Some interesting news on the front woofers. And it's clear that they are just woofers with crossover somewhere around 200 Hertz and they get very little mid-range as well
. They are incredibly shallow. Very unlikely that you're going to find an 8-inch woofer that's going to fit in there. Then there's the problem of the custom bracket which essentially is built into the driver frame / speaker back structure. And there is a structural beam on the other side of the magnet. Not much clearance. So the options are probably very limited in terms of drivers that will fit in this space.
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Audiophiles w/ Model 3's
- Thread starter groovyd
- Start date
I was thinking perhaps a light 3db/octave cap across the tweeters on the infinity might be necessary to balance the spectrum but hard to say until they are installed. might get a few caps to play with.
mind carefully measuring the depth from the obstruction to the face of the frame that the front piece snaps into and the distance also of the front piece to where the actual driver mounts? I believe the focal is 2.5" or 63.5mm mounting depth according to their spec.
it looks like a perfect opportunity to custom design a rock solid honeycombed 3d printed housing to mount the focals that bolts onto the existing mounting plate instead of snapping on. Really wish I had some cad software and a printer. Might have to send some outline traces to a friend in Cali who is an AutoCad guru...
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flashflooder
Member
The factory piece is not even all the way around, more of a trapezoidal shape. In other words, not going to be that simple.
flashflooder
Member
In order to do this, you'd have to destroy/cannibalize the existing speakers, as they are glued into the housing.
Well the speaker woofer basket is the housing in a sense. And that sense somebody could design a replacement basket / bracket with the same diameter that sticks out no more than the stock one. Not a lot to work with in terms of mounting depth. Only a few woofers come in at 2 and 1/2 in total depth from front plane to back of magnet.
flashflooder
Member
Yes, that's precisely what I'm currently working on. I've also considered carving out the thin plastic backing on the inside of the door trim speaker area. Would buy another inch or so of clearance, but I'm a little reluctant to take a Dremel to it quite yet.
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Decided to tackle something ambitious like dynamating the trunk. Looks like they put some thin fabric dampening material in strips but the whole cavity still resonated like a biatch. So here's what it looked like afterwards. Should have taken a before picture but I forgot to
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Glamisduner
Active Member
You could trace a pattern and cut some MDF rings and bolt them in place?
Thanks. Let us know how the dynamat turns out. Particularly interested in the impact of road noise in the cabin.
Wish I had taken some more empirical measurements of Highway noise say at 70 mph on the same road. Subjectively the car seems to get a little bit quieter with each round of dynamating, but of course there's no way to eliminate positive expectancy and placebo effects. The doors certainly shut more solidly and with a distinctly different sound.
Glamisduner
Active Member
sound deadening mostly stops vibration, closed cell foam will stop noise more than deadening material. At least from my understanding, but of course adding thickness to the metal would also have some noise canceling affects.
Agreed. They are potentially complementary. Reducing resonance from the subwoofer helps tighten up the bass though. I want to see if I can get access to the subwoofer without disassembling too much and Dynamat the housing heavily.
Glamisduner
Active Member
please take pictures if you do this. I want access to mine too, and stuff it with polyfill.
Glamisduner
Active Member
I would go with whatever these other guys are using. I used RAAMAT on my last install but that was years ago.
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