Air Compressor Replacement + Air Line & Air Shocks inspection DIY

Thought I'd post this as it may be helpful for others. Especially if you can DIY and don't want to pay Tesla many £1000's to fix these air compressor/suspension-related issues.

I started to hear my air compressor turning on a lot more than it used to and it was getting a lot noisier than it used to be. At the same time, I started getting 'Air Compressor Disabled, Car Cannot Raise' messages, these increased as the temperature dropped to 0c and below.

The other issue I noticed was that the front left suspension was losing pressure and making the car sag on that front side. Clearly, this air shock or the lines to it were leaking and in turn making the compressor run a huge amount more than it was designed for.

To test the lines and suspension I got some leak detection spray and covered all the lines, connections, pumps and tank with it to see if anything was leaking. It wasn't. On to the shocks and the suspect shock created a nice foam party The other front one is fine as were both the back ones.

Good one:

Bad one:

Next thing to tackle was the Air Compressor itself. I would have loved to rebuild this but I can't find the parts, unfortunately. I found that this pump is used in the Audi Q5, Lamborghini Huracan, Porshe Panamera and probably others. It's made by Wabco with the motor by Lucas. I took it all apart and it was full of rust and most probably the press-fit piston ring shot. I have pics of this dismantled if anyone wants me to post them. I ordered a 3rd party part for £300. It has arrived and I fitted it today. It works well and is super quiet! The replacement air shock won't be with me for another 10 days so it will have to handle being used a little bit more than usual for a few days.

While changing the compressor I found another issue. One of the lines from the pump had been rubbed away by its surroundings. It's probably 0.1mm away from a pinhole! I'll order a new piece of line for this and move it away from the rubbing parts near it.

Compressor location (after I removed it) and 2nd pic circled where the black line had been rubbing against the electrical connector:

You need a few hours to troubleshoot, take things apart, and remove and reinstall the air compressor but it's an easy job. You do have to jack up the car (put it in jack mode) and remove the FR wheel so for anyone attempting this, make sure you use the right safety measures, Jack stands etc.

 

[infinkc]

Curious if anyone knows what the “clear spring leak alert” means?

Replaced my strut and compressor and continue to get leak alerts shown in the service menu. Car has not had signs of the compressor running like it did before.

 

[BigBazza]

@MobileClimate @Zuikkis

Hey guys - you both seem the most knowledgeable guys about the air suspension on here…..please help!!

Back in March we had a really cold snap - got the ‘air suspension unavailable - compressor disabled’ message and fault code - appear that there is probably some moisture in my system somewhere and some had frozen, causing the compressor to jam and blow the 40A Fuse. Thanks to @Zuikkis who provided me with a load of info on it at that point, and also th excuse box diagrams.

Now, here we are 3 months on, and I have got it again. Same error code and same message. Checked fuse this time…it’s fine - no quick and easy fix for me. Now, I’m a retired forensic vehicle examiner so know my way about a spanner or socket set, so set about trying to troubleshoot it.

*Symptoms*:

On each fresh ‘power up’ of the vehicle the compressor runs for about 10 seconds - it does not appear to lift the vehicle which is currently slammed on the deck on all 4 corneed, rendering it virtually undriveable. It then cuts off and will not reactivate at all until you power down and power back up again, but then just repeats the above cycle. Strangely enough, this all started on exactly the same day as the last big software update came through was installed about a week ago. Car is a Feb 2017 Model X P90D with about 54k miles on the clock with what I believe is the older EAS system.

*Attempted Solutions thus far*

1 - Fuse and Relay checked - both OK And relay clicking in and out as epected. Relay also switched with another identical one - no change.

2 - managed to get the car onto the Jack and then up onto axle stands at the front. Removed front right inner wheel arch liner. Reeated the restart process and observed the compressor kicking into life then stopping abruptly after about 8-10 seconds.

3 - one by one, started working around each of the 4 air-spring output feed lines - on releasing the BROWN, GREEN and YELLOW lines - all back air outwards suggesting the air springs are unloading to atmosphere - all only just disconnected and as soon as air heard leaking, nipped back up tight.
on releasing the BLUE feed pipe, absolutely nothing….but, that is the one for the Right Rear if I am correct and as the car is lifted at the front right, the rear right is under no load, so hence no backfeed? Makes sense?

4 - repeated above procedure for the thicker BLACK pipe and the thinner BLACK pipe - again,
both leaking air when slackened.

5 - finally, released the PURPLE hose (what appears to be the feed in pipe from the compressor) - nothing. So, repeated the restart procedure and compressor kicked into life for its 10 seconds - no air coming out of the purple pipe. Suspected potential blockage in pipe, so dropped the compressor from it’s mount (the 3 bolts on the spring suspension points) and removed the PURPLE pipe completely and found it to flowing freely and clear of any debris.…bummer!

6 - with the purple hose disconnected, repeater the restart procedure yet again…..compressor kicks into life as before for it’s 10 seconds or so, but absolutely no air coming out of the compressor at all from the hole where the PURPLE hose feed was attached.

So, am I right in thinking it is looking very much like the compressor may be gubbed? Or am I missing something (either obvious or not) which could cause such symptoms? Really struggling as a family with the Tesla off the road, but the local SC is 30 miles away and car is virtually undriveable….not to mention that we all know they will just start the old ‘throw money at replacement parts’ routine until it eventually works, and I have to wait more than a week for an appointment for that privilege.

I can pick up a compressor easily enough online within 2 days or so, and for about £400 for an OEM branded item from Wabco which will come with no new ‘valve relay’ unit It seems fairly reasonable.

Alternatively, I can pick up one for similar money 2nd hand (complete with everything (including mounting brackets, compressor, all bolts/springs AND the valve unit).

my main issue is that I don’t want to do the same as Tesla and just throw parts at it until it goes!! I’d really like to KNOW that I have the issue diagnosed and that as soon as I get parts through, it’s hopefully just a case of refitting the new part and it’s all good to go.

Finally, being the awkward folk that Tesla are, does anyone know if the compressor needs ‘paired’ or ‘linked’ to the car? (I Wouldn't have suspected so, but you never know….and i see a load of references to refilling the system with NITROGEN - how important is that? And any ideas how to go about that?

Any and all help or advice would be very much appreciated as I really need to get it back on the road asap!

Many thanks in advance!

 

[BigBazza]

Oh, and here are a couple of where I am at up to now< just for reference>

 

[hydro]

Hi, did you spray soapy water on the compressor during those 10 seconds that it runs?? On mine, the exhaust valve(when you lower the car, the air purges from there) had become defective and bubbles where coming out from there when I was poking around to figure out my issue. I do not yet know how to precisely refer to the right place on a thread but look at the pictures on post 35 in this thread :

Tesla model s rear suspension leak

 

[infinkc]

Oh, and here are a couple of where I am at up to now< just for reference>

It does seem your compressor is shot and not filling the tank. Have you tried to fill the tank with air just too see if the car will raise?

Have you went into service mode to see what faults it has?

 

[MobileClimate]

You need to fill the reservoir or tap into the purple line with nitrogen then close all the doors use key fob turn on car and put the suspension in high mode with the nitrogen still attached and then put in jack mode and look for leaks ....you could put a small amount of r22 freon in there and check for leaks with a leak detector also ..find a good hvac guy he can help you find the leak..

 

[geordi]

That's a good idea about using the refrigerant as a leak detector. I've already got one of those, but I also am pretty sure I know which strut is leaking (front passenger) on mine. Just have to chase it to see where the leak actually might be.

 

[BigBazza]

Hi, did you spray soapy water on the compressor during those 10 seconds that it runs?? On mine, the exhaust valve(when you lower the car, the air purges from there) had become defective and bubbles where coming out from there when I was poking around to figure out my issue. I do not yet know how to precisely refer to the right place on a thread but look at the pictures on post 35 in this thread :

Tesla model s rear suspension leak

I did try my best to get as much of it ‘soapy bubble’ leak tested but couldn’t see anything bubbling - but I have now replaced the compressor and air distribution valve block, put new brass fittings and collets on all hoses and re-laced the relay (checked the old one out though and it was fine, but a new one came with the compressor) and so far no joy at all…..no suspension rise - car still slammed - but thanks a lot for you suggestion and I will maybe have another check today, but the reservoir is now empty, so nothing there to leak I suppose.

Still awaiting a response from Tesla and have been for days now. Love the car, absolutely hate the service - quite possibly the worst factory service experience I have ever had in 35 years of driving….and the one MAJOR reason that this will be my first, AND LAST, Tesla….never again.

Elon Musk lives in a utopian world of fairies and pixie dust and unfortunately that won’t fix my car, or anyone else’s’ for that matter. And the 10 year ‘leap ahead’ that Tesla on once had on the competition is now more like a year at best…and performance a[art, they are probably well behind the competition in a lot of ares, especially service quality and build quality. Sad and incredibly frustrating as a Tesla owner.

 

[BigBazza]

It does seem your compressor is shot and not filling the tank. Have you tried to fill the tank with air just too see if the car will raise?

Have you went into service mode to see what faults it has?

Compressor and Air Sus distribution valve now replaced, complete with new brass collets and fittings throughout…..but no joy. Until I disconnected the reservoir feed down to the valve block, he reservoir was holding pressure so the problem is not up there….the car was very slowly ‘sinking’ as it was being driven….each bump causes a little air to be ’lost’ in absorption….but the problem seemed to be that it wouldn’t raise….so the compressor was definitely suspect….but I don;t have Nitrogen to hand to fill the reservoir again for further troubleshooting, hence I bit the bullet and just ordered in a compressor and valve block, expecting to fix the issue….but no-e, still knackered.

I can pressurise it from a standard air compressor, but have no idea what pressure should be at the reservoir…..I imagine much higher than a standard workshop compressor will manage?

 

[BigBazza]

You need to fill the reservoir or tap into the purple line with nitrogen then close all the doors use key fob turn on car and put the suspension in high mode with the nitrogen still attached and then put in jack mode and look for leaks ....you could put a small amount of r22 freon in there and check for leaks with a leak detector also ..find a good hvac guy he can help you find the leak..

I will try to fill the reservoir with air for now purely for trouble shooting purposes…..I just don’t have access to Nitrogen here. Will look into finding an HVAC guy though!

i am going to try to de exactly what you said otherwise - follow the steps to the letter - and see if I can figure out what is wrong.

given the warning of ‘Air Suspension Compressor Disabled - Cannot Raise Suspension’ and the fact that the whole car is pretty evenly lowering, it’s unlikely to be a leak at an air strut?

all help, advice and suggestions most gratefully received!! Thanks again.

 

[MobileClimate]

You need about 290 psi in the reservoir and all the doors closed you will need to fill it with nitrogen then go to service mode inflate springs then report what happens..you might have the wrong compressor because it won't work if you have tesla compressor on conti system

On both Conti Air Suspension (EAS) and Tesla Air Suspension (TAS), the valve block holds electronic solenoid valves that are closed by default. When energized, they open and allow air to flow into the air circuit. The valve block also holds the pressure sensor for both systems.
For TAS, the valve block holds the air spring valves and the reservoir valve. The exhaust and boost valves are within the compressor assembly.
For EAS, the valve block holds the air spring valves and the exhaust valve. Reversing valves within the compressor act as the reservoir valve.

 

[BigBazza]

@MobileClimate - The compressor I have fitted is definitely the right one - brand new swap out and identical in every way….and same for the air distribution valve - absolutely identical to the original and cross checked with supplier for part numbers, etc.

The bigger issue I see coming is getting the reservoir charged to 290psi - that’s a hell of a lot of pressure And not going to get anywhere near that from a standard workshop air compressor. is that going to need an HVAC guy too?

Thanks for all your help!

 

[BigBazza]

OK, having managed to get into the service menu afete finding instructions online, I can show you what I am seeing on screen and you will see what I mean. no matter what, compressor does. It run for more than 10 seconds top before shutting off.

i’ll post again directly with photos of the old and new compressor / valve block and you’ll see what I mean that they are identical….still not sure what suspension I actually have - according to the car’s own age/ VIN and serial numbers, I have the old EAS system (I.e. Fully 4-height adjustable system, with geo locating, but not fully adaptive (EAS as I understood it from Tesla’s own manual) not the newer ‘fully adaptive’ TAS system with the added features…but according to the system error messages, they are all ‘TAS’ codes….so who knows?

driving me nuts for sure….nd I live 35 miles from my nearest service centre (all motorway/freeway thankfully) but still not convinced it should be driven there. May need transported?

also, still not entirely sure how to fill the reservoir manually….I assume when I take out the frunk plastics, I will be able to access the reservoir and there will hopefully be a pressure valve to connect to to fill the reservoir?

thnks again!

 

[BigBazza]

You need about 290 psi in the reservoir and all the doors closed you will need to fill it with nitrogen then go to service mode inflate springs then report what happens..you might have the wrong compressor because it won't work if you have tesla compressor on conti system

On both Conti Air Suspension (EAS) and Tesla Air Suspension (TAS), the valve block holds electronic solenoid valves that are closed by default. When energized, they open and allow air to flow into the air circuit. The valve block also holds the pressure sensor for both systems.
For TAS, the valve block holds the air spring valves and the reservoir valve. The exhaust and boost valves are within the compressor assembly.
For EAS, the valve block holds the air spring valves and the exhaust valve. Reversing valves within the compressor act as the reservoir valve.

Photo of brand new compressor and valve block as fitted, complete with all now brass fittings:

Photos of visually identical units as removed:

 

[BigBazza]

Spent ages looking for a schrader valve filler point for the air suspension on my Model X, only to finally discover that it was one of those that were manufactured without it and it needs to be retrofitted as an ‘inline addition’ as per the ‘retrofit’ instructions on the Tesla service site. Pain int he backside! Now to find one and get it fitted….nuisance.

Tesla themselves, as usual, are as much use as a third armpit in getting things sorted….apparently they can now magically diagnose the problem remotely (utter bullshit) and are waiting for parts to arrive BEFORE they are booking it in for a diagnosis inspection…so much for your ‘right to repair’ under UK and EU laws…..tesla won‘t even provide a phone number or contact point for after sales…they are a disgrace and as much as I love the car when it is going, it is truly awful when things go wrong because of the non-existent after sales service from Tesla for anyone with a car which is out of warrange. They have no interest in you at all……other than to try to sell you another car….so once I get this sorted, the car is going.….time for a change.

 

[MobileClimate]

I wouldn’t just automatically blame Tesla I put them at the top compared too others in my opinion Other industries having the same issues with part’s availability

 

[geordi]

What I find particularly irritating about the company is that they CAN remotely diagnose things - but will do so, and STILL automagically add on a "diagnostics" charge to the invoice, AND also automatically add pretty much every part associated with a given system error. This is so they can charge you for the complete list of parts they will replace, and then not tell you which of those parts may not have been needed (more profits for them) while never obeying the directive to give back the old parts.

Don't get me started on the lack of communication though, that is a particular sticking point.

Looking at this thread though... Where do people get the idea that the system is completely sealed and must be filled only with nitrogen? That Wabco compressor is a smaller version of what I've seen on other vehicles, and I have heard it (on my X) pump up and purge the air dryer - so clearly it is drawing in air from the outside, just as any other air suspension system does. Any air shock will leak down during travel, where does everyone think that air is going? It has to be replaced from somewhere, and that somewhere is... Everywhere around the car.

 

[MobileClimate]

The air spring is for ride height only and should not leak..the nitrogen keeps moisture out of the system and when you lower it the nitrogen dries the drier on its way out and when you go up it uses the nitro from the reservoir and uses very little air from outside to boost the pressure up again.. you wanna keep moisture out of the system just like Air conditioning so you dont get restrictions/damage to the inside of the air spring or damage to the compressor ..you shouldn't ever hear the compressor running

Air suspension questions - Nitrogen Fill - 6SpeedOnline - Porsche Forum and Luxury Car Resource

Panamera - Air suspension questions - Nitrogen Fill - Through some searching I came across threads (in multiple forums) about Panamera air suspension being filled with Nitrogen 5. I am not exhibiting issues yet, but have been reading many many posters talk about their issues with shocks, so I...

www.6speedonline.com

as one guy said it measured that the nitrogen stayed in the system 3 -4 months before being let all the way out ..very important to fill initial system with nitro ..thats why its on the service mode menu to drop air on system and fill with nitro

 

[hydro]

Is that valid for both EAS and TAS?

 

[MobileClimate]

Nitrogen is used for filling and testing of pressure vessels because it is an inert gas that does not react with other materials. The advantages of nitrogen over compressed air or dry air include:

1. Non-reactivity with other materials
2. Lack of moisture and oil, reducing corrosion
3. Consistent density, enabling accurate pressure readings
4. No risk of fire or explosion in oxygen-enriched environments.

When filled with nitrogen I noticed on a mx2020 with the tas system and no air leaks I don’t ever hear the compressor come on and acording to tesla service manual you should not even hear it because it’s turned on based upon mph and pressure reading. And that’s after serveral low to reg height adjustments from highway to city streets