Aftermarker Sound Upgrade of 3 Front 4" speakers

[Mrbrock]

Hi all,

I have a Tesla M3 Performance (purchase) and a BMW 530e, and the lease is expiring on that soon, and it has a couple of speaker upgrades I had done last year before I bought my Model 3.

I was wondering if the two Match speaker sets linked below will replace the TM3 front door and dashboard speakers. I spoke with my audio guy, he said that the Match woofers below will NOT replace the front door 8” subwoofers. Not sure why!!

MATCH Under-seat 8" Subwoofers:
MATCH MW 8BMW-D Package Two 8" shallow-mount component subwoofers — designed to fit select BMW vehicles with under-seat subs at Crutchfield

MATCH 4" Front Door Mid-Range Speakers and 1" Dome Tweeters:
MATCH MS 42C-BMW.2 2-way component speaker system designed for select BMWs at Crutchfield

Thanks

Did you try the 4” Match speakers in the Model 3? I am also coming from a BMW and see a lot of similarities in stock speaker size/design.

I don’t think the subs will work since they are lower impedance and designed to go in the floor under the seats of the BMW vs in the door of the Tesla. Also they are too big anyways, 8” vs 7”.

 

[dfwatt]

Did you try the 4” Match speakers in the Model 3? I am also coming from a BMW and see a lot of similarities in stock speaker size/design.

I don’t think the subs will work since they are lower impedance and designed to go in the floor under the seats of the BMW vs in the door of the Tesla. Also they are too big anyways, 8” vs 7”.

See the beginning of this thread. The best choice proven to work and proven to fit is the infinity 4022. There is a very extensive discussion under the audiophile thread and the first page of this thread, including Solutions on how to make a 4 screw basket like the Infiniti work with a 3 screw basket bracket

 

[Mr X]

View attachment 511366 View attachment 511367
definitely worth it since a downfiring sub enclosure fits right in the storage cubby. But I am a total bass head.

Where you get it done and how much?


All I really need is some kick from the rear

 

[Mrbrock]

See the beginning of this thread. The best choice proven to work and proven to fit is the infinity 4022. There is a very extensive discussion under the audiophile thread and the first page of this thread, including Solutions on how to make a 4 screw basket like the Infiniti work with a 3 screw basket bracket

I trust that you like the sound of the Infinity. I like Infinity speakers too. However, using an aluminum can tab to hold the speaker down doesn’t work for me if there is a cleaner option, I.e. a speaker that exists with 3 mounting tabs that would be a direct replacement. Ingenious hacks are great, but that would be my last resort if a three tab speaker doesn’t work. I appreciate that your fix has been made to work but it doesn’t answer my question or sanjuvarma’s. Will a 3 tab speaker from a BMW (or aftermarket speaker designed for BMW) fit? If you haven’t personally tried it then you can’t answer the question. I can read and the fact that I’m posting in this thread shows I understand that the Infinity speakers are a great option. I read quite a bit of the audiophile thread and don’t recall any mention of someone trying a BMW speaker. If there was I missed out and hope you can please point it out to me so my curiosity will be satisfied. I was hoping that someone had tried a BMW speaker and can honestly say it doesn’t fit because having to modify a speaker to fit isn’t the ideal solution to me. I searched for Tesla Model 3 BMW speaker and the only result was sanjuvarma’s question that was never answered.

 

[dfwatt]

I trust that you like the sound of the Infinity. I like Infinity speakers too. However, using an aluminum can tab to hold the speaker down doesn’t work for me if there is a cleaner option, I.e. a speaker that exists with 3 mounting tabs that would be a direct replacement. Ingenious hacks are great, but that would be my last resort if a three tab speaker doesn’t work. I appreciate that your fix has been made to work but it doesn’t answer my question or sanjuvarma’s. Will a 3 tab speaker from a BMW (or aftermarket speaker designed for BMW) fit? If you haven’t personally tried it then you can’t answer the question. I can read and the fact that I’m posting in this thread shows I understand that the Infinity speakers are a great option. I read quite a bit of the audiophile thread and don’t recall any mention of someone trying a BMW speaker. If there was I missed out and hope you can please point it out to me so my curiosity will be satisfied. I was hoping that someone had tried a BMW speaker and can honestly say it doesn’t fit because having to modify a speaker to fit isn’t the ideal solution to me. I searched for Tesla Model 3 BMW speaker and the only result was sanjuvarma’s question that was never answered.

I believe there's a link from someone who is 3D printing a bracket, but I don't have that link at my fingertips. It is on the audiophile thread though. I guess if you are concerned that my solution doesn't work or isn't secure enough I can reassure you that it has held up without loosening for more than a year. There is absolutely no vibration from the speakers in the dash at all. I think you're potentially trading a smaller problem for a larger one if it turns out that the BMW aftermarket part doesn't clear the dash or fit well at all. But by all means install that and report back to us.

 

[Mrbrock]

So I took out both speakers and compared. They are essentially identical. In fact, if you look at the tweeter grills they are identical. The actual tweeters are slightly different but the speaker size and mounting tabs are the same. The only issue I see with using BMW speakers or aftermarket speakers intended for BMW direct replacement is the different wiring connectors used although they look similar (if you look at the picture you’ll see the differences). I have ordered some JBL GX402 speakers as a backup (same specs as the Infinity but $30/pr) and will likely try the set of GRS coaxial BMW speakers and just figure out how to do the wiring. My only hang up right now is spending an extra $90 per pair to not have to worry about brackets. I did find the site for the brackets in the other post and they look great, just something else needed for the install. They would make the difference only $70 per pair but right now I am leaning towards the JBLs without the brackets and trying to make an install clip like your can tab but stronger and a little more OEM looking. In doing research, the Morel Hybrid Integra 402 speakers do not have mounting clips that are part of the frame. They clip on and are positionable based on your hole pattern (there is a picture of those too). Anyone have any idea if anyone makes those outside of Morel? Then all we’d have to do is cut off the two unused mounting tabs and add one of these clips in the right spot and it would be very OEM like without having to buy custom framed speakers. Most any 4 hole 4” speakers could be made to fit as long as the magnet isn’t too big and the mounting depth is correct.

BMW X3 Center Dash Speaker and Tweeter

Tesla Center Dash Speaker and Tweeter

BMW right, Tesla Left

Tesla Left, BMW right

Tesla Left, BMW right

Tesla Left, BMW right

Morel mounting clips

 

[dfwatt]

So I took out both speakers and compared. They are essentially identical. In fact, if you look at the tweeter grills they are identical. The actual tweeters are slightly different but the speaker size and mounting tabs are the same. The only issue I see with using BMW speakers or aftermarket speakers intended for BMW direct replacement is the different wiring connectors used although they look similar (if you look at the picture you’ll see the differences). I have ordered some JBL GX402 speakers as a backup (same specs as the Infinity but $30/pr) and will likely try the set of GRS coaxial BMW speakers and just figure out how to do the wiring. My only hang up right now is spending an extra $90 per pair to not have to worry about brackets. I did find the site for the brackets in the other post and they look great, just something else needed for the install. They would make the difference only $70 per pair but right now I am leaning towards the JBLs without the brackets and trying to make an install clip like your can tab but stronger and a little more OEM looking. In doing research, the Morel Hybrid Integra 402 speakers do not have mounting clips that are part of the frame. They clip on and are positionable based on your hole pattern (there is a picture of those too). Anyone have any idea if anyone makes those outside of Morel? Then all we’d have to do is cut off the two unused mounting tabs and add one of these clips in the right spot and it would be very OEM like without having to buy custom framed speakers. Most any 4 hole 4” speakers could be made to fit as long as the magnet isn’t too big and the mounting depth is correct.

View attachment 526575
BMW X3 Center Dash Speaker and Tweeter
View attachment 526576
Tesla Center Dash Speaker and Tweeter
View attachment 526577
BMW right, Tesla Left
View attachment 526578
Tesla Left, BMW right
View attachment 526579
Tesla Left, BMW right
View attachment 526580
Tesla Left, BMW right
View attachment 526581
Morel mounting clips

Well it looks like you've done a lot of work and a lot of research except for the misinformation about the JBL GX 402 being identical to the Infinity 4022. They are not identical and I believe it will not fit because the Tweeter sticks up above the plane of the speaker significantly. I repeat it will not fit in the front dash. I doubt it would fit in the rear either. There's a decent possibility that both the BMW and the Tesla speaker are virtually identical, likely supplied from the same third-party to both BMW and Tesla. So the question again would be what is gained by that swap?

I'm not sure why you're Reinventing the wheel here. Many folks have used the infinity 4022 in the front Dash without issue. And there's plenty of evidence that it significantly improves the sound relative to the stock speaker. Again the pioneering work on all this was done by @flashflooder more than a year ago on this forum. So I reiterate my question to you why are you trying to reinvent the wheel? It seems to me that you're obsessively focused on making sure the mounting brackets are secure, while ignoring the question of whether you're actually improving the sound system and dismissing an establish solution because you don't like jury-rigging things. I understand your concern about an aluminum tab somehow appearing flimsy so get one of those 3D brackets by all means. But let's not lose the forest for the trees here.

 

[Mrbrock]

Why would anybody think about changing speakers in their car? If Elon the Great decided that we should only have the choice between the partial premium and premium interiors/sound systems, then shouldn’t we accept that there are no other options? Has it ever crossed your mind that not everybody wants to have the same car? While I am thankful that you and flashflooder pioneered the Infinity speaker option showing what is possible, it does not mean I want to do the exact same thing as you two. Did you see the thread where someone mentioned they were developing a drop in speaker that required no additional modification? And how many people replied that they’d love that option? Obviously they didn’t want to settle for the Infinity speakers that are apparently the best and only speaker option for a Model 3. If I had $1,000 to devote solely to speakers I’d drop in 3 or the aforementioned Morels in the front and be done. It would look completely stock and that is what I’d prefer. Unfortunately for me, I don’t have that extra money right now and while you seem happy to take a short cut, I don’t want to do that at this point. I stated that before, just because your seltzer tab clip works for you, it doesn’t for me. Please stop telling me what worked for you will work for me. It’s a $40k car, I don’t want can tabs holding things together in mine.

Yes, the JBL has a tweeter that slightly protrudes more than the Infinity, did you assume as a petulant while I missed that? They are made by the same company, the performance specs of the speaker are the same (3ohm which is the most important of all in regards to keeping volume and wear and tear on the amp the same with new speakers) and they happen to be $15 a pair cheaper which since I am basically buying 4 to use 3, makes the 4th one free compared the the Infinity set. Also note that the Tesla stock speaker frame has a thickness to it that is about the same as the JBL tweeter protrudes and said JBL speaker doesn’t have a thick frame. If you want to provide help, you should have asked me if took note of the protruding tweeter on the JBL.

Please stop lecturing me like a petulant child and you are the only person who knows what’s best for me. I came here like everyone else seeking advice. I read what was there and it didn’t answer my questions. I said it before and I’ll say it again, if you can’t answer my question, don’t say anything at all. You believe something won’t work? Have you tried it? No? Then shut it. This from the guy who said Tesla and BMW speakers weren’t the same size and mounting. If you don’t know, don’t put wrong information out there. If you have tried the JBL GX 402 in a Model 3 and it didn’t work, please show me the post with pictures where you documented this and I will apologize and tuck my tail and take what is coming to me.

 

[dfwatt]

Why would anybody think about changing speakers in their car? If Elon the Great decided that we should only have the choice between the partial premium and premium interiors/sound systems, then shouldn’t we accept that there are no other options? Has it ever crossed your mind that not everybody wants to have the same car? While I am thankful that you and flashflooder pioneered the Infinity speaker option showing what is possible, it does not mean I want to do the exact same thing as you two. Did you see the thread where someone mentioned they were developing a drop in speaker that required no additional modification? And how many people replied that they’d love that option? Obviously they didn’t want to settle for the Infinity speakers that are apparently the best and only speaker option for a Model 3. If I had $1,000 to devote solely to speakers I’d drop in 3 or the aforementioned Morels in the front and be done. It would look completely stock and that is what I’d prefer. Unfortunately for me, I don’t have that extra money right now and while you seem happy to take a short cut, I don’t want to do that at this point. I stated that before, just because your seltzer tab clip works for you, it doesn’t for me. Please stop telling me what worked for you will work for me. It’s a $40k car, I don’t want can tabs holding things together in mine.

Yes, the JBL has a tweeter that slightly protrudes more than the Infinity, did you assume as a petulant while I missed that? They are made by the same company, the performance specs of the speaker are the same (3ohm which is the most important of all in regards to keeping volume and wear and tear on the amp the same with new speakers) and they happen to be $15 a pair cheaper which since I am basically buying 4 to use 3, makes the 4th one free compared the the Infinity set. Also note that the Tesla stock speaker frame has a thickness to it that is about the same as the JBL tweeter protrudes and said JBL speaker doesn’t have a thick frame. If you want to provide help, you should have asked me if took note of the protruding tweeter on the JBL.

Please stop lecturing me like a petulant child and you are the only person who knows what’s best for me. I came here like everyone else seeking advice. I read what was there and it didn’t answer my questions. I said it before and I’ll say it again, if you can’t answer my question, don’t say anything at all. You believe something won’t work? Have you tried it? No? Then shut it. This from the guy who said Tesla and BMW speakers weren’t the same size and mounting. If you don’t know, don’t put wrong information out there. If you have tried the JBL GX 402 in a Model 3 and it didn’t work, please show me the post with pictures where you documented this and I will apologize and tuck my tail and take what is coming to me.

You're on your own my friend. You got all the answers and you're incredibly defensive about being challenged so like I said. You figure it out

 

[Mrbrock]

I don’t have answers which is why I came here for advice. Advice is a suggestion. I am grateful for suggestions. Telling someone something doesn’t work (without proof) is not a suggestion. It’s bad advice. If anywhere in this post or the audiophile post someone had mentioned that they had tried the JBLs and they didn’t work I would have taken that advice and looked elsewhere. You blindly saying they won’t fit based on looking at a picture is just plain bad advice. I was going to do this with or without your blessing. If you wanted to be helpful you should have said, “no one has tried those particular speakers yet, please let us know if they work so we know if we have more options.” That is how communities like this work together and build things together. Saying what works or doesn’t work based on trial and error. Not blind speculation.

 

[Mrbrock]

Why would anybody think about changing speakers in their car? If Elon the Great decided that we should only have the choice between the partial premium and premium interiors/sound systems, then shouldn’t we accept that there are no other options? Has it ever crossed your mind that not everybody wants to have the same car? While I am thankful that you and flashflooder pioneered the Infinity speaker option showing what is possible, it does not mean I want to do the exact same thing as you two. Did you see the thread where someone mentioned they were developing a drop in speaker that required no additional modification? And how many people replied that they’d love that option? Obviously they didn’t want to settle for the Infinity speakers that are apparently the best and only speaker option for a Model 3. If I had $1,000 to devote solely to speakers I’d drop in 3 or the aforementioned Morels in the front and be done. It would look completely stock and that is what I’d prefer. Unfortunately for me, I don’t have that extra money right now and while you seem happy to take a short cut, I don’t want to do that at this point. I stated that before, just because your seltzer tab clip works for you, it doesn’t for me. Please stop telling me what worked for you will work for me. It’s a $40k car, I don’t want can tabs holding things together in mine.

Yes, the JBL has a tweeter that slightly protrudes more than the Infinity, did you assume as a petulant while I missed that? They are made by the same company, the performance specs of the speaker are the same (3ohm which is the most important of all in regards to keeping volume and wear and tear on the amp the same with new speakers) and they happen to be $15 a pair cheaper which since I am basically buying 4 to use 3, makes the 4th one free compared the the Infinity set. Also note that the Tesla stock speaker frame has a thickness to it that is about the same as the JBL tweeter protrudes and said JBL speaker doesn’t have a thick frame. If you want to provide help, you should have asked me if took note of the protruding tweeter on the JBL.

Please stop lecturing me like a petulant child and you are the only person who knows what’s best for me. I came here like everyone else seeking advice. I read what was there and it didn’t answer my questions. I said it before and I’ll say it again, if you can’t answer my question, don’t say anything at all. You believe something won’t work? Have you tried it? No? Then shut it. This from the guy who said Tesla and BMW speakers weren’t the same size and mounting. If you don’t know, don’t put wrong information out there. If you have tried the JBL GX 402 in a Model 3 and it didn’t work, please show me the post with pictures where you documented this and I will apologize and tuck my tail and take what is coming to me.

Just wanted to give a quick update on my project. As is, the JBL speakers don’t work, however with a little trimming of the tweeter directional ring, they fit just fine. However, I don’t like the lack of a true third mounting tab and with the thinner tabs on aftermarket speakers, the screws go too far into the grommets and actually deform them so they pop out of their mounts. Something I am not happy with. I will detail the rest of my upgrade in another post but just wanted to stay true to my word and let you know that I wasn’t happy with the JBLs, but they can be made to work. Infinity don’t require any mods but if for some reason you can’t find Infinity and JBL is available they can be made to work.

Just a couple teaser pics of what I ended up doing.

 

[Idkorcare]

FWIW Polk DB402 fit with the same effort as the Infinitys, I replaced all 7 4” with them. I use to professionally install car stereo for over 10 yrs about 10 yrs ago. Back then Infinity and Polk were fairly comparable except Polk sounded a little more midrange focused and Infinitys were a little brighter.

 

[darnelli]

FWIW Polk DB402 fit with the same effort as the Infinitys, I replaced all 7 4” with them. I use to professionally install car stereo for over 10 yrs about 10 yrs ago. Back then Infinity and Polk were fairly comparable except Polk sounded a little more midrange focused and Infinitys were a little brighter.

that’s great, what did you do about the third mount?

was thinking of making a little boomerang bracket between the two unused mounts and drilling a hole in the location of where the OEM mount goes

also, what’s your take after the upgrade with the 10 years aftermarket audio experience?

 

[Idkorcare]

for the 3rd mount I took a 1" x 1/2" piece of metal, drilled a hole in itf for the screw, and bent it to just catch the edge of the speaker frame and hold it down. Then wrapped it in jewelry flock. Its solid. I do wish I had known in advance to get some shorter screws, the factory screws are really to long without the thickness of the OEM frame.

So ive only really worked on my personally cars in the last 10 years and thats mostly just moving the same equipment from car to car, mainly my G35 coupe and Volt. On both of those cars I changed all the speakers and used an AudioControl Three.One EQ/ line driver and was pretty happy with each of those in the end.

Sound is purely subjective, what sounds good to one person isnt always what sounds good to someone else. To me the SR+ sounds fine stock if not just lacking a sub. If I had the premium system I probably would have just been happy adding a sub and being done with it but on the SR+ it kinda annoys me the speaker were there and just not hooked up, along with having most of the other equipment I think I only spent around $300 to change all the 4" speakers, add 2 amps, a sub, and LC7I.

With all that said Im still not sure it was worth all the effort in the end for what I was expecting and the amount of work I did. So let me tackle section by section what I dislike or hated while doing this lol.

Dash: Replaced all 3 4" speakers, dropped wires from the L/R to run directly to the amp left the center and center tweeter running off the stock radio. Getting to the dash speakers is slow and tedious. I used a hex key to get the screws in and out and as mentioned above recommend shorter screws, they dont like being run down as far as I had to but it worked. Not to mention they are just awkward to get to.
Grabbed signal from the original wiring to run to the front channel of the LC7i.

APillar and door tweeter: since I disconnected the L/R dash speakers I ran those channels to 3 way crossovers I bought off Ebay since neither can really handle a full range signal. I wasnt planning on changing these out, just didnt seem worth it and the radio seem to run them just fine using the crossover. Now after disconnecting the L/R dash speakers and hooking these up with the crossovers it honestly sounded exactly the same to me.

Door woofers: I left these alone, sound fine to me and give off decent midbass, just didnt seem like worth it to change them at least right now anyway . I did grab signal off these to use for the Sub channel of the LC7I. I was kind of annoyed that you cant easily take the door panel loose due to how they wired it, seems inconvenient.

Rear door: It wasnt hard to change the rear door speakers since the panel can actually come off without much hassle but its stupid how the speakers are attached to the door in a way that you are never really supposed to change or replace them. They are plastic riveted in place. luckily you can screw new speakers in place but you also need another bracket for the one odd screw mount. Grabbed signal off these for the rear channel of the LC7i

Rear Deck speakers: also a pain to get to, almost all of the backend of the car has to come out to get the deck out, then once the deck is out you need to get the screen off the access the speakers. Well in order to do that you have to get off the glued down foam pad that blocks access to the screen. Once again you cant really do this without possibly messing something up but I will say i think its just hot glued down so a heatgun may make it easy to peel back. At this point Im just wanting to get it done with and just mad all around between doing this at night in the semi dark after work over a week span, needless to say im annoyed lol.

Final stretch, I had been planning to mount the amp where the stock sub would be located but Im just wanting to get done so I decided to mount everything in the lower trunk which was mostly painless. So couple more notes/ rants, the amps Im usings are some cheaper Rockford amps, they worked great in the other cars with the Three.One EQ/line driver adjustments but all the signals in the Tesla seem crossed over and Im just not sure it would work with it so I went the LC7I route. Im not really sure the Tesla needs the LC7i or the one I have is defective, it never maxes out with test tons and personal opinion you dont really get to utilize half the benefits it offers. Dont need the summing or the accubass. An epicenter on the subs and just a line driver on the front and rear would offer more benefit, the LC7i sums channels but doesnt add whats not there line the Epicenter or Three.One can sort of accomplish.

The signal coming out of the Tesla seems extremely weak or something, it seems like almost any change I make induces distortion. I was expecting to get more/clearer volume between the speaker upgrade and amps but just doesnt seem to be there like the last 2 set ups Ive had. Also the sub doesnt sound right like its missing something granted im still tweeking things so im sure its just a setting. doesnt help doing this at night and the wife yelling cause I have the stereo cranked to set everything. I usually just make adjustments by ear but attempted to set everything with a DMM and that seemed like half the problem so Im going back to my ear.

Finally Im not that big on running the amps directly off the penthouse, coming off a battery you have a dampener from the charging source not to mention I had to reset voltage warnings 3 times even tho I pulled power off the penthouse like everyone else with a resistor. Once the voltage on the 12V battery drops below 12V the penthouse stops attempting to charge the battery and doesnt cut on, even if the battery is fine. Im debating pulling power off the 12V battery instead, im not convinced its metered. I think alot of people that had battery issues ran it down not knowing how it works on top of it being a sketchy battery. If you track when the cigarette/power outlet gets power you can get a better idea when and when its not charging and when it is charging.

I think overall im just irritated by it lol. It sounds fine just not what I was expecting. I still have some adjustments to make and working at home for the last 2 months Im not in the car enough right now to mess with it so Ill get it where i want sooner or later. I also think it all would work better if I actually replaced all the speakers and powered them off an amp instead of the stock headunit.

 

[Idkorcare]

Fwiw after finally getting a chance to troubleshoot it more i figured out 2 things.

1. The Three.One was covering exactly how god awful my old Rockford amps really were.

2. Front left channel is getting some distortion that was hard to pin down due to not being able to isolate that one speaker and because it was that one it just made everything sound bad with the volume up lol.

already ordered a couple JL amps to swap out so we will see how that goes and ill report back.

 

[darnelli]

Thanks, thorough review and write up @Idkorcare

I finished my 3 dash speaker setup this weekend, definitely sound is more vibrant, can hear the smaller details (bells ringing, off beats, etc) more substantial (vaguely present with the older 4'' speakers).

Overall, really happy with it, took longer with some lessons learned and pushing through it, but can definitely do the install way faster the second time around.

Biggest hurdles, making the custom wire harness / connector to plug directly into OEM harness, and getting the dash speaker cover back on (popped off clips 2X and had to fish for them).

100% must, low profile torx 20 ratchet, made the job insanely easier.

 

[davitsio]

Just as an FYI for anyone doing this project, we have another thread regarding all the front speakers here: Brackets to install Aftermarket Speakers in Model 3

And there are some fairly drop-in options if you use specific speakers with adapter brackets. I have them posted as STL so you can print them if needed. It's cool to see all the different avenues people are taking to change the sound though!

 

[asian_xl]

I wonder if replacing with the infinity REF-4022CFX speakers going to sound better in Premium Sound system?

 

[Idkorcare]

I ended up changing my amps out and now it is ridiculously loud and clear. I spread the install out over a few days and it did more harm than good and reusing some old wiring that was bad. So now the mids and highs are crystal clear but my subs cant keep up right now so working thru that.

 

[Idkorcare]

I wonder if replacing with the infinity REF-4022CFX speakers going to sound better in Premium Sound system?

More clarity and brighter highs