Air Suspension error - EAS_w007

[Doanster1]

Dreaded red suspension icon along with the error code came on a few days ago. I’ve gotten this once or twice in all the years of ownership of my P85D, but it always cleared itself after an hour or two. On permanently now. Tried reboots, power down, disconnected the 12V… all to no avail.
Took the frunk tub out just now and checked the fuse (F36) with a meter and it was good. Disconnected and reseated the two connectors to the compressor as well, but again, to no avail.
Car is sitting a tad bit lower in the front, but overall no catastrophic issues. The reserve air tank still has plenty of air as well (tested the fill/purge valve).
Suppose in need to check each height sensor now, but without the ability to raise the car to high, I can’t get my jack underneath. Gotta order a cheap low profile trolley Jack I suppose.
Any other ideas? Thanks in advance.

 

[Doanster1]

Does anyone know which relay is for the compressor? Replacement compressors come with a new relay and diagnostic instructions all state to not only check the fuse, but the relay as well. All the fuse diagrams I could find don’t reference the relays…

 

[Gtech]

Does anyone know which relay is for the compressor? Replacement compressors come with a new relay and diagnostic instructions all state to not only check the fuse, but the relay as well. All the fuse diagrams I could find don’t reference the relays…

You could manually power the solenoid valve block to raise each corner. (try at your own risk)

I believe you have this fuse box:

F36 is only for the air suspension ECU, there is also a big 40A fuse for the compressor (fuse box on battery) but you can also try to measure 12V on pin 30 of the relay if this fuse is ok.

Did you tried Tesla road service to tell you what the fault code means?

 

[Doanster1]

Thanks! For some reason all the fuse diagrams I could find omit the relays. Looks like I need to test K11 or buy a DG85D relay for $10.
Haven’t submitted a service request yet. Wanted to diagnose a bit first.

Edit: just swapped K11 with K15 to no avail so it’s not the relay.

 

[Doanster1]

Pulled K11 and measured voltage across pin 87 and pin 30. This is with the car “on”, ie pressed the brake. Got zero volts. Where is the 40A fuse for the compressor? You mention “battery box”, but you don’t mean the fuse attached directly to the positive terminal do you? Because I figure if that blew that none of the other 12V systems would be on like the MCU etc.
Thanks for all the help so far. Low pro jack on the way and service appt booked. It’s way out in early December so have asked for remote diag and possible emergency appt if the front end continues to drop a few millimeters a day.

 

[Gtech]

Pulled K11 and measured voltage across pin 87 and pin 30. This is with the car “on”, ie pressed the brake. Got zero volts. Where is the 40A fuse for the compressor? You mention “battery box”, but you don’t mean the fuse attached directly to the positive terminal do you? Because I figure if that blew that none of the other 12V systems would be on like the MCU etc.
Thanks for all the help so far. Low pro jack on the way and service appt booked. It’s way out in early December so have asked for remote diag and possible emergency appt if the front end continues to drop a few millimeters a day.

Pin 30 for the K11 relay is always hot so no need to wake the car.

If the 40A fuse is blown there is a good change the compressor is fried.

The battery fuse box is located...onto the 12V battery

Be aware that there are 2 rows of fuses and the rear one is well hidden.

 

[Doanster1]

Pin 30 for the K11 relay is always hot so no need to wake the car.

If the 40A fuse is blown there is a good change the compressor is fried.

The battery fuse box is located...onto the 12V battery

Be aware that there are 2 rows of fuses and the rear one is well hidden.

View attachment 733525

Even though my P85D is a Dec’14 build, it falls into the ‘15 layout, ie I have three fuse boxes under the cowl. Will take the frunk tub out again today and try to find the battery mounted fuse box.

 

[Gtech]

Even though my P85D is a Dec’14 build, it falls into the ‘15 layout, ie I have three fuse boxes under the cowl. Will take the frunk tub out again today and try to find the battery mounted fuse box.

Hm, it could be that the fuse box is still in the old place where the battery used to be but i'm not sure. If you have only a big cable on your battery positive please follow this one to where it goes.

 

[Doanster1]

Hm, it could be that the fuse box is still in the old place where the battery used to be but i'm not sure. If you have only a big cable on your battery positive please follow this one to where it goes.

You are correct. It’s underneath the cabin filter, where the battery used to reside/where the fireman’s loop is. Question now is… where is the second row of fuses? You said it’s hidden. Are they underneath the six neatly routed power lines?? There is little space to do anything in there.
BTW, I checked K11 again and still getting zero. Checked K15 and do see +14V so looks like no power to the compressor indeed.

 

[Gtech]

Question now is… where is the second row of fuses? You said it’s hidden. Are they underneath the six neatly routed power lines??

Yes, to expose this 40A fuse you have to remove the top power lines to remove the little plastic cover underneath.

Good luck

 

[Doanster1]

Yes, to expose this 40A fuse you have to remove the top power lines to remove the little plastic cover underneath.

Good luck

Oh man, what a PITA that’s going to be. I guess I’ve gone this far might as well finish it. What a strange decision to bury the fuses under a row of wires?!? Good thing each wire is labeled “H”, “I”, “J”, etc. Suppose I should disconnect the 12V battery now.
Def learning a lot, so continued thanks for your help.
Discovered fuse box number two was flopping around - someone at some point yanked a little too hard on the cover and broke the box off from the two side mounting tabs.

 

[Doanster1]

All is FINALLY well!!!
Getting to that secondary bank of hidden fuses was such a huge pain. Whomever designed that needs to be fired. I started loosening one of the top power wire nuts to give me room to remove the secondary cover when I heard a “plop”. The damn screw posts are not held in place so it dropped to the tray below. Thank goodness I had a magnetic nut/bolt tool. Once I retrieved it and put the nut back on, I proceeded to just loosen the rest to give me enough room to bend the wires up. That gave me enough room finally to release the sliding trap door protecting the secondary row. Continuity test confirmed F82 was blown/shorted.
Now where to find a 40A MIDI fuse. Called a couple electric supply places to no avail. Autozone clerk didn’t even know where to begin when I said “MIDI fuse”. Finally got lucky and a local auto parts store knew what I needed and had exactly one in stock.
Got it installed and reconnected the 12V battery. Checked for power on pin30 of K11. Still zero. Expletive laden few mins followed.
I decided to check the new fuse again, assuming it had instantly blown, but to my surprise, it was still good. At this point I threw in the towel and decided I had done as much as I could. As I was putting all the covers, air box, etc. back on, the compressor comes to life and my stanced-out lowrider lifts itself up!! The SAS computer must’ve needed to go through its boot sequence and clear previous faults.
Talk about relief! I climbed in the car and cycled through all the height settings and the car responded with no issues.
Can’t thank you enough @Gtech ! Not only did you save me $$ (I spent prob 6hrs total diagnosing, etc.), but I had a small road trip planned this weekend that can now take place.

 

[Gtech]

All is FINALLY well!!!
Getting to that secondary bank of hidden fuses was such a huge pain. Whomever designed that needs to be fired. I started loosening one of the top power wire nuts to give me room to remove the secondary cover when I heard a “plop”. The damn screw posts are not held in place so it dropped to the tray below. Thank goodness I had a magnetic nut/bolt tool. Once I retrieved it and put the nut back on, I proceeded to just loosen the rest to give me enough room to bend the wires up. That gave me enough room finally to release the sliding trap door protecting the secondary row. Continuity test confirmed F82 was blown/shorted.
Now where to find a 40A MIDI fuse. Called a couple electric supply places to no avail. Autozone clerk didn’t even know where to begin when I said “MIDI fuse”. Finally got lucky and a local auto parts store knew what I needed and had exactly one in stock.
Got it installed and reconnected the 12V battery. Checked for power on pin30 of K11. Still zero. Expletive laden few mins followed.
I decided to check the new fuse again, assuming it had instantly blown, but to my surprise, it was still good. At this point I threw in the towel and decided I had done as much as I could. As I was putting all the covers, air box, etc. back on, the compressor comes to life and my stanced-out lowrider lifts itself up!! The SAS computer must’ve needed to go through its boot sequence and clear previous faults.
Talk about relief! I climbed in the car and cycled through all the height settings and the car responded with no issues.
Can’t thank you enough @Gtech ! Not only did you save me $$ (I spent prob 6hrs total diagnosing, etc.), but I had a small road trip planned this weekend that can now take place.

Great to hear you got it running after all, that's where this community is for.

The 40A fuses don't pop very often so keep in mind it could happen again and then your compressor needs replacement.

About pin30 of K11 I'm pretty sure this wire comes directly from the 40A fuse you replaced so you must have 12V all times going to the relay. Try measuring with another ground point.

 

[Synergy]

All is FINALLY well!!!
Getting to that secondary bank of hidden fuses was such a huge pain. Whomever designed that needs to be fired. I started loosening one of the top power wire nuts to give me room to remove the secondary cover when I heard a “plop”. The damn screw posts are not held in place so it dropped to the tray below. Thank goodness I had a magnetic nut/bolt tool. Once I retrieved it and put the nut back on, I proceeded to just loosen the rest to give me enough room to bend the wires up. That gave me enough room finally to release the sliding trap door protecting the secondary row. Continuity test confirmed F82 was blown/shorted.
Now where to find a 40A MIDI fuse. Called a couple electric supply places to no avail. Autozone clerk didn’t even know where to begin when I said “MIDI fuse”. Finally got lucky and a local auto parts store knew what I needed and had exactly one in stock.
Got it installed and reconnected the 12V battery. Checked for power on pin30 of K11. Still zero. Expletive laden few mins followed.
I decided to check the new fuse again, assuming it had instantly blown, but to my surprise, it was still good. At this point I threw in the towel and decided I had done as much as I could. As I was putting all the covers, air box, etc. back on, the compressor comes to life and my stanced-out lowrider lifts itself up!! The SAS computer must’ve needed to go through its boot sequence and clear previous faults.
Talk about relief! I climbed in the car and cycled through all the height settings and the car responded with no issues.
Can’t thank you enough @Gtech ! Not only did you save me $$ (I spent prob 6hrs total diagnosing, etc.), but I had a small road trip planned this weekend that can now take place.

I’m trying to fix the same problem, f82 fuse was blown. Power going to the relay now, but still have the amber suspension warning and “”air suspension unavailable”.

Any ideas of what to try next? I’ve replaced the compressor too.

 

[Doanster1]

I’m trying to fix the same problem, f82 fuse was blown. Power going to the relay now, but still have the amber suspension warning and “”air suspension unavailable”.

Any ideas of what to try next? I’ve replaced the compressor too.

You replaced the compressor and the fuse is still blowing??? Did you replace the K11 relay?
Is the car still level, ie no one corner is higher or lower? Did the new compressor work for a time after replacement and it was able to fill the reserve tank? Checked the F36/SAS ECU fuse as well?
Last guess would be the solenoid/distribution block. Unplug the connector to it as well as the compressor, re-seat, then connect the HV loop and 12V battery. Forces true system reset IMO.
Amber warning vs red points to a non-catastrophic issue so hopefully reset works.

 

[Synergy]

Replacement compressor hasn't come to life at all, not blowing the fuse and the k11 has power to it now. I've tried another relay, still the same.
The car is an early P85+, according to tesla the system has locked out the compressor and it will need to go onto toolbox the be cleared down. Later cars are easier to get running again, I'm assuming yours is a later car?

 

[Doanster1]

Replacement compressor hasn't come to life at all, not blowing the fuse and the k11 has power to it now. I've tried another relay, still the same.
The car is an early P85+, according to tesla the system has locked out the compressor and it will need to go onto toolbox the be cleared down. Later cars are easier to get running again, I'm assuming yours is a later car?

Mine is a ‘14 P85D. I’d disconnect the HV loop, the 12V, compressor and solenoid connectors and let sit for a bit then try again. Would be strange if they hard coded a lockout into the SAS ECU.

 

[Synergy]

Mine is a ‘14 P85D. I’d disconnect the HV loop, the 12V, compressor and solenoid connectors and let sit for a bit then try again. Would be strange if they hard coded a lockout into the SAS ECU.

It’s running again. Diagnostics showed air compressor to be locked out, erased and it’s working again.

 

[Doanster1]

It’s running again. Diagnostics showed air compressor to be locked out, erased and it’s working again.

Great to hear!

 

[ewelordik]

Hi, I have a Tesla model with 85 2013, I have a similar problem, the air supply unit is not stopping and still trying to pressurize the air. if I understand correctly, there is a mistake. It doesn't let the air through anywhere, it pressures most people and then it stops after a while and makes a woosh. It keeps pushing and trying to get air. after a few hours, the air supply unit is really hot. I came thanks to this forum that I can disconnect the fuse K11, I tried to replace it with k15 but the problem was still the same, he can't lift my chassis. the front of the car is lowered like a ferrari and the rear of the car is at normal height. I'm trying to find where the error might be, yesterday morning I received an update to the software with the fact that it is necessary to replace the 12V battery, otherwise the update will not be completed. can the battery with this error also affect the air supply unit or is the error somewhere else such as air suspension? For example, how can this error be reset via diagnostics? eas_w007 writes me an error. would you know how to help me? the car is more or less immobile and the service is quite far.