beastmode13
Member
Oh yeah. Those. Those could easily remedied. As with any suspension adjustments. Final torque should be applied when the suspension is under load.
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Adjusting rear coilovers ride height
- Thread starter MarcG
- Start date
Oh yeah. Those. Those could easily remedied. As with any suspension adjustments. Final torque should be applied when the suspension is under load.
So I’m finally planning on doing this work over the weekend given limitations on what fun activities can be experienced these days.
Does anyone know the torque specs on the lower control arm bolts pictured in blue and green below?
The UPP manual mentions 85 ft-lbs toward the end but is a bit vague on which bolts this applies to.
Model 3 - Coilover Suspension Installation Guide - Unplugged Performance
@mcbarnet007 @SD_Engnr @beastmode13
beastmode13
Member
gcmak
Member
+1 to the others who responded saying they do not need to unbolt the rear to adjust. Just did this yesterday to raise the height of the car. Gotta have some muscle but its definitely adjustable and a decent workout! Having the perch up top doesn't give you unlimited space but way more than if it were at the bottom.
Good luck with the UPP adjustment though, you'll get it!
So I spent a couple of hours earlier today trying to do this height adjustment, but ran into a problem where the outer of the two lower control arm bolts (the one highlighted in blue in the image above) wasn’t coming loose.
With the wheel off, I tried to raise and lower the control arm to many varying levels, including compression beyond what I thought would be the ride height, but the bolt wouldn’t come out. It twisted fine, but wasn’t coming loose enough to be removed. The inner one (highlighted in green) came out just fine.
Short of taking a hammer to it, does anyone (@mcbarnet007 @beastmode13 @SD_Engnr etc.) have any tips on how to get this bolt loose enough to be able to remove it?
With the wheel off, I tried to raise and lower the control arm to many varying levels, including compression beyond what I thought would be the ride height, but the bolt wouldn’t come out. It twisted fine, but wasn’t coming loose enough to be removed. The inner one (highlighted in green) came out just fine.
Short of taking a hammer to it, does anyone (@mcbarnet007 @beastmode13 @SD_Engnr etc.) have any tips on how to get this bolt loose enough to be able to remove it?
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beastmode13
Member
Pull on the lower portion of the brake rotor to relieve the weight that’s pivoting into the lower arm. You might still end up using a mallet, which will be fine.
Got it, thanks! I'll try that tomorrow. Did you find that both bolts would come up when the spring is compressed to the same level, or do they have different loads from each other necessitating different compression levels to remove them?
Success!!!
I was finally able to pull both bolts without having to bang at anything, so I was able to remove the spring assembly to adjust the perch height.
Turns out I had to first remove the outer bolt (highlighted in blue above) by compressing the spring using a jack underneath the control arm by the strut area, as @mcbarnet007 had suggested, then wiggle the rotor assemble to find the position that would loosen the bolt enough to remove it, as @beastmode13 had suggested. Thanks to you both for the help!
Oh and to answer my own question, yes it does turn out that different spring compression levels are needed to remove the two bolts. So after removing the outer one, I had to change the position of my second jack for the inner one.
All in all, I'm actually glad I had to remove the perch to adjust it, as it was filthy and took a good cleaning to get at the dirt stuck inside the threads. The first image below shows how much there is still in there after a quick hose-off, which was definitely not enough cleaning to twist the perch collar without hearing grinding noises. Also attached other images for your viewing pleasure.
I was finally able to pull both bolts without having to bang at anything, so I was able to remove the spring assembly to adjust the perch height.
Turns out I had to first remove the outer bolt (highlighted in blue above) by compressing the spring using a jack underneath the control arm by the strut area, as @mcbarnet007 had suggested, then wiggle the rotor assemble to find the position that would loosen the bolt enough to remove it, as @beastmode13 had suggested. Thanks to you both for the help!
Oh and to answer my own question, yes it does turn out that different spring compression levels are needed to remove the two bolts. So after removing the outer one, I had to change the position of my second jack for the inner one.
All in all, I'm actually glad I had to remove the perch to adjust it, as it was filthy and took a good cleaning to get at the dirt stuck inside the threads. The first image below shows how much there is still in there after a quick hose-off, which was definitely not enough cleaning to twist the perch collar without hearing grinding noises. Also attached other images for your viewing pleasure.
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All the MPP instructions are under the "Tech Center" link on their site:
Tech Center | Mountain Pass Performance
EDIT: never mind, I get it, looks like MPP hid the video for some reason, no idea why. @MountainPass what's up with that?
Tech Center | Mountain Pass Performance
EDIT: never mind, I get it, looks like MPP hid the video for some reason, no idea why. @MountainPass what's up with that?
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HP Autosport
Former Vendor
We have performed many Model 3 coilover(MPP and KW) installs and height adjustment is always a pain because the springs have so much preload in them. Thrust sheets can help and from your photos the UP kit has them but there is still way too much tension in the springs.
What we have done on the E8x/E9x/F2X/F3x/F8x BMWs is a combination of thrust sheets, thrust bearings, and helper springs. The helpers will keep the main spring from coming loose and allow you to adjust the ride height somewhat easier. Having helpers also allow you to remove the springs without dropping the lower control arm(track guys like this feature).
HPA Quick Change Rear Spring Kit
You can also try just adding the thrust bearings we have and see if that will allow you to adjust height(depends on spring tension) without dropping the lower control arm.
BMW_Thrust_Bearing
If there is enough friction on the adjuster base to the control arm/chassis you may be able to turn the adjuster with a spanner wrench. What we found work well on the threads of the adjuster is Wurth HHS Plus.
https://amzn.to/302Pqi8
What we have done on the E8x/E9x/F2X/F3x/F8x BMWs is a combination of thrust sheets, thrust bearings, and helper springs. The helpers will keep the main spring from coming loose and allow you to adjust the ride height somewhat easier. Having helpers also allow you to remove the springs without dropping the lower control arm(track guys like this feature).
HPA Quick Change Rear Spring Kit
You can also try just adding the thrust bearings we have and see if that will allow you to adjust height(depends on spring tension) without dropping the lower control arm.
BMW_Thrust_Bearing
If there is enough friction on the adjuster base to the control arm/chassis you may be able to turn the adjuster with a spanner wrench. What we found work well on the threads of the adjuster is Wurth HHS Plus.
https://amzn.to/302Pqi8
Having KW V3 on my own car, I guess it will be the same as MPP.
As HP Autosport says above, its very hard to adjust this without dropping the suspension, as the preload makes it very hard to turn the adjustment. You need like "a lot" for adjustment to drop for instance 5mm, thats many rounds!
So since this is so much preloaded it also means that you might experience the spring seat also turning and therefore stopping adjustments. So after I did this twice, I have now started to drop the rear suspension for doing adjustments.
So I think this is easier then:;
1. undo bolt for plastic cover under car, remove plastic cover
2. jack up car on rear jackstand by wheel
3. remove wheel
4. put a jack and a piece of wood below rear suspension, jack it beneath rear shock bolt
5. undo upper two bolts for rear shock
6. undo lower bolt that is facing you (not the shock one, the other)
7. jack the jack under shock untill you can pull the bolt out
8. drop the rear suspension slowly down, how the spring unseats and you can remove the adjustment assembly
This is much quicker and much less swearing than doing like 1000 adjustments in a tight space.
Also the provided tool by KW at least is very "Unfriendly" for a human hand, so its easier to do this out of the car.
Trus bearings will help a bit, but still the issue is that its so tight in there and you need a lot of adjustment.
As HP Autosport says above, its very hard to adjust this without dropping the suspension, as the preload makes it very hard to turn the adjustment. You need like "a lot" for adjustment to drop for instance 5mm, thats many rounds!
So since this is so much preloaded it also means that you might experience the spring seat also turning and therefore stopping adjustments. So after I did this twice, I have now started to drop the rear suspension for doing adjustments.
So I think this is easier then:;
1. undo bolt for plastic cover under car, remove plastic cover
2. jack up car on rear jackstand by wheel
3. remove wheel
4. put a jack and a piece of wood below rear suspension, jack it beneath rear shock bolt
5. undo upper two bolts for rear shock
6. undo lower bolt that is facing you (not the shock one, the other)
7. jack the jack under shock untill you can pull the bolt out
8. drop the rear suspension slowly down, how the spring unseats and you can remove the adjustment assembly
This is much quicker and much less swearing than doing like 1000 adjustments in a tight space.
Also the provided tool by KW at least is very "Unfriendly" for a human hand, so its easier to do this out of the car.
Trus bearings will help a bit, but still the issue is that its so tight in there and you need a lot of adjustment.
lowered the MPP fronts earlier. that was pretty simple with nothing in the way. the rears were a different story. I couldn't get a lock on with the spanner to pull due to the limited space. i can lock the spanner to push in but that requires some different type of strength i don't have. i'm guessing i'm going to need to drop the control arm bolt. do you need a second jack to make this happen?
edit- i assume you also spin the spring perch towards the right to lower like the front?
edit- i assume you also spin the spring perch towards the right to lower like the front?
You can use one jack if you prop a jack stand under the spring arm, then lift the car up even more using the jack. I prefer the 2 jack method though!
The rear spring is under quite a bit of tension, I have been able to adjust it without releasing the tension, but it hurts the hands.
Ok since I don’t have coilovers and I’m anticipating grabbing some soon this might be real stupid question.
Can’t you use a spring compressor from autozone while the car is jacked up to release tension on the suspension and then when there’s no tension on the perch...adjust the height? I think there’s room but it seems like a faster solution than unbolting and rebolting suspension.
Can’t you use a spring compressor from autozone while the car is jacked up to release tension on the suspension and then when there’s no tension on the perch...adjust the height? I think there’s room but it seems like a faster solution than unbolting and rebolting suspension.
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