fsSnowboard
Member
I installed my NVX sub kit over the weekend. I have an SR+, so I am using the TeslaOffer harness so I don’t tap factory wiring. They now list a harness with sub leads, you should probably get that one. I used the TeslaOffer installation video and the NVX installation video to get things installed.
Here are some of the things I used to mount and install the amp and LOC. These weren’t included in the NVX kit.
8 #8 ¾” machine screws
5 #8 1” machine screws
26 #8 washers
16 #8 or #10 bonded sealing washers (these have rubber on one side and metal on the other)
Loctite
24” x 18” x.25” Acrylic
TesslaOffer speaker activation harness
2 1’ square felt pieces
Heat shrink of various diameters
Wire Ferrules
Tessa Tape
Wire kit for LOC power
2 Male to Male RCA Adapter
I tapped into the left and right front door woofers on the TeslaOffer harness. I used this pin out graphic for assistance in accessing the correct wires. Forgive me, i just saved the image and I don't remember who on this board posted it.
I was planning on removing the pins from the TeslaOffer harness to remove insulation and solder my new wires to the sub and seal with heat shrink, but wasn’t able to get the pins to properly release. I broke some of the plastic of the first pin I tried so decided to just use some taps instead. I used 16 gauge Red, brown and orange wires to match the factory harness colors, and I labeled with my labeler maker.
The SR+ has this piece of plastic on the right side of the trunk where the premium audio sub and amp are. I used this as the base for mounting the NVX LOC and amp.
I made a cardboard template of the area around the model 3 support bracket, then traced that onto the piece of 24” x 18” Acrylic I got from Home Depot. I got the thicker stuff that was almost ¼” thick. I used a hole saw for the curve, and a regular circular saw with a fine tooth blade for the straight edges.
When you are mounting the acrylic to the factory support, do a test fit to make sure things line up properly before drilling the holes.
I lined up the acrylic I cut and the factory bracket, then drilled holes. The factory bracket has a type of large honeycomb structure to add support to it. I used some clamps to hold the two pieces in place and drill my holes for mounting both together.
I mounted the amp and the LOC to the acrylic with some #6 ¾” bolts. I got some bonded sealing washers from home depot to use on both sides of the acrylic to reduce potential vibration. I also used Loctite on the bolts where the nuts would rest.
Mounting the acrylic to the M3 plastic piece I used #8 1” bolts with washers, nuts and Loctite. I used some felt between the two pieces to also reduce vibration.
I used a set of male to male RCA adapters to plug straight from the LOC to the amp using the existing amp pigtail. I had some large clear heatshrink, so I used that to help keep these connected. For the other wires I terminated with wire ferrules and heatshrink. For the ground, I found unpainted surface under one of the trunk hinge bolts.
My kit was missing the jacknut, so the speaker isn’t in the car yet. Everything is tested and working as I have it setup. I next need to work on tuning the amp and LOC.
Here are some of the things I used to mount and install the amp and LOC. These weren’t included in the NVX kit.
8 #8 ¾” machine screws
5 #8 1” machine screws
26 #8 washers
16 #8 or #10 bonded sealing washers (these have rubber on one side and metal on the other)
Loctite
24” x 18” x.25” Acrylic
TesslaOffer speaker activation harness
2 1’ square felt pieces
Heat shrink of various diameters
Wire Ferrules
Tessa Tape
Wire kit for LOC power
2 Male to Male RCA Adapter
I tapped into the left and right front door woofers on the TeslaOffer harness. I used this pin out graphic for assistance in accessing the correct wires. Forgive me, i just saved the image and I don't remember who on this board posted it.
I was planning on removing the pins from the TeslaOffer harness to remove insulation and solder my new wires to the sub and seal with heat shrink, but wasn’t able to get the pins to properly release. I broke some of the plastic of the first pin I tried so decided to just use some taps instead. I used 16 gauge Red, brown and orange wires to match the factory harness colors, and I labeled with my labeler maker.
The SR+ has this piece of plastic on the right side of the trunk where the premium audio sub and amp are. I used this as the base for mounting the NVX LOC and amp.
I made a cardboard template of the area around the model 3 support bracket, then traced that onto the piece of 24” x 18” Acrylic I got from Home Depot. I got the thicker stuff that was almost ¼” thick. I used a hole saw for the curve, and a regular circular saw with a fine tooth blade for the straight edges.
When you are mounting the acrylic to the factory support, do a test fit to make sure things line up properly before drilling the holes.
I lined up the acrylic I cut and the factory bracket, then drilled holes. The factory bracket has a type of large honeycomb structure to add support to it. I used some clamps to hold the two pieces in place and drill my holes for mounting both together.
I mounted the amp and the LOC to the acrylic with some #6 ¾” bolts. I got some bonded sealing washers from home depot to use on both sides of the acrylic to reduce potential vibration. I also used Loctite on the bolts where the nuts would rest.
Mounting the acrylic to the M3 plastic piece I used #8 1” bolts with washers, nuts and Loctite. I used some felt between the two pieces to also reduce vibration.
I used a set of male to male RCA adapters to plug straight from the LOC to the amp using the existing amp pigtail. I had some large clear heatshrink, so I used that to help keep these connected. For the other wires I terminated with wire ferrules and heatshrink. For the ground, I found unpainted surface under one of the trunk hinge bolts.
My kit was missing the jacknut, so the speaker isn’t in the car yet. Everything is tested and working as I have it setup. I next need to work on tuning the amp and LOC.