In your opinion you would rate them in this order (with 1 being best)
- Signature
- BC Forged
- Titan7
-
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Aftermarket Wheels on Model 3
- Thread starter kbecks13
- Start date
OEM brake setups should be fine for clearance, the only reason the 18" aerowheels won't bolt on is because of the lip around the rotor. Not sure I've read about any 18" wheels not clearing the calipers (but there may be some).
There are many 18" wheels that can't fit on a M3P.
Japan Racing's website, using their configurator, accepts only 19"+ wheels for the M3P. If I select the LR variant then it allows me to fit 18"s. But I have to be sure before ordering 18"s.
Maybe you could email them and ask what clearance issues their wheels have with the performance models, they should have every dimension of the wheel and know specifically why they won't work. Most 18" wheels have a large enough barrel diameter to clear the brakes, it's just that dumb lip that telsa put on the rotors that causes issues, if the wheel company doesn't machine that section off.
whatsupsor
Member
Initial impressions of the Potenza Sport tires:
Stiffness and responsiveness: Yes! I can't even tell if I gave up any turn-in response. The stock M3P turn-in delay is still there, but if these taller tires made it worse I can't tell. From a feel/responsiveness perspective no regrets at all going for 18s instead of 19s. (Aesthetically I'm sure 19s would look nicer.) These sidewalls must be on the stiff side even for a performance tire. (Maybe if the M3P had extremely sharp turn-in I could discern any responsiveness difference better.)
Ride: Small improvement, mainly over small stuff and road texture. Not as big a change as I expected with the taller sidewalls. Going from 245/35R21 to 245/45R19 on my Model S was a bigger change (different tires involved). Again this points to the sidewalls being pretty stiff, I think.
Highway road noise: Slightly louder than the OE Tesla-spec Pirellis I think. Not a big difference here either. As performance tires go, these are fine, I've had much noisier ones on other cars.
Grip: I can't evaluate this yet, I've only put a few miles on them. Still in the greasy new tire period. I did get the back sliding on a ramp yesterday after dropping off my stock wheels at home and going for a quick spin. ;-)
Overall they feel great so far, better than the stock setup, with the big disclaimer about not being able to evaluate absolute grip or feedback around the limit yet, because of that new tire greasiness. (Also I'm realizing that some of my minor complaining about the stock Pirellis not being quite as grippy as I wanted was probably from their initial greasiness too, they did start feeling better and grippier after some miles on the car.)
I'm also glad to have sidewalls taller than normal potholes / road imperfections / gravel waves / etc. Those pretty Uberturbines just weren't practical for me.
Here's a slightly better picture. Still captured in a rush, car still dirty, yada yada, but hopefully this gives a better sense of how they look on the car. I like them, especially for the price as forged wheels go.
Indirectly yes. There is a whole story behind it. Guy fromm BC left and started Signature and all their designs are identical to BC and made at the same factory but charge quite a bit more for this supposed "better fitment". I've had BC forged on previous cars their fitment and quality are superb.
KingsT910
Member
Here’s what I heard, the owner of Signature used to be the biggest dealer for BC, measured and test fit all the fitment in house. Unfortunately, BC”NA” did not care all that and flooded with more BC rep, who just steal the spec and undercut their price.
That’s why he started Signature as one man one brand so every application’s fitment will be spot on.
I’m always a big supporter when whichever company put it effort into making a product to be “perfect”. Everyone knows MPP coilover are made by KW… same factory but doesn’t mean they are the same. MPP put in tons of effort on dialing in the valving/spring rate just like Signature put in effort on width/offset. That’s why MPP don’t disclose spring rate and Signature don’t disclose offset.
I found it funny that Signature started the model 3 wheel game in the beginning when there’s NO ONE running BC… and all these BC rep all suddenly came up and telling people Signature is BC cause they see Signature is doing so well… so go figure.
Sounds like fitment and finishing isn’t what you are looking for, but lower price is what you are after. Why not consider the Jova wheel from @Sam1 which would save you the most.
pdx_m3s
Active Member
That silver aluminum looks pretty dang good tbh. As for size, I’m a big fan of 9” wide. Make for a nice clean/square tire sidewall, assuming you go 255 or 265.
y’all do know that “stock” website photos are super misleading and show a concavity that doesn’t exist without either a wide wheel or aggressive fitment / offset spec. Go back and see post #3821 in this thread and read his comments or fitment on #2231. If you want a flat face wheel and weak offsets be my guest. Even some DESPERATE person with BC wheels on this forum lied to me just to get my specs on old setup bc BC couldn’t recommend
I personally wanted a super deep concavity (3 1/4” front and 3 1/2” rear) and Jamie @SignatureSales gave that to me based on my drop / camber / tire size I wanted to run.
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I have spoken to Jamie a few times. I am familiar with him and how good of a product he offers. I don't have the budget to allow for it, which I have stated. I'm not sure why some people feel the need to turn their noses up at others just because it's not in line with what they have. If it was in cards I'd go with a set of full custom Signature wheels. Comments like this, "If you want a flat face wheel and weak offsets be my guest." just show how self-opinionated and arrogant you are. There's no place for that on a public forum. For those of you providing meaningful thoughts, feedback, and opinions, thank you.
ThiccDaddy
Member
Kansei KNP
Front 19x9.5 +22 (tires 235/35)
Rear 19x10.5 +22 (tires 275/35)
on air suspension. no fender rolling needed and a good flush fit.
Front 19x9.5 +22 (tires 235/35)
Rear 19x10.5 +22 (tires 275/35)
on air suspension. no fender rolling needed and a good flush fit.
Ok guys. I’m sure the newb questions have been asked already but I’m in need of some assistance.
I take delivery of my white M3 SR+ today (and yes I’m frantically checking the clock over 5 seconds and waiting on a phone call) and my first 2 mods I want to do are wheels and lowering it a touch. Figured I would start with the wheels to asses just how much I want to lower.
This is my first car I’ve ever bought aftermarket rims for so I’m way lost when it comes to some of the specs. Throw the whole EV range piece on top and I’m a little lost. Hoping I can get a little bit of help on a few topics.
1) 19 v. 20 - I love the look of low profile tires but I’ve never driven on any that low. How big of a ride difference would I be looking at w. 20s? I’m leaning towards 19s at the moment as I’m almost afraid 20s would be too big. Also performance difference? Any major performance differences between the 2 sizes when it comes to range?
2) Staggered v. Square. I’m going to be honest, I still can’t seem to notice the difference between these staggered setups and square. And I’m sure this will be one of those things I notice every single time I see a car after I learn what the difference is but currently my eye isn’t trained to it. What’s the benefit here? Is it worth not being able to rotate tires?
3) Tire sizes. It seems like 9” tires are what most people are recommending to be a good middle ground between performance and comfort. What are the pros and cons of 8.5-10” or however wide people like to go? I also have no idea what the rest of these tire numbers are lol.
4) Wheel/Tire Recommendations in my budget. I’d really like to cap out around $3,000. Maybe a touch higher if I feel like something is that much more worth it for me.
I’m looking for black wheels. Likely matte/satin and I’d like for the design to be on the simpler side. After browsing this page a good bit I really like the aesthetics of the Titan 7 TS-5 that gets recommended a good bit but those are stretching out how much I’d like to pay. I like some of the Forgestar designs as well. I don’t know what to call it other than “thinner” spokes? Is that right? Haha. Any wheels you guys would point me to in this price range?
Any tire recommendations? I’d like a good balance between performance and comfort. I’d like to keep road noise down while still retaining the “fun” aspect of the car and getting good performance out of it. But I won’t be taking it to a track or anything any time soon either.
Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide! I want to do this right the first time and make sure I’m getting good figment with no regrets on the decisions.
I take delivery of my white M3 SR+ today (and yes I’m frantically checking the clock over 5 seconds and waiting on a phone call) and my first 2 mods I want to do are wheels and lowering it a touch. Figured I would start with the wheels to asses just how much I want to lower.
This is my first car I’ve ever bought aftermarket rims for so I’m way lost when it comes to some of the specs. Throw the whole EV range piece on top and I’m a little lost. Hoping I can get a little bit of help on a few topics.
1) 19 v. 20 - I love the look of low profile tires but I’ve never driven on any that low. How big of a ride difference would I be looking at w. 20s? I’m leaning towards 19s at the moment as I’m almost afraid 20s would be too big. Also performance difference? Any major performance differences between the 2 sizes when it comes to range?
2) Staggered v. Square. I’m going to be honest, I still can’t seem to notice the difference between these staggered setups and square. And I’m sure this will be one of those things I notice every single time I see a car after I learn what the difference is but currently my eye isn’t trained to it. What’s the benefit here? Is it worth not being able to rotate tires?
3) Tire sizes. It seems like 9” tires are what most people are recommending to be a good middle ground between performance and comfort. What are the pros and cons of 8.5-10” or however wide people like to go? I also have no idea what the rest of these tire numbers are lol.
4) Wheel/Tire Recommendations in my budget. I’d really like to cap out around $3,000. Maybe a touch higher if I feel like something is that much more worth it for me.
I’m looking for black wheels. Likely matte/satin and I’d like for the design to be on the simpler side. After browsing this page a good bit I really like the aesthetics of the Titan 7 TS-5 that gets recommended a good bit but those are stretching out how much I’d like to pay. I like some of the Forgestar designs as well. I don’t know what to call it other than “thinner” spokes? Is that right? Haha. Any wheels you guys would point me to in this price range?
Any tire recommendations? I’d like a good balance between performance and comfort. I’d like to keep road noise down while still retaining the “fun” aspect of the car and getting good performance out of it. But I won’t be taking it to a track or anything any time soon either.
Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide! I want to do this right the first time and make sure I’m getting good figment with no regrets on the decisions.
This will be tough... Normally, you would sacrifice range if you want a good wheel/tire set up. Most likely, you will end up with a wider wheel/tire combo from aero stock wheels. You can always stick with stock sizing but where's the fun in that?
19 vs 20 will be prefernce but you are correct. Most likely, 19s will ride better and will have a bit more rubber to proctect you wheels. Not saying 20 isnt going to be confortable but 19s is likely to deliver a more comfortable ride.
If you want the titan t5 design, check out SSR GTX01 in black. Very similar and priced around $2K. Plus tires, you will be right around your $3K budget... BUT you gotta think about your lugnuts AND TPMS sensor that will push you out of your budget (TPMS new is about $300 for a set if you do not want to move your existing TPMS sensor from 1 wheel to the other).
Tires, Falken FK510 (Summer tire) or Conti DSW 06 (All Season) for daily driiving.
Hit up @P3D-R He will help you out.
This will be tough... Normally, you would sacrifice range if you want a good wheel/tire set up. Most likely, you will end up with a wider wheel/tire combo from aero stock wheels. You can always stick with stock sizing but where's the fun in that?
19 vs 20 will be prefernce but you are correct. Most likely, 19s will ride better and will have a bit more rubber to proctect you wheels. Not saying 20 isnt going to be confortable but 19s is likely to deliver a more comfortable ride.
If you want the titan t5 design, check out SSR GTX01 in black. Very similar and priced around $2K. Plus tires, you will be right around your $3K budget... BUT you gotta think about your lugnuts AND TPMS sensor that will push you out of your budget (TPMS new is about $300 for a set if you do not want to move your existing TPMS sensor from 1 wheel to the other).
Tires, Falken FK510 (Summer tire) or Conti DSW 06 (All Season) for daily driiving.
Hit up @P3D-R He will help you out.
Thanks man!
On the TPMS if I order wheels online but not a whole “package” can I have discount tire swap the factory sensors in to the new wheels?
Also any advantage/disadvantage to ordering a whole wheel/tire package online vs just ordering wheels and having everything else done at a local spot?
Sure. They'll have to dismount the tires on your current wheels though. And then re-mount them if you want to keep them together. Also if you're going to sell the original wheel+tire combo I imagine the value is less without TPMS inside. Basically I would lean towards buying new sensors, unless the tires on the old wheels are done and ready for disposal anyways. (Not the case for your picking up a new car.)
Advantage: You can swap in the new wheels yourself at home, no need to even visit a shop.
Disadvantage: If the fitment is tight they might not place the weights correctly to avoid rubbing, or might use weights that are too thick, because they're not actually testing it on your car. I actually had that happen at a local shop once (really sloppy work there, won't go back), had to make them redo it, and I recall coming across at least one case on these forums of a premounted wheel+tire combo having weight placement/size issues when they tried to put them on their car.
Maybe you can put a message in your order request to avoid that issue, if the person doing the mounting actually gets your message. Or don't buy small wheels with tight clearance.
I've yet to buy wheels+tires together, but I think it's pretty common and if you're not going for a tight fitment I wouldn't worry.
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