Anyone buy w/o AP?

[Yinn]

We just put down our deposit on a 60D. Like everyone else, I scoured and searched to make sure our options list was right, etc. Our OA strongly suggested AP 2.0, and now the idea is running around in my head.

Here's my situation, we are getting rid of a minivan and really the 60D just barely made it for us. Without it and left with 75D as an option, we would not be able to get into a Tesla. We essentially went with all of the no cost options, electing for only the Rear Facing Seats - as per above, we are replacing a minivan so this was a required option for us.

The total cost of our build comes out to be $76,200. We could stretch a little, but now that AP 2.0 is $5,000 instead of $3,000; that extra bit really puts us beyond even our stretch. Another option is to delay my purchase so I can save the difference for the car. I wanted to get thoughts from owners on it.

Did anyone avoid it in their build, only to activate and pay more for it later?
Did anyone buy it and find that it wasn't really necessary? The OA seemed to suggest that it was silly to purchase a Tesla without it's featured option.

 

[Max*]

You're probably not going to like this but...

1. I thought my kids would think the RFS would be the coolest thing since sliced bread. My daughter hates it and gets car sick. 99% of the time she refuses to use them.
2. Not only that, on the rare occasion they are in the RFS, they are much closer to each other than when they are in carseats/boosters, so they tend to fight more.
3. The RFSs are not usable in the summer. There is no AC back there. If it's hotter than about 80F (and sunny), my kids do NOT go back there. Otherwise they come out red like a tomato. And I do have the rear shade, and ceramic heat reducing tints.

4. While this is none of my business, the way you phrased it is that you can't afford to spend an extra $5,000 on the car, not that you can't justify it.
If that came off accurately, are you sure you need a new car? Maybe look at something [much] cheaper, or if you're set on getting a Tesla, ask for inventory or CPO cars that could be below $76k and give you enough breathing room.
Now, if it's a question of justifying another $5k, I totally get that.

 

[pilotSteve]

This poll is missing the obvious 3rd and 4th choices: "Get it with EAP" and "Get it with EAP and FSD".

I went for the whole enchilada: EAP and FSD.

 

[bmah]

Did anyone buy it and find that it wasn't really necessary? The OA seemed to suggest that it was silly to purchase a Tesla without it's featured option.

First, welcome to the TMC forums!

None of the AP options are truly necessary. There were many thousands of Model S cars sold before the AP 1.0 software was even released to the public, and we drove those cars just fine before AP came along. Your car would be perfectly usable without any of the "autopilot convenience options", and if you change your mind you can always turn on EAP later for a fee.

I was thinking something along the lines of @Max* with respect to finances...I don't have anything to add to his comments except to say it makes me a little nervous when people talk about having to streeetch their finances to afford a car.

One other comment about the rear-facing seats...you can put two kids back there today, but kids have this interesting property of growing taller and heavier, and at some point they just won't fit back there anymore (Tesla must have height and weight guidelines documented somewhere).

Good luck!

Bruce.

 

[Yinn]

You're probably not going to like this but...

I appreciate the honesty. For us, it's mostly a carpool situation helping family out instead of long trips. (e.g. Picking up niece/nephew on the way and dropping them off 5-10 miles later at home/practice.) What do you think of the RFS for those situations?

As for 4, it would not be a fiscally irresponsible purchase for us. We've been saving for a car and will be purchasing outright. The long term financials surprisingly worked out to cost less than a fully loaded Acura MDX, Toyota Sienna, or Ford Explorer; which made this justifiable for us. The initial price is admittedly higher than those cars, so we would be dipping into and delaying savings for other luxuries to make up the difference; but it wouldn't be a dinner or Tesla scenario The EAP though, would actually require us to delay (and justifying) the purchase to save the extra $5000 for as we're not too keen on financing luxuries.

 

[wesley888]

This poll is missing the obvious 3rd and 4th choices: "Get it with EAP" and "Get it with EAP and FSD".

I went for the whole enchilada: EAP and FSD.

What he said, and same here.

 

[Max*]

What do you think of the RFS for those situations?

Short trips can be done temperature independent. I wouldn't take my kids (or someone elses kids) in the RFS for a 30minute drive in 95F weather though.

Also, I've noticed that other kids love the RFS much more than my kids. I think the novelty just wore off.

To further on @bmah point for the RFS: the weight limit is 35lbs to 77lbs. There is no maximum height limit (minimum is 37"), but the ears need to be below the headrest.

The EAP though, would actually require us to delay (and justifying) the purchase to save the extra $5000 for as we're not too keen on financing luxuries.

Ah, understood.

I don't use AP1.0 much in the city, but on long distance trips (and we take enough of them), it's a lifesaver. Makes the commute much more enjoyable. So if you're looking at 90% long distance travel I'd say EAP is a must. If you're looking at 5% long distance/highway travel, EAP could be ignored. And the good thing is that you could change your mind 2 years down the road.

Also, since they're changing hardware, no one knows how long it'll take for EAP/AP2.0 to be better than AP 1.0. A month? a year? etc.

 

[Ormond]

I appreciate the honesty. For us, it's mostly a carpool situation helping family out instead of long trips. (e.g. Picking up niece/nephew on the way and dropping them off 5-10 miles later at home/practice.) What do you think of the RFS for those situations?

As for 4, it would not be a fiscally irresponsible purchase for us. We've been saving for a car and will be purchasing outright. The long term financials surprisingly worked out to cost less than a fully loaded Acura MDX, Toyota Sienna, or Ford Explorer; which made this justifiable for us. .

Did you consider the new Chrysler Pacifica Hybrid? It's a plug-in minivan and may better suit your needs and budget. I think it's electric only range is 30 miles. In another thread, there's an informative video by Alex on Autos showing its features. It's not a sexy Tesla, but it may be far more practical for your family. I just bought a Model X, so I opted for the sexier, less practical option.

 

[LVGhost]

I think it really depends on your situation. Currently I have a 75 with AP1. I don't use it much except to show it off to friends or on long drives (vegas to southern California) where it is very valuable. I'm going to order a S60 in the next week or so for my wife. Even though it will be equipped with AP2.0 hardware I don't think we are going to pay to activate it. For everyday commuting I really don't think AP is that important because the car is just so fun to drive. My advice is to order your car without it and if the technology becomes really good just activate it later. Hope this helps.

 

[JimmyMcNulty]

Even though it will be equipped with AP2.0 hardware I don't think we are going to pay to activate it. For everyday commuting I really don't think AP is that important because the car is just so fun to drive. My advice is to order your car without it and if the technology becomes really good just activate it later. Hope this helps.

Exactly my thoughts. My S90D will be delivered in December with AP2.0 hardware, but I'm not paying for any of it yet. I opted for spending more towards the range (hence the choice of 90D), and if/when the tech becomes great, I can turn it on via credit card and get some points on that purchase.

 

[MP3Mike]

Another option is to delay my purchase so I can save the difference for the car.

That probably isn't a good option since I think the price of the Model S 60 goes up $2,000 in about a week. (I assume it applies to the 60D as well as the normal 60.)

 

[Aieukl378]

We just put down our deposit on a 60D. Like everyone else, I scoured and searched to make sure our options list was right, etc. Our OA strongly suggested AP 2.0, and now the idea is running around in my head.

Here's my situation, we are getting rid of a minivan and really the 60D just barely made it for us. Without it and left with 75D as an option, we would not be able to get into a Tesla. We essentially went with all of the no cost options, electing for only the Rear Facing Seats - as per above, we are replacing a minivan so this was a required option for us.

The total cost of our build comes out to be $76,200. We could stretch a little, but now that AP 2.0 is $5,000 instead of $3,000; that extra bit really puts us beyond even our stretch. Another option is to delay my purchase so I can save the difference for the car. I wanted to get thoughts from owners on it.

Did anyone avoid it in their build, only to activate and pay more for it later?
Did anyone buy it and find that it wasn't really necessary? The OA seemed to suggest that it was silly to purchase a Tesla without it's featured option.

I'm onboard with most here regarding AP: Super fantastic for highway trips but not so necessary around town.

 

[steveho]

I went the other way, I am financing the car, even though I could probably pay it in cash. The 1.99 or 1.75% financing is basically very low cost money. Yes, I'm financing it over 6 years, but I'm likely to pay it off in 3 years anyway. But the point of financing is that I don't need to save the next $5000 to purchase. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a big spender, but in fact frugal to a point. This would be the only debt that I would have besides my mortgage, which I am paying off in 6 years (I'm 2 years into a 30 year mortgage).

SO I opted for EAP for $5000, on a 60D, with blue, and a sunroof.

 

[Krypto Kat]

We just put down our deposit on a 60D.

Me too.

....we are getting rid of a minivan....

You'll miss it. The most practical and comfortable vehicle class, regardless of price.

...Rear Facing Seats

Your kids will soon hate it, but their friends will love it.

....but now that AP 2.0 is $5,000 instead of $3,000...
Did anyone avoid it in their build, only to activate and pay more for it later?

Thought about it and personally Autopilot is the only feature that I am buying a Tesla for . If not I could get a faster, more luxurious car (heck even two different cars) for the price on one tesla 60D.

Why pay $1000-2000 more later? one reason being you don't have the money now. How about financing with the autopilot added on and paying of sooner? This would be cheaper than the $2000 activation charge.

 

[jeepn30]

I've had my car for about 3 to 4 weeks now, and my 4 kids FIGHT over who sits in the rear facing seats. All 4 of them absolutely love it. They are 7,6,4, and 3. I can't imagine going on a long trip with them in the car because the luggage wouldn't fit in the frunk for all of them. I bought mine certified pre owned, and was almost pristine when I picked it up. Definitely more bang for the buck if autopilot isn't really a concern. For me it isn't because I LOVE driving this car.

 

[NAVALARCHITECT]

I went the other way, I am financing the car, even though I could probably pay it in cash. The 1.99 or 1.75% financing is basically very low cost money. Yes, I'm financing it over 6 years, but I'm likely to pay it off in 3 years anyway. But the point of financing is that I don't need to save the next $5000 to purchase. Don't get me wrong, I'm not a big spender, but in fact frugal to a point. This would be the only debt that I would have besides my mortgage, which I am paying off in 6 years (I'm 2 years into a 30 year mortgage).

SO I opted for EAP for $5000, on a 60D, with blue, and a sunroof.

Exactly the same here! I got 1.75% but plan to pay it off in 2-3. EAP all the way. FS-DC is what im juggling with, include it or not.

 

[justg0]

I ordered 60D with EAP. The only reason I am getting a new Tesla is for the EAP, else I would have gone with a CPO. I test drove AP1 and was so impressed. Can't wait to see how much EAP will be better. And I love driving, so I am going to self drive a lot too. Get the best of both worlds!

 

[steveho]

The main reason i went with the 60D with EAP is that comparing the price to a P85 CPO, it was a no-brainer. The P85-CPO is about $56000. It has speed that I really don't need (0-60 in 4.2). I really want D and EAP both of which the P85-CPO doesn't have. These two options are about $10,000, plus the $7500 tax credit (no additional credit in Minnesota), and my cost comparison is $66,000 for the P85-CPO vs $70,000 for the 60D. (obviously plus taxes, destination, etc). This way I'm getting a brand new car (which I don't mind used), for about $4000 difference, since I wanted the $10k of options.

 

[Yinn]

I think it really depends on your situation. Currently I have a 75 with AP1. I don't use it much except to show it off to friends or on long drives (vegas to southern California) where it is very valuable. I'm going to order a S60 in the next week or so for my wife. Even though it will be equipped with AP2.0 hardware I don't think we are going to pay to activate it. For everyday commuting I really don't think AP is that important because the car is just so fun to drive. My advice is to order your car without it and if the technology becomes really good just activate it later. Hope this helps.

Thank you, this one speaks to me the most. I appreciate everyone's answer, but rather than a theoretical would you do it again, you actually got a 2nd one, and didn't do it.

 

[JRMW]

Steveho,
Can you run your 60D math for me please? Trying to figure out how you got $70k including EAP and pano roof.

Did you opt out of subzero package?
Are you doing textile seats?

When I run your stated configuration on Teslamotors.com I get $79k
(Blue, dual motor, sunroof, EAP, no interior or wheel upgrade, no subzero)
Minus $1k referral would be 78k
Minus $7500 tax is $70.5k

If you add Subzero we are at $71.5k

Not trying to put you on spot, but my test drive is today and I plan to order today
I want to make sure I'm not leaving money on the table. (Even if it's just $1000)

My plan is 60D, midnight silver, glossy obeche, subzero.
$73,750
Minus $1k referral. Minus $7500 tax rebate. $65250 total.