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AP1 ONLY Please -- life after 2018.50.6

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Lost 6 miles after the latest update 2020.20.1. Went from 252 to 246 :-(
2014 S85 AP1
I did perform the update to 2020.20.1 on AP1/MCU1 and the only changelog that was only listed as "This release contains minor improvements and bug fixes". Doing quick math on what is presented to me 75% battery and 199 mile puts me about 265 mile range which is right where my calculations were before the update.
 
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Can someone validate this browser "feature" for me.

1. Fiddle with browser until it freezes.
2. Using voice command say "Google test"
3. See if the browser suddenly pops back to life.

So far its worked for my 2016 MCU1/AP1 every time.

I also found that browsing via voice command works fairly well. For example if I need to see the open status of a store just say "google store" and Google usually has the store i need in the top 5 stores so I dont have to scroll. And if I google the thing first and tap the link vs typing it in it seems to respond better. I wish it were a little smarter where I could say "browse to X" and it would add the https://.
 
Can someone validate this browser "feature" for me.

1. Fiddle with browser until it freezes.
2. Using voice command say "Google test"
3. See if the browser suddenly pops back to life.

So far its worked for my 2016 MCU1/AP1 every time.

I also found that browsing via voice command works fairly well. For example if I need to see the open status of a store just say "google store" and Google usually has the store i need in the top 5 stores so I dont have to scroll. And if I google the thing first and tap the link vs typing it in it seems to respond better. I wish it were a little smarter where I could say "browse to X" and it would add the https://.
I’ll try later when my browser is dead if this helps.

Personally I prefer to use the navigation to find out whether a place is open or not.
And you can either touch on the map that place, or with the voice command “where is <business>” with optionally “In/near <city/town/country>: works even when the browser is out of order.
 
Can someone validate this browser "feature" for me.

1. Fiddle with browser until it freezes.
2. Using voice command say "Google test"
3. See if the browser suddenly pops back to life.

So far its worked for my 2016 MCU1/AP1 every time.

Nope. didnt work for me. had my browser with the "white screen of death" and not able to load any website. I tried "Google test" with the broswer open and closed and still had the white screen. Had to do the "2 finger salute" to get browser functional again.
 
Nope. didnt work for me. had my browser with the "white screen of death" and not able to load any website. I tried "Google test" with the broswer open and closed and still had the white screen. Had to do the "2 finger salute" to get browser functional again.

I hardly use the web browser on our 2015 Tesla S 85 but I tried it today it it brought up "finance.yahoo.com" fairly quickly. Of course I did not stress test by going to multiple websites.
 
I did perform the update to 2020.20.1 on AP1/MCU1 and the only changelog that was only listed as "This release contains minor improvements and bug fixes". Doing quick math on what is presented to me 75% battery and 199 mile puts me about 265 mile range which is right where my calculations were before the update.

I charged our 2015 Tesla S 85 last night to 80% capacity. For me it translates to 237 miles. It is interesting that it has remained the same (237 miles at 80% charge) since I got the car. I had heard about 5% loss is battery over time. Does that occur at 100% charge? I usually don't charge it to 100% unless we are going on a long trip from Overland Park, KS to Verona, WI. We got 267 miles at 100% charge. We have 20K miles on our car.

I have also observed that the humming (battery pump running) has reduced from before. Today it hummed for about 2 1/2 hours after I disconnected the charger in the morning. I think it also lost 3 miles.
 
I charged our 2015 Tesla S 85 last night to 80% capacity. For me it translates to 237 miles. It is interesting that it has remained the same (237 miles at 80% charge) since I got the car. I had heard about 5% loss is battery over time. Does that occur at 100% charge? I usually don't charge it to 100% unless we are going on a long trip from Overland Park, KS to Verona, WI. We got 267 miles at 100% charge. We have 20K miles on our car.

I have also observed that the humming (battery pump running) has reduced from before. Today it hummed for about 2 1/2 hours after I disconnected the charger in the morning. I think it also lost 3 miles.

My 90% was 269 when new, it dropped to 268 and stayed there for over three years. After the update that did the battery recalculations last year I charged to 95% one day and it dropped to 261. I was on a road trip. After the drop, on one leg of the trip I did about 200 miles, fairly flat, little wind, and got 285 Wh/Mi which is the EPA power usage for my car. The miles remaining after that leg was 168 miles.
 
I’m new to this world and very confused about something. In my 2016 90D I’ve never seen anything averaging close to sub 300 wh/mi. I’m always over 300 and closer to 320 and that’s on a long trip with range mode on and chill acceleration and the suspension set to low always, 19” wheels too. What am I doing wrong? I do have the rear facing seats. Is it possible the extra weight from those seats is causing the car to have to work harder?
 
I’m new to this world and very confused about something. In my 2016 90D I’ve never seen anything averaging close to sub 300 wh/mi. I’m always over 300 and closer to 320 and that’s on a long trip with range mode on and chill acceleration and the suspension set to low always, 19” wheels too. What am I doing wrong? I do have the rear facing seats. Is it possible the extra weight from those seats is causing the car to have to work harder?

Is your car pre or post refresh? The post refresh 2016s are more efficient.

The first year I had the car my average Wh/Mi was around 320, but I frequently get under 300 now. I have regen set to Normal, creep mode off, and I try to maximize regen as much as possible when I stop. When going downhill I try to keep the energy meter at 0 or a little bit in regen if its a steep hill. When on the road energy usage is OK under about 65 mph, but goes up sharply with speed. Getting a tailwind helps, and some people will draft behind trucks, but I don't like the reduced visibility.

We live on a hill and the first 1.3 miles leaving home is mostly downhill. I play a game to see if I can get minimal Wh/Mi at the bottom of the hill. I managed 71 today. In mild weather I tend to get the best Wh/Mi. In summer with the AC on I usually get around 100 and in the winter it's usually more than that, even with the heater off. The car is less efficient with a cold soaked battery and the battery heater is sometimes running. But if you're in Oakland, your winters are probably milder than Portland's. Our average winter day is in the 40s.

Some of the Wh/Mi seems to be down to the individual car too. I think some cars have more rolling resistance in the moving parts and your tires can make a difference too. I currently have Michelin MXMs.
 
Is your car pre or post refresh? The post refresh 2016s are more efficient.

The first year I had the car my average Wh/Mi was around 320, but I frequently get under 300 now. I have regen set to Normal, creep mode off, and I try to maximize regen as much as possible when I stop. When going downhill I try to keep the energy meter at 0 or a little bit in regen if its a steep hill. When on the road energy usage is OK under about 65 mph, but goes up sharply with speed. Getting a tailwind helps, and some people will draft behind trucks, but I don't like the reduced visibility.

We live on a hill and the first 1.3 miles leaving home is mostly downhill. I play a game to see if I can get minimal Wh/Mi at the bottom of the hill. I managed 71 today. In mild weather I tend to get the best Wh/Mi. In summer with the AC on I usually get around 100 and in the winter it's usually more than that, even with the heater off. The car is less efficient with a cold soaked battery and the battery heater is sometimes running. But if you're in Oakland, your winters are probably milder than Portland's. Our average winter day is in the 40s.

Some of the Wh/Mi seems to be down to the individual car too. I think some cars have more rolling resistance in the moving parts and your tires can make a difference too. I currently have Michelin MXMs.
Post refresh.
Is your car pre or post refresh? The post refresh 2016s are more efficient.

The first year I had the car my average Wh/Mi was around 320, but I frequently get under 300 now. I have regen set to Normal, creep mode off, and I try to maximize regen as much as possible when I stop. When going downhill I try to keep the energy meter at 0 or a little bit in regen if its a steep hill. When on the road energy usage is OK under about 65 mph, but goes up sharply with speed. Getting a tailwind helps, and some people will draft behind trucks, but I don't like the reduced visibility.

We live on a hill and the first 1.3 miles leaving home is mostly downhill. I play a game to see if I can get minimal Wh/Mi at the bottom of the hill. I managed 71 today. In mild weather I tend to get the best Wh/Mi. In summer with the AC on I usually get around 100 and in the winter it's usually more than that, even with the heater off. The car is less efficient with a cold soaked battery and the battery heater is sometimes running. But if you're in Oakland, your winters are probably milder than Portland's. Our average winter day is in the 40s.

Some of the Wh/Mi seems to be down to the individual car too. I think some cars have more rolling resistance in the moving parts and your tires can make a difference too. I currently have Michelin MXMs.

Post refresh but still AP1. I’ve got the Pirelli Cinturato Strada Sport all season tires. Good? Bad?

I suspect that I just need to slow down. I have a habit of setting cruise control at 14 over the limit which means on my trip to Southern California on I-5 I was at 84. I’ll try slowing down on our next trip which is actually to Portland and Seattle.

Still curious though about the weight of the extra two seats.
 
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I suspect that I just need to slow down.

Still curious though about the weight of the extra two seats.

for sure speed is one of the biggest factors in how efficiently the car operates. The other would be cold ambient temperatures. Electric cars are opposite to ice’s too in that they are more efficient in city conditions than highway due to less wind resistance. Maybe you are comparing your highway above the speed limit driving to his rolling around at 40 mph?

And how much autopilot or TACC do you use in traffic? It uses too much brakes for my liking. I rarely touch the brakes in my car; meaning more energy to regen and less to heat.

Make sure your tire pressures are at 45 psi, make sure your brakes are serviced regularly ( less drag; including park brakes)
The extra seats are negligible imo. Same as driving with the mother in law in the back seat.

For reference I can get 185 Wh/km or 296 Wh/mi in my P85D on highways at 125km/h or 78 mph.
 
Post refresh.


Post refresh but still AP1. I’ve got the Pirelli Cinturato Strada Sport all season tires. Good? Bad?

I suspect that I just need to slow down. I have a habit of setting cruise control at 14 over the limit which means on my trip to Southern California on I-5 I was at 84. I’ll try slowing down on our next trip which is actually to Portland and Seattle.

Still curious though about the weight of the extra two seats.

The speed is probably the biggest factor. I've made a couple of trips to California and there are places where you need to get up around 80 or people will be riding your bumper, but most of the time I stay in the 65-75 range.

The tires may be a factor. Sport tires tend to have more rolling resistance than tires designed for electric cars.

The weight of the extra seats is probably not a big factor. On my last trip to California I brought back a bunch of my father's stuff including a bunch of steam locomotive builder plates (every steam engine had a unique plate of cast iron weighing 10+ pounds). The car was probably a few hundred pounds heavier coming back and the energy usage was pretty much the same.
 
I’m new to this world and very confused about something. In my 2016 90D I’ve never seen anything averaging close to sub 300 wh/mi. I’m always over 300 and closer to 320 and that’s on a long trip with range mode on and chill acceleration and the suspension set to low always, 19” wheels too. What am I doing wrong? I do have the rear facing seats. Is it possible the extra weight from those seats is causing the car to have to work harder?

#1 Speed: Slow down. Wind resistance is #1 in determine your efficiency. Stick your arm out the window going 55pm and 75 mph. HUGE difference.
#2 Tires: Low rolling resistance tires can help: The PRIMACY MXM4 is what most of our cars with 19" wheels came with. Having a non energy/green/eco/low rolling resistance can greatly reduce your efficiency. Some people have seen 10% increase in Wh/mi switching away from the stock branded tires.

300-320 Wh/mi isnt too bad I think the EPA rating is right around 295 Wh/mi but slowing down can really help

On Topic: It looks like 2020.20.5 is rolling out to us older cars to fix GPS issues:
Tesla Rolls Out GPS Update Improvements In 2020.20.5 OTA Update
I went for a drive the other day and noticed that my GPS didnt tell me to turn on the highway but the line on the screen told me to, so hopefully it fixes that.
 
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