Alternative, DIY refresh Model X rear camber correction

I was thinking about this over coffee. Anybody who is considering spending $400 for the Macsboost kit could DIY this for next to nothing. I need somebody to confirm the relationship between the spacer thickness and the camber, but I don't have a refresh X. If anybody is in the Bay area I'd be down to shim and measure the camber and toe values so we can share the data freely.

Some notes:
- Another member has already confirmed the $400 shims are off the shelf 2.9mm (approx 1/8").
- Factory hardware appears to be M12

To do this at home you will need four M12 (metric, so the nominal diameter is 12mm) washers, approx thickness of 3mm; 1/8" is a close standard equivalent. A correctly sized washer will work in pinch.

If we can measure the factory arm's flange, I can draw a simple square part that others can customize for their desired thickness, if they want to hit a target alignment. There are plenty of shops that will mill these for you

Quick mock up with a non-standard thickness that I priced through Xometry. I quoted laser cut 6061 below but other materials are available for an additional cost. Grade 5 Titanium will double the price...to a whopping $11.

If you are happy with the alignment from the 1/8" thickness there is no reason to have a spacer machined.

Of course, the cost goes way down with volume and we can do cool things like anodize or powdercoat. There are also other manufacturing options available with volume.

If none of these options speak to you grab some 1/8" stock, a hacksaw, and a drill!

 

[ngng]

The thickness of the red shim about 6 mm. I say "about", since I just noticed the battery is dead in my micrometer.

Perfect timing what length hardware was included?

 

[towndrunk]

Perfect timing what length hardware was included?

50 mm. Cap says, JH 10.9.

 

[towndrunk]

Oh, that's thik (2/8"). And how is the camber angle in different ride heights, mainly one higher and second the lower which the car prefers to default to?

If I remember correctly, camber increases .6° as you lower your vehicle.

Now is that from medium to low or per inch. Probably the former. .6° per inch would be a lot.

 

[N2B8]

I'm curious if anyone has installed these Red or Silver shims and what is their thickness (for context) and what camber angle results from using them in a) lower setting or b) high setting?

This is my MX LR on LOW height before (w/ silver shims installed) and after alignment.

From factory, front Camber was not even, -.5 left and -1.2 right so might pull car to one side. Toe rear .38 and .43 which is too much after the silver camber shim installed. Now .23/.22. Camber rear better at -1.5/1.6. If you had camber arm and toe arms those can be adjusted down to -.8 but this is close enough for $60. I’m going to do it to my S Plaid now and see how that changes.

 

[ngng]

This is my MX LR on LOW height before (w/ silver shims installed) and after alignment.

From factory, front Camber was not even, -.5 left and -1.2 right so might pull car to one side. Toe rear .38 and .43 which is too much after the silver camber shim installed. Now .23/.22. Camber rear better at -1.5/1.6. If you had camber arm and toe arms those can be adjusted down to -.8 but this is close enough for $60. I’m going to do it to my S Plaid now and see how that changes.

Your alignment sheet is confusing. Your rear camber didn't change before/after?

 

[towndrunk]

Your alignment sheet is confusing. Your rear camber didn't change before/after?

The rear camber was reduced by addition of the shims.

 

[ngng]

The rear camber was reduced by addition of the shims.

That's not what his sheet is showing?

 

[towndrunk]

That's not what his sheet is showing?
View attachment 1006633

N2 said silver shims were installed before the alignment, so that would reduce the rear camber. Silver shims reduces camber about .7°. The red shims (which I bought) reduce it about 1.5°, and is recommended for vehicles always driven at the low setting OR for vehicles lowered below stock height (which is what I'm going to do).

Changing camber affects rear toe so it's likely that adjusting rear toe is why the left camber changed by .1°. Is that what you're questioning?

TBH, from what I've read, the rear toe could have been reduced by another 50%. Adjusting it to zero does make the vehicle follow road ruts more so you do what a little toe.

 

[ngng]

N2 said silver shims were installed before the alignment, so that would reduce the rear camber. Silver shims reduces camber about .7°. The red shims (which I bought) reduce it about 1.5°, and is recommended for vehicles always driven at the low setting OR for vehicles lowered below stock height (which is what I'm going to do).

Changing camber affects rear toe so it's likely that adjusting rear toe is why the left camber changed by .1°. Is that what you're questioning?

TBH, from what I've read, the rear toe could have been reduced by another 50%. Adjusting it to zero does make the vehicle follow road ruts more so you do what a little toe.

Ah makes more sense. I read his original post as an actual before and after.

 

[N2B8]

Correct. The “before” is after I added the rear camber silver shims. That part is not adjustable so prob reduced the camber from -2.3 to -1.5.

Of note is the front camber from the factory is off significantly. I read about Tesla alignment being off from the factory and didn’t believe it until now.

 

[ngng]

Correct. The “before” is after I added the rear camber silver shims. That part is not adjustable so prob reduced the camber from -2.3 to -1.5.

Of note is the front camber from the factory is off significantly. I read about Tesla alignment being off from the factory and didn’t believe it until now.

Here's my alignment from my previous 16 X, check out the before lol. I know the suspension is different between the refreshed cars, but I'd expect an even smaller toe value, especially with the reduced camber.

 

[towndrunk]

Here's my alignment from my previous 16 X, check out the before lol. I know the suspension is different between the refreshed cars, but I'd expect an even smaller toe value, especially with the reduced camber.

View attachment 1006699

I can see why you wanted it aligned.

 

[ngng]

I can see why you wanted it aligned.

Still better alignment than some body panels

 

[N2B8]

Here’s a 2023 S Plaid w/ the silver shims. “Before” is with the rear shims installed, front is stock and unadjusted.

 

[towndrunk]

Here’s a 2023 S Plaid w/ the silver shims. “Before” is with the rear shims installed, front is stock and unadjusted.

What height is this at? Rear camber increases as you lower the car.

 

[N2B8]

What height is this at? Rear camber increases as you lower the car.

Both cars were done at Low as I noticed the cars ride at that height more than 90% of the time. On the S, I don’t set it to default to low so in rough surface streets the car rides in Medium height.

Looks like the S comes from the factory w slightly less negative camber than the X. I’ve had 15k mi on the S and the rear tires are about 7/32”. One of the rear inner thread is 6/32”, the other is actually pretty even prior to adding shims. The X is brand new.

 

[ngng]

Both cars were done at Low as I noticed the cars ride at that height more than 90% of the time. On the S, I don’t set it to default to low so in rough surface streets the car rides in Medium height.

Looks like the S comes from the factory w slightly less negative camber than the X. I’ve had 15k mi on the S and the rear tires are about 7/32”. One of the rear inner thread is 6/32”, the other is actually pretty even prior to adding shims. The X is brand new.

I kept a log of tire wear after every rotation and at is pretty tricky to catch the initial wear unless the wheels are off the car. Here’s 16k, you can barely see the inner toe wear starting to appear. If I were to take a typical inside, middle, outside measurement the overall wear would look pretty even across the tire even though that’s not the case

Rotated my wheels and took rear tire wear measurements after 4500 miles

Here is some data on the combined wear of about 4500 miles on sticker Toyo tires with a factory alignment. Not seeing anything too crazy, but wanted to rotate my tires and collect some datapoints. There is going to be some wiggle room on the measurements, but I tried to measure in similar locations.

teslamotorsclub.com

 

[N2B8]

I kept a log of tire wear after every rotation and at is pretty tricky to catch the initial wear unless the wheels are off the car. Here’s 16k, you can barely see the inner toe wear starting to appear. If I were to take a typical inside, middle, outside measurement the overall wear would look pretty even across the tire even though that’s not the case

Rotated my wheels and took rear tire wear measurements after 4500 miles

Here is some data on the combined wear of about 4500 miles on sticker Toyo tires with a factory alignment. Not seeing anything too crazy, but wanted to rotate my tires and collect some datapoints. There is going to be some wiggle room on the measurements, but I tried to measure in similar locations.

teslamotorsclub.com

Thanks I never thought of using my calipers for more accurate tire depth measurements.

 

[ngng]

Thanks I never thought of using my calipers for more accurate tire depth measurements.

Even calipers are kinda touch and go. If you compress the rubber or measure at an angle it’ll give you different readings. But, that’s true of calipers and mics

 

[calleserra]

This is a very useful thread! I am looking to get my first Tesla, the X, and wasn't looking forward to an additional $500 with the purchase. This is a stupidly simple idea. I love it.

This works on Model S, too?