error messages, all the functions are there, and the memory module (while having to have settings reset) works fine. Bolted the seat all the way in, and test drove it. So much more support than the original seats!!

The last thing I need to do is go to a body shop and have the tethers installed between the door panels and the doors (new with the Next Gen seats). I looked into the airbag timing, and have been assured that the change is so minute that it is not a problem, so for now I am not going to worry about having the airbag control module refreshed...

Here are some photos. While I just finished this today, I am already glad I went this route. I knew that if I tried remove the wiring harnesses completely from the seat that I would screw something up majorly...

Here are a few photos;

View attachment 285819 View attachment 285820 View attachment 285821View attachment 285822

hi,

A quick question, did you ever get a wiring diagram for the next gen seats? I appear to have 4 extra wires on the new seat compared to the old, but I can't test them without accidentally setting the seat airbag off. Any help gratefully received! Kind reards, Peter
 
I did the swap to. From performance Seats 2014 to next gen 2016
I did not only changed the front seats but back seats and side bolsters.
I used the wiring harnas from old seat on the New seats. It is easy to do, all you change is under the seat and there is no need to open the seat. You just need to remove the bottom side panels (2 screws)
As I had a complete Interior I also changed all the door panels and ceiling (from tan to black)

hi,
Sre you saying that if you take off the side panels, you can use all the wiring from the 2014 seat? What about the in - seat airbag? was that just left unconnected? Any help gratefully received! Kind regards, Peter
 
Hi Gard.
I recently installed 2019/2020 GEN4 seats in my 2013, and i live in Oslo.
Let me know if you need any help.

Hello,

I am getting ready to install Gen 4 seats in my 2013, did you use adapters listed in this thread from Tesla or did you splice them? Did you have to retime airbags? Did you have to order additional bolsters, etc to make work?

Thank you!!

Michael
 
As I'd posted in another thread, I was in the process of trying to add Next Gen front seats to my 2014 Model S. I had missed the window for Tesla to do it (and I didn't want to pay over $6,000...), but this is my one bugaboo with our December 2014 build: the seats are not that comfortable for long drives (which we do several times each year).

I found a set of Next Gens here in the SF Bay Area. Unfortunately for me, I didn't recognize till after I got home that one was a 2015 vintage (passenger), while the drivers seat was built in December 2016.

The passenger seat was a direct swap. One wiring harness and the air bag connector. However, when I went to replace the drivers seat, I recognized the newer seat had connectors had been totally changed by Tesla, and were not compatible with an older car. I reached out to the prior owner, who had said these seats had been in his 2013 S. I didn't really get anywhere, as he said he had a mechanic do the swap, and he said the wiring harnesses needed to be changed from seat to seat. Looking closely, this appeared to me to be a very involved process, and quite frankly, the harness in the drivers seat did not appear to ever have been touched, let alone removed, swapped for a 2013 harness, then returned to the 2016 configuration.

Not wanting to tear the seat apart to get all the wires out (there are 25 wires in the two connectors of the 2014 seat), I started looking at other options. Doing a wire by wire comparison, I found that the 2016 seat only has 24 wires. The one extra wire in the 2014 seat is red with a green stripe. Acquiring a wiring diagram for the 2014 seat, it appears this extra wire is the ground wire for the seat heater. In the 2016 seat, the seat heater ground ties into another wire before the harness, resulting in one less wire.

Otherwise, all the wires match up color for color. Since I didn't want to tear the seat apart to replace the wires, I decided to explore simply cutting off the connectors from the 2014 seat and attaching them to the 2016 one (there is also a three wire harness for the air bag mounted in the seat. The connector is also different between the two seats, though the wire colors are consistent).

A couple of points if you ever decide to pull your own seats out:

1. Be sure to turn the power off in the vehicle before disconnecting or connecting any wiring...
2. There are two different sized Torx bolts holding the seat in: the two outer rails are secured by T-40 bolts, while the inner rails are held down with T-47 bolts. Before starting this, I didn't have a T-47 wrench. I quickly found out that a T-45 socket (that I did have) won't cleanly pull these two bolts. Buy a T-47 socket and save yourself lots of aggravation...

I initially cut the connectors off the 2016 seat. In doing so, I recognized there are two blue wires of similar size and two same sized yellow wires. One of the blue wires is the power for the underseat light. I marked both sides of the cut with black ink to differentiate them. Likewise, I determined where one of the yellow wires terminated at the Memory Seat Module harness (MSM), and marked that wire similarly.

Speaking of the MSM, be sure to take the MSM out of your seat and put it in the replacement one. This will apparently save you lots of grief, as I have been told that if you don't do this the new seat won't work in your car. (I swapped mine, and everything works fine).

The 2014 has one connector with 8 wires, one with 17, and the three wire airbag connector. I put a male insulated crimp connector on each wire coming out of the seat. There is a large black, a large red, and a medium sized green/yellow wire. Each of these got a larger connector, while all the rest got a smaller one.

I really hesitated in cutting the connectors off my 2014 seat, as I worried that if this didn't work (or something shorted out), it was going to be a nightmare to remedy. I waited several days before deciding this afternoon to move forward. I pulled the driver's seat out, and proceeded to do the deed.

Working slowly and meticulously, I added a female insulated crimp connector to each wire of the 2014 seat harnesses. I had left about 4" of wire on each harness, and ignored the red/green wire in the harness. I plugged each in, checked to be sure the connections were all solid, then wrapped each connection bundle with tape. I did the same with the airbag harness.

Putting the seat into the car, I plugged the connectors into the sockets, and loosely bolted the seat down. With trepidation, I turned the car back on, and low and behold, everything works. No error messages, all the functions are there, and the memory module (while having to have settings reset) works fine. Bolted the seat all the way in, and test drove it. So much more support than the original seats!!

The last thing I need to do is go to a body shop and have the tethers installed between the door panels and the doors (new with the Next Gen seats). I looked into the airbag timing, and have been assured that the change is so minute that it is not a problem, so for now I am not going to worry about having the airbag control module refreshed...

Here are some photos. While I just finished this today, I am already glad I went this route. I knew that if I tried remove the wiring harnesses completely from the seat that I would screw something up majorly...

Here are a few photos;

View attachment 285819 View attachment 285820 View attachment 285821View attachment 285822


As I'd posted in another thread, I was in the process of trying to add Next Gen front seats to my 2014 Model S. I had missed the window for Tesla to do it (and I didn't want to pay over $6,000...), but this is my one bugaboo with our December 2014 build: the seats are not that comfortable for long drives (which we do several times each year).

I found a set of Next Gens here in the SF Bay Area. Unfortunately for me, I didn't recognize till after I got home that one was a 2015 vintage (passenger), while the drivers seat was built in December 2016.

The passenger seat was a direct swap. One wiring harness and the air bag connector. However, when I went to replace the drivers seat, I recognized the newer seat had connectors had been totally changed by Tesla, and were not compatible with an older car. I reached out to the prior owner, who had said these seats had been in his 2013 S. I didn't really get anywhere, as he said he had a mechanic do the swap, and he said the wiring harnesses needed to be changed from seat to seat. Looking closely, this appeared to me to be a very involved process, and quite frankly, the harness in the drivers seat did not appear to ever have been touched, let alone removed, swapped for a 2013 harness, then returned to the 2016 configuration.

Not wanting to tear the seat apart to get all the wires out (there are 25 wires in the two connectors of the 2014 seat), I started looking at other options. Doing a wire by wire comparison, I found that the 2016 seat only has 24 wires. The one extra wire in the 2014 seat is red with a green stripe. Acquiring a wiring diagram for the 2014 seat, it appears this extra wire is the ground wire for the seat heater. In the 2016 seat, the seat heater ground ties into another wire before the harness, resulting in one less wire.

Otherwise, all the wires match up color for color. Since I didn't want to tear the seat apart to replace the wires, I decided to explore simply cutting off the connectors from the 2014 seat and attaching them to the 2016 one (there is also a three wire harness for the air bag mounted in the seat. The connector is also different between the two seats, though the wire colors are consistent).

A couple of points if you ever decide to pull your own seats out:

1. Be sure to turn the power off in the vehicle before disconnecting or connecting any wiring...
2. There are two different sized Torx bolts holding the seat in: the two outer rails are secured by T-40 bolts, while the inner rails are held down with T-47 bolts. Before starting this, I didn't have a T-47 wrench. I quickly found out that a T-45 socket (that I did have) won't cleanly pull these two bolts. Buy a T-47 socket and save yourself lots of aggravation...

I initially cut the connectors off the 2016 seat. In doing so, I recognized there are two blue wires of similar size and two same sized yellow wires. One of the blue wires is the power for the underseat light. I marked both sides of the cut with black ink to differentiate them. Likewise, I determined where one of the yellow wires terminated at the Memory Seat Module harness (MSM), and marked that wire similarly.

Speaking of the MSM, be sure to take the MSM out of your seat and put it in the replacement one. This will apparently save you lots of grief, as I have been told that if you don't do this the new seat won't work in your car. (I swapped mine, and everything works fine).

The 2014 has one connector with 8 wires, one with 17, and the three wire airbag connector. I put a male insulated crimp connector on each wire coming out of the seat. There is a large black, a large red, and a medium sized green/yellow wire. Each of these got a larger connector, while all the rest got a smaller one.

I really hesitated in cutting the connectors off my 2014 seat, as I worried that if this didn't work (or something shorted out), it was going to be a nightmare to remedy. I waited several days before deciding this afternoon to move forward. I pulled the driver's seat out, and proceeded to do the deed.

Working slowly and meticulously, I added a female insulated crimp connector to each wire of the 2014 seat harnesses. I had left about 4" of wire on each harness, and ignored the red/green wire in the harness. I plugged each in, checked to be sure the connections were all solid, then wrapped each connection bundle with tape. I did the same with the airbag harness.

Putting the seat into the car, I plugged the connectors into the sockets, and loosely bolted the seat down. With trepidation, I turned the car back on, and low and behold, everything works. No error messages, all the functions are there, and the memory module (while having to have settings reset) works fine. Bolted the seat all the way in, and test drove it. So much more support than the original seats!!

The last thing I need to do is go to a body shop and have the tethers installed between the door panels and the doors (new with the Next Gen seats). I looked into the airbag timing, and have been assured that the change is so minute that it is not a problem, so for now I am not going to worry about having the airbag control module refreshed...

Here are some photos. While I just finished this today, I am already glad I went this route. I knew that if I tried remove the wiring harnesses completely from the seat that I would screw something up majorly...

Here are a few photos;

View attachment 285819 View attachment 285820 View attachment 285821View attachment 285822

I currently have a 2013 P85 now a P90 :) I have sound some 2nd gen seats from a 2015 model S. Are these strait plug n play minus the reprogramming for airbags ?
 

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Thanks!
Looking at your post history I see you installed black next-gens in January, and have now swapped to the cream Premium seats. If I jump straight to the premium solution, are these jumpers still required, or by splicing direct you wouldn't need these?



In fact I do.

1116327-00-A - ASY, JUMPER, SIAB-SEAL TO UNSEAL, MDLS?
1116327-00-A - ASY, JUMPER, SIAB-SEAL TO UNSEAL, MDLS?
1139367-00-A - MS SEAT HRN PATCH NONMEM- SEAL TO UNSEAL
1139366-00-A - MS SEAT HRN PATCH MEMORY-SEAL TO UNSEAL
 
Thanks!
Looking at your post history I see you installed black next-gens in January, and have now swapped to the cream Premium seats. If I jump straight to the premium solution, are these jumpers still required, or by splicing direct you wouldn't need these?

You don't need these adapters if you swap to 2018 seats.
But I must warn you, swapping to 2018 seats is quite a big job. Basically you need to move all controllers and most wiring from your old seats. Some is plug and play, some takes splicing.
Worth it though, 2018 premium seats are just so much better.
 
Hi GUys,
i plan to build a office chair out of a latest model s seat. And i want to control the adjustment and maybe heating/cooling.
Do anyone of you have a wiring plan? or is a connection to the head unit inside a tesla needed?
 
so i have a 2014 model S - and just bought 2019 seats... latest next gen model.. - should I remove all elektronic and transfere the old ele.. from the 2014 seats? ore just try to rewire? does anyone have diagram? my local tesla shop is not very "into it :)"
 

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