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electricdave,
You have provided the proof of the primary failure mode these are experiencing!

Their casting is probably cooling too quickly at that end as the break appears at the end where the liquid metal is poured in. You see how jagged that break is? That is the boundary where the two sides of the mold tried to join, and didn't quite fully join before starting to cool and crystallize. I am not a casting expert, but my limited experience would suggest they need need to increase the pool of metal above the part so this section can fully join together, or pour that end as a solid, and then drill the hole out during machining. Probably doing both should yield the properties that they need.

The bad news, inspecting this point of the part via die penetrant is going to be tricky, due to it's location, and it's probable porosity. The flip side is that inspecting for porosity might reveal this condition as a new part. Xray would be more likely to show this error though, but that is a time consuming process.

What we could do is determine if there is a specific steering and suspension angle that we could park/jack the car into that puts static stress on this part and then go carefully inspect for any small cracks in this area when they are being opened by the static stress. If this were an airplane and that was a device controlling a flight control surface, it would be recalled.
 
I think my car is at service center for similar issue. 2016 Model X 65,000 miles. They are charging me $3300 to fix just one of the control arms. They said 7100 for both but the left was just preventative and I can’t afford to do both. they said they were worn down and scraping but once I have the service done I’ll post receipt for what was actually done. I will be fighting that cost if this is an actual known issue...
 
I think my car is at service center for similar issue. 2016 Model X 65,000 miles. They are charging me $3300 to fix just one of the control arms. They said 7100 for both but the left was just preventative and I can’t afford to do both. they said they were worn down and scraping but once I have the service done I’ll post receipt for what was actually done. I will be fighting that cost if this is an actual known issue...

Say what? These are some quoted prices for model S suspension parts. Is the X that much different?

Another front suspension control arm failure
 
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10110741-9999.pdf


Observe the design of the new forelink. It has approx. 16mm bosses either side of the link near the small end. These are leads from the casting mould. They most likely found the smaller leads of the earlier design caused defects. You may be able to feel these bosses by running your fingers along the link. I dispute the range of the above nhtsa tsb. I think it affects all pre facelift models. If you have the earlier forelink either left or right it is most likely to fail by shock loads causing ovality to the original circle. Check:eek:pen up the small end & remove the rubber. Measure the longer A & the smaller B. Calculate A/B , subtract 1. If this figure exceeds 0.1 there is risk of failure. Approach Tesla for replacement warranty support.
 

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Ok so just received my car back. I asked them to not do the full $7000 in repairs because i couldn't afford it. They said only the right side really needed the repairs... so $2745 total.. I looks like they replaced Lower fore links, the exact Parts numbers that are supposed to be replaced here... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10110741-9999.pdf ... before i fight them on this, should they be covering this repair even though im out of warranty?
Screen Shot 2020-01-21 at 3.33.20 PM.png
Screen Shot 2020-01-21 at 3.33.31 PM.png
 
before i fight them on this, should they be covering this repair even though im out of warranty?

That is a TSB, not a recall it looks like. I dont know if TSBs are required to be fixed out of warranty (vs recalls). They can if they choose, but they may not. I remember a TSB on my Tacoma that was like that: a known problem, but if you were out of warranty you had to pay out of pocket.

Probably worth arguing for the goodwill considering it is a known issue and the costs involved.
 
I looks like they replaced Lower fore links, the exact Parts numbers that are supposed to be replaced here... https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10110741-9999.pdf ... before i fight them on this, should they be covering this repair even though im out of warranty?

TSBs are just information to help techs diagnosis and perform repairs. They have no impact on your warranty coverage. (They aren't like a recall where the work is covered even out of warranty.)
 
$1661.50 is the relevant cost here to talk to them about. Axle boots rot away over the years so no real surprise there.

I would certainly ask them about it as it is clearly a safety related manufacturing defect. The part wasn't built properly, it didn't corrode or wear down causing the failure, it had a bad casting that cracks for no other reason than it was made improperly. Hopefully you asked for the old parts back. That makes it much easier to explain.
 
I think my car is at service center for similar issue. 2016 Model X 65,000 miles. They are charging me $3300 to fix just one of the control arms. They said 7100 for both but the left was just preventative and I can’t afford to do both. they said they were worn down and scraping but once I have the service done I’ll post receipt for what was actually done. I will be fighting that cost if this is an actual known issue...

Utterly insane to charge a customer so much money for a part that one would expect to last 100k miles. Where is Tesla's "Goodwill" on this?!?

I sure as heck hope the new part won't have the same part number--a "-B" or "-C" suffix would be expected, especially for what they're charging . . .
 
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2017/MC-10110741-9999.pdf


Observe the design of the new forelink. It has approx. 16mm bosses either side of the link near the small end. These are leads from the casting mould. They most likely found the smaller leads of the earlier design caused defects. You may be able to feel these bosses by running your fingers along the link. I dispute the range of the above nhtsa tsb. I think it affects all pre facelift models. If you have the earlier forelink either left or right it is most likely to fail by shock loads causing ovality to the original circle. Check:eek:pen up the small end & remove the rubber. Measure the longer A & the smaller B. Calculate A/B , subtract 1. If this figure exceeds 0.1 there is risk of failure. Approach Tesla for replacement warranty support.

Your picture has the revised part number on it that is supposed to not break. Is this link pictured one that broke????
 
This just happened to me about 30 min ago on a flat road, snapped when I made a right turn. Getting a tow now.
No warranty for you!

(Your rims appear to have been painted? That's a modification and it's obviously a contributing factor to the suspension abuse you've been doing to your car as paint is VERY heavy and unduly stressed your suspension beyond its design limits. So there!)

Seriously, there have been so many of these that I'd suggest an entry to this site so as to get these bad parts replaced before someone gets hurt, obviously at Tesla's expense:

safercar.gov
 
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