-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Audiophiles w/ Model 3's
- Thread starter groovyd
- Start date
flashflooder
Member
it's designed to stick to a roof... does not compute.
edit: oh, I see... vertical walls. Well, I'll find out I guess.
flashflooder
Member
There is a video on youtube. Again, it's about as simple as it gets.
Glamisduner
Active Member
It's the heat that kills it afaik. Cars can get really hot in the summer.
Honestly, it might work, but if I'm going to spend my time once I'm not going to chance it, and I'll go with a product that will withstand extreme temperatures.
FatMat vs. Dynamat vs. Hushmat vs. Peel and Seal | StereoChamp
This is what I used in the past Mat and Foam Products - RAAMaudio Inc.
All any of this stuff does is add weight, adding weight changes the resonance frequency. So be sure to price the materials by weight before you decide which to use.
Last edited:
Thanks again - it does look really easy. for sure! One of my questions concerns how adding dampening sheets can use up assembly tolerances, such that things may not bolt back in properly - at least that was a problem in doing a Lexus LS. Have you dynamatted a Model 3 door yet to see where/if this problem comes up, and what the resulting restrictions on dynamat locations might be? BTW, it looks like dynamating would be super easy - might be able to do it without even completely separating the cover from the door.
Last edited:
Will you post pictures of the disassembly process - those would be much appreciated!!
Speaking of which . . . . I did a little research on Amazon, and it would seem that there are three products that get equal to slightly better reviews than Dynamat Extreme (some version of which I used years ago last time I did this). The three are:
Siless 80 mil 36 sq ft Sound Deadening (at about $1.5/sq ft)
Noico 80 mil 36 sq ft car Sound Deadening (at about $1.75/sq ft)
Kilmat 80 mil 36 sq ft Car Sound Deadening (at about $1.5/sq ft)
Noico gets top rating and about a 5/5 star average, the other two about 4.5/5, while Dynamat Extreme (really started this whole product area), and which is also getting 4.5/5 stars, comes in at a whopping $2.70/sq ft. Almost 1.5-2 times the cost of the competition?? Really?
I'm going with Noico. I recall that the installation process with Dynamat involved the need for industrial strength heating, while these other options appear to go on with rollers (and where heating is optional).
Would love to hear from others with experience with these other options or Dynamat.
Hoping that with industrial-grade dampening and some driver upgrades that the sound will approach these KEF beauties;
View attachment 360587
OK, I'm drunk!! It probably won't get within 50 yards of the Blades, but one can always dream
No matter how beautiful your speakers or audio equipment are the power outlet is always a shambles
That is very helpful and gives me some good ideas for novel dynamating locations - you'd be surprised how much road noise is seriously suppressed by carefully covering the front strut towers, which you can get easy access to by popping off that whole front plastic assembly. Those cone-like structures of the front shock/strut towers act as potent resonators for the whole front body system, taking road vibrations and driving them into the body cavity, and doing them in dynamat can sometimes make a big difference.
Last edited:
I could be wrong about this but I'm pretty sure that the better sound insulator stuff in cars is made strictly from butyl rubber while asphalt roofing material is made from asphalt and tar derivatives. Even though butyl rubber of course is derived from petrochemicals, there is a lot of aromatic hydrocarbons coming off that Roofing compound that you're going to be breathing in for a fairly long period of time. I just don't recommend it. They're not just carcinogens they're neurotoxins as well.
One of the commercial products Siless is made from something called Bmastic which is derived from butyl rubber but it's still different, and it's lighter and cheaper. It has a reputation as being stinky too but I'll find out.
I'm going to get small samples of several of these competing products including noico, siless and check out how stinky they are, how much pollution they might be giving off and for how long and how easy they are to apply and how effective. After I've tried several I may pick one and do the whole car.
I'll post back here with pictures and impressions as I go. Would encourage other folks who are undertaking this and learning valuable lessons of one kind or another to do the same. We could all teach each other and thus avoid making the same mistakes repeatedly.
gilscales
Banned
I don't know I used peel & seal in my 400 dollar Maxima when I was still in grad school. If I were to work on my current car now, I might try something more legitimate. I saw that video earlier this year and got a laugh out of it. We all spent like luxury car money on our cars... I don't know... I just don't know lol
Here's another video where the guy positively reviews it but still recommends against using Peel & Seal.
Here's another video where the guy positively reviews it but still recommends against using Peel & Seal.
Last edited:
Fascinating, and excellent work. These validate what I think I'm hearing. Plenty of low bass, decent mid and upper bass, a modest hole in the midrange centered around 600 Hz (which I wasn't sure of from just subjective listening), and a steady rolloff above the upper midrange, progressing and getting more pronounced in the treble. Gives me some targets in terms of setting the EQ to compensate, although that hole in the midrange is probably too narrow and restricted to compensate with the EQ in the car without creating some other lumps in the FR curve. Speaking of which, has anyone measured the response curves of the EQ settings?
Do you or does anybody know if they changed frequency tuning in one of the recent OS updates? I could swear that the system sounds slightly different - where I used to drop the low bass a touch as it was just too much, I now feel I have to run flat on the low bass for adequate drive there. Of course, preference on low bass levels are totally subjective. Some guys can't have too much of it until they generate enough energy in the 20-50Hz range to cause internal hemorrhaging!
I did a fresh measurement with a new calibrated MIC/Preamp here.
Also did measurements to show affect of equalizer and the fader.
REW (Room EQ Wizard) on Model 3
flashflooder
Member
They are full-range drivers. Rear door, trunk shelf, and dash 4”’s are identical.
Glamisduner
Active Member
+1 on Raammat. Can vouch that the BXT+Ensolite combo works as well, if not better, than anything else on the market and the cost can't be beat. Although the price of Raammat has gone up significantly in the last 5-7 years. Back then, I got the 60sq ft combo kit for about $180.
Anyway, I used these in conjunction with MLV (mass loaded vinyl) in my STI and while complete overkill it was as quiet as a coffin.
Yep. Butyl is leaps and bounds ahead of flashing for car audio. Much better at absorbing energy than flashing material due to it's thickness, and won't melt in heat the way flashing almost always does. All it really takes is one day of your interior baking in 100 degree temps and not only will flashing start gassing out, it will deform and start sliding off whatever its adhered to. Not going to be a very pretty install when you pull your door panels at that point.
@flashflooder; Peel n' Stick definitely is not the same as the high end deadening material... for the aspects mentioned above. But if you're looking for a way to kill your new car scent, this stuff can't be beat.
Last edited:
Agreed on all points! After reading, getting some small samples, and seeing a lot of documentation, I've decided to go with Noico.
Here are my reasons for this, admitting that there are a number of excellent options, including the original Dynamat.
1) pure butyl compound, and not a composite with fillers, like Siless, which while containing butyl, also contains other stuff (which is unknown - and which makes removal a nightmare as it reportedly disintegrates)
2) reasonable cost per sq ft
3) top rated product on Amazon among all the options (Fatmat, Dynamat, Siless, Kilmat)
4) not too stinky! Avoid those petrochemical-based roofing products unless you REALLY want CA, liver failure and CNS diseases!!
5) will adhere without heat gun (most products have this feature now - Dynamat used to be a bitch to put on for that reason!)
6) 80 mil thick, which appears to be a sweet spot for single application thickness
As downside, it is somewhat heavier than Siless and at 0.7 lbs per sq ft, not totally lightweight if you put in 50-60+ sq.ft
Will start project on our FL car, along with installing lightweight rotors, MPP Sport coilovers, and new drivers from Baddesign (when they come out).
Last edited:
Similar threads
