Alternative, DIY refresh Model X rear camber correction

I was thinking about this over coffee. Anybody who is considering spending $400 for the Macsboost kit could DIY this for next to nothing. I need somebody to confirm the relationship between the spacer thickness and the camber, but I don't have a refresh X. If anybody is in the Bay area I'd be down to shim and measure the camber and toe values so we can share the data freely.

Some notes:
- Another member has already confirmed the $400 shims are off the shelf 2.9mm (approx 1/8").
- Factory hardware appears to be M12

To do this at home you will need four M12 (metric, so the nominal diameter is 12mm) washers, approx thickness of 3mm; 1/8" is a close standard equivalent. A correctly sized washer will work in pinch.

If we can measure the factory arm's flange, I can draw a simple square part that others can customize for their desired thickness, if they want to hit a target alignment. There are plenty of shops that will mill these for you

Quick mock up with a non-standard thickness that I priced through Xometry. I quoted laser cut 6061 below but other materials are available for an additional cost. Grade 5 Titanium will double the price...to a whopping $11.

If you are happy with the alignment from the 1/8" thickness there is no reason to have a spacer machined.

Of course, the cost goes way down with volume and we can do cool things like anodize or powdercoat. There are also other manufacturing options available with volume.

If none of these options speak to you grab some 1/8" stock, a hacksaw, and a drill!

 

[towndrunk]

Yes. Model X suspension is based on Model S, but I think maybe the problem isn't as bad on the S? I may be wrong.

 

[NJturtlePower]

Soooo finally got around to having my N2ITIVE lowering links and @ngng shims installed on my 2023 LR Refresh. The links I have set at -4 (front) -6 (rear) currently to balance out the ride height… it’s still a little higher in the rear unloaded.

Initially found the standard -5 front a little too low and added a noticeable ride hop and extra firmness so dialed it down a notch. Had my buddy check the alignment but he didn’t have the file for the refresh generation. Rear camber was reading between -1.4 to -1.5 on both sides so the 1/8” shims took some OEM extra camber some out for sure, while the lowering links offset the reduction.

Anyways I’ll be taking it to Performance shop soon for an alignment, but thinking at -1.5 degrees max (at typical Low setting) if that’s true isn’t all that bad compared to readings I’ve seen posted.

Pretty tucked in the front especially at Very Low with the weak factory wheel offsets. Looking to go aftermarket 20”s in the spring.

*Before (OEM Low) and After (Links Installed)

 

[ngng]

Soooo finally got around to having my N2ITIVE lowering links and @ngng shims installed on my 2023 LR Refresh. The links I have set at -4 (front) -6 (rear) currently to balance out the ride height… it’s still a little higher in the rear unloaded.

Initially found the standard -5 front a little too low and added a noticeable ride hop and extra firmness so dialed it down a notch. Had my buddy check the alignment but he didn’t have the file for the refresh generation. Rear camber was reading between -1.4 to -1.5 on both sides so the 1/8” shims took some OEM extra camber some out for sure, while the lowering links offset the reduction.

Anyways I’ll be taking it to Performance shop soon for an alignment, but thinking at -1.5 degrees max (at typical Low setting) if that’s true isn’t all that bad compared to readings I’ve seen posted.

Pretty tucked in the front especially at Very Low with the weak factory wheel offsets. Looking to go aftermarket 20”s in the spring.

*Before (OEM Low) and After (Links Installed)

View attachment 1010082

I didn't know you were planning on adding the lowering links. The shims are going to reduce your camber, which in theory you could achieve with your lower links? Or do they not provide enough positive camber?

 

[NJturtlePower]

I didn't know you were planning on adding the lowering links. The shims are going to reduce your camber, which in theory you could achieve with your lower links? Or do they not provide enough positive camber?

I wanted the lowering links for the half-shaft and cosmetic reasons.... figured shims couldn't hurt, taking out a 1/2 degree or more of camber either way.

I see there are the thicker shims with extended bolts if needed down the road.

Would like to get is aligned first and truly see where we're at first.... like I said can't be any worse off than OEM.

 

[ngng]

I wanted the lowering links for the half-shaft and cosmetic reasons.... figured shims couldn't hurt, taking out a 1/2 degree or more of camber either way.

I see there are the thicker shims with extended bolts if needed down the road.

Would like to get is aligned first and truly see where we're at first.... like I said can't be any worse off than OEM.

Makes sense! I think somebody posted the thicker shim specs, should be easy to spec the correct hardware. You could stack the shim if you wanted as well if you don't wanna machine something.

 

[CuriousM3]

Got my alignment today done after adding the RED Shims, so 6mm thick, and camber in the front in low is -1.06 and rear is -1.25. Was expecting to be under -1 degree with the red 6mm shims. Prior to the Toe adjustment it was -1 degree in the rear. Since I didnt do a pre install shim alignment measurement , i am assuming it might have taken out 1 degree of camber?

Alignment was done in LOW suspension height setting

 

[ngng]

Got my alignment today done after adding the RED Shims, so 6mm thick, and camber in the front in low is -1.06 and rear is -1.25. Was expecting to be under -1 degree with the red 6mm shims. Prior to the Toe adjustment it was -1 degree in the rear. Since I didnt do a pre install shim alignment measurement , i am assuming it might have taken out 1 degree of camber?

Alignment was done in LOW suspension height setting

Those don't seem bad. You do want some camber in the car. What does your toe look like? That's the real killer.

 

[CuriousM3]

Agreed with TOE being the really culprit. After the shim install but before alignment

Pre alignment TOE FRONT -0.22 and +0.33. TOE REAR was 0.72 and 0.59

Post alignment TOE FRONT 0 and 0 , TOE REAR 0.11 and 0.11

Adding shims should add more TOE right? Or am I thinking of it in the opposite direction in adding shims it take out TOE? Either way my tires were toast after 12K miles in the rear with inner tire wear And the front seems relatively even.

 

[CuriousM3]

This might be easier than typing it out

 

[ngng]

This might be easier than typing it out

That's not actually terrible, but more toe than I would want.

 

[CuriousM3]

One thing i do notice is the suspension seem like it has raise the rear since the shims push the camber arms out and this also pushing the level sensor

 

[CuriousM3]

That's not actually terrible, but more toe than I would want.

Yeah i think the shims helped the TOE, prior to the shims it was probably worse based on the tire wear i see

 

[Tiger]

One thing i do notice is the suspension seem like it has raise the rear since the shims push the camber arms out and this also pushing the level sensor

So you get like a double effect? Does it look like: Alternative, DIY refresh Model X rear camber correction

 

[CuriousM3]

It looks like it…. Not sure if its just placebo or not but i do noticed the rear every so slightly higher due to the change in the position of where the link mount to on the camber arm

and since he has the lower link, he can dial some of that back out as needed to level it out

 

[CuriousM3]

When parked on a level surface is everyone’s suspension height the same on the display? I never check prior to the shims but my rear are higher than the front values which I suspect is due to the shims affecting the position of the lowering link

 

[towndrunk]

When parked on a level surface is everyone’s suspension height the same on the display? I never check prior to the shims but my rear are higher than the front values which I suspect is due to the shims affecting the position of the lowering link

I believe someone on Youtube made the same comment.

 

[NJturtlePower]

When parked on a level surface is everyone’s suspension height the same on the display? I never check prior to the shims but my rear are higher than the front values which I suspect is due to the shims affecting the position of the lowering link

The rear was always higher.... About and inch more fender gap than the front.

I went a little lower with my links in the rear to balance it out, but when the rear is loaded it will be much closer to the front.

 

[CuriousM3]

When you dial the in2itive link to -6 , is that extending the link or shortening it?

 

[NJturtlePower]

When you dial the in2itive link to -6 , is that extending the link or shortening it?

-6 would be extended to allow more "drop" or lowering.

"0" would be OEM link length. +5 would be approximately ADDING an inch of ground clearance.

 

[CuriousM3]

So thinking this thru, if I added the shims , pushing the camber arms out by 6mm, thus moving the mounting point if the link out as well, it will have the effect of shortening the oem link. Shortening the link raises the car, extending the link lowers the car. So it makes sense why I now have the rear higher than the front.

So the 6mm shim has added maybe the equivalent of a +4/5/6 mm extension thus raising the rear about 3/4-1 inch