Audiophiles w/ Model 3's

[R1Fast]

Agreed on all points! After reading, getting some small samples, and seeing a lot of documentation, I've decided to go with Noico..

Keep us posted... curious how it turns out especially the odor. That was the main reason I chose Raammat on my last car; it was nearly odorless post-install and completely gone within a few days.

There have been a lot of advancements in deadening with the flood of brands hitting the market. Noico looks like the best choice of those you listed. The diamond stamping seems like it might have more flexibility to mould to concave surfaces, which has always been a hurdle with the 'flat' sheets like Raammat. Took a lot of force to conform on intricate areas and often folded/wrinkled over itself or tore in the process. Didn't really effect performance, but made the install look a bit amateur.

I also like that Noico has a black variant and optional CCF that they claim is waterproof.

Edit: DIYMA is a great resource for this stuff. Here is a post with some member feedback on Noico... seems legit.

There was a showdown among the top brands and SDS and KnuKonceptz were the highest rated (51 pages, here's the final results). SDS is just way overpriced regardless of how good it is. I love Knu's installation hardware, never tried their 'Kno Knoise' (lol) deadener but at roughly 2x the price of Noico I probably never will. There is a lot of buzz about Noico in that thread as well so I'll be reading up more on the stuff.

 

[Thomas Edison]

I saw a video on YouTube about 6 months ago that shows how to remove the trunk floor and side carpet. I haven’t been able to find it again. Does anyone know of the video I’m talking about?

 

[Jaywlker]

Just got my AWD Model 3 and consider myself a bit of an audiophile. While the audio is pretty good for a stock configuration I wanted to start a thread here for other audio fanatics to discuss opinions and improvements that may be made; for example equalizer settings for a true flat response? potential subwoofer additions? interior treatments to improve the sound? etc...

I'll start off by saying I found the sound improved by a +1.0 boost in the sub-bass (second slider from the left) and a 20% fade to the back. Immersive mode I am still experimenting with but find the auto volume on speed attitude of the car is not very good. Really wishing they added a replay gain feature.

here's some threads I found around the webs about Model 3 audio...

Optimal Audio Equalizer Settings | Tesla
Audiophiles share your best Model 3 audio settings for overall best sound quality [Discussion] : teslamotors
Thoughts on Immersive Sound on the Model 3
Frequency sweep and response test in Model 3

Thank you all for posting your expertise and knowledge in this thread. I am a Marine Corps veteran (48 years old) that did a year overseas, and I have tinnitus. The M3 (mine included) has the best sound system I’ve ever listened to, but I find your group knowledge and various suggestions helpful. Driving the M3 has proven to be soothing, relaxing, and exhilirating, and I appreciate the sound quality aspects and potential improvements. My personal experience of not always having superb hearing across all frequency ranges makes me appreciate the frequency ranges that I can listen to. So, thank you! Keep posting your knowledge and expertise!

 

[dfwatt]

Keep us posted... curious how it turns out especially the odor. That was the main reason I chose Raammat on my last car; it was nearly odorless post-install and completely gone within a few days.

There have been a lot of advancements in deadening with the flood of brands hitting the market. Noico looks like the best choice of those you listed. The diamond stamping seems like it might have more flexibility to mould to concave surfaces, which has always been a hurdle with the 'flat' sheets like Raammat. Took a lot of force to conform on intricate areas and often folded/wrinkled over itself or tore in the process. Didn't really effect performance, but made the install look a bit amateur.

I also like that Noico has a black variant and optional CCF that they claim is waterproof.

Edit: DIYMA is a great resource for this stuff. Here is a post with some member feedback on Noico... seems legit.

There was a showdown among the top brands and SDS and KnuKonceptz were the highest rated (51 pages, here's the final results). SDS is just way overpriced regardless of how good it is. I love Knu's installation hardware, never tried their 'Kno Knoise' (lol) deadener but at roughly 2x the price of Noico I probably never will. There is a lot of buzz about Noico in that thread as well so I'll be reading up more on the stuff.

Great find on that empirical testing R1. it is a chore that he didn't post sonographs of all the products on a single page. What struck me is how similar the curves look? Seems like the differences aren't as great as the basic similarity? I didn't go the extra yard to cut and paste ten+ curves to a single page to have the luxury of a more detailed comparison, but that's my impression - is that yours also? And also unfortunately, he didn't test Noico, Siless, Fatmat, and Kilmat?

 

[R1Fast]

Yeah it was a small pain to navigate the list for sure, and its too bad more of the brands in this thread weren't measured. That roundup is a couple of years old so they may not have been readily available at the time.

But you're right, the curves are roughly the same without a huge delta between the top and bottom of the list from what I can see. Most (if not all) of them would probably do a decent job with vibration damping/control although that's only one element of a complete audiophile solution. IMO proper placement (targeting large, unsupported areas), air sealing and decoupling are really where the bang-for-the-buck lies and where results can vary less subtly depending on the knowledge level and investment time by the installer.

I have a Dayton UMM-6 and will probably do some before and after testing when I get around to this project (one in a long list) to learn how effective the effort really is at addressing road noise and cabin audio quality in this vehicle. But with the new year I'll be swamped with work and with the cold weather it might not happen til early spring.

 

[dfwatt]

Keep us posted... curious how it turns out especially the odor. That was the main reason I chose Raammat on my last car; it was nearly odorless post-install and completely gone within a few days.

There have been a lot of advancements in deadening with the flood of brands hitting the market. Noico looks like the best choice of those you listed. The diamond stamping seems like it might have more flexibility to mould to concave surfaces, which has always been a hurdle with the 'flat' sheets like Raammat. Took a lot of force to conform on intricate areas and often folded/wrinkled over itself or tore in the process. Didn't really effect performance, but made the install look a bit amateur.

I also like that Noico has a black variant and optional CCF that they claim is waterproof.

Edit: DIYMA is a great resource for this stuff. Here is a post with some member feedback on Noico... seems legit.

There was a showdown among the top brands and SDS and KnuKonceptz were the highest rated (51 pages, here's the final results). SDS is just way overpriced regardless of how good it is. I love Knu's installation hardware, never tried their 'Kno Knoise' (lol) deadener but at roughly 2x the price of Noico I probably never will. There is a lot of buzz about Noico in that thread as well so I'll be reading up more on the stuff.

I just got a couple of small patches of the Noico, just to test it out on a small area. It does have some smell but it's not too bad. I plan on doing just a door at a time, and letting each one of those dry out for a couple of days while I don't need the car in a nice warm area. I'm hoping that within 72 hours there's really no longer any significant smell. I'll let you know. As a tweakophile (defined as someone addicted to the improvement of all technology whenever possible), I'm looking forward to starting this process.

Thanks again for digging out all that information.

 

[dfwatt]

Does anybody with experience in disassembling the Model 3 rear door think that this speaker from Morel would potentially fit? it's expensive at $145 a pop ($290 for a pair) but it's close in impedance to the stock driver, not too deep and clearly way more full range/high quality and reasonably sensitive at 89 db.

 

[flashflooder]

Does anybody with experience in disassembling the Model 3 rear door think that this speaker from Morel would potentially fit? it's expensive at $145 a pop ($290 for a pair) but it's close in impedance to the stock driver, not too deep and clearly way more full range/high quality and reasonably sensitive at 89 db.

The rear door speakers are fused into the door trim plastic. So, it will probably fit... but installing it will be insanely difficult. Those speakers might work in the trunk lid, though. I Haven’t figured out how to get to those yet.

 

[dfwatt]

The rear door speakers are fused into the door trim plastic. So, it will probably fit... but installing it will be insanely difficult. Those speakers might work in the trunk lid, though. I Haven’t figured out how to get to those yet.

The rear door speakers are fused into the door trim plastic. So, it will probably fit... but installing it will be insanely difficult. Those speakers might work in the trunk lid, though. I Haven’t figured out how to get to those yet.

So you'd have to cut them out and then probably 3D print some kind of custom bracket for it. That's a boatload of work and a lot of uncertainty about where you're going to end up. Including a decent possibility that the whole thing will just fail in terms of its structural viability. Bummer. I'll have to see how Brave I feel when I get the rear door off on the Florida car next week

 

[Glamisduner]

So you'd have to cut them out and then probably 3D print some kind of custom bracket for it. That's a boatload of work and a lot of uncertainty about where you're going to end up. Including a decent possibility that the whole thing will just fail in terms of its structural viability. Bummer. I'll have to see how Brave I feel when I get the rear door off on the Florida car next week

Make a bracket out of MDF?

I don't think I will be ripping out the interior of my model 3 for a complete deadening install, I just don't want to add the weight. But I wouldn't mind targeting a few areas when you guys figure out which locations make the biggest difference. Also curious how you all are going to tap into the wiring to your LOC? Also will you be replacing the factory wiring to the speakers?

I'd just like to start with upgrading the Sub myself, and maybe get more power to the factory speakers to see how they sound with some more power?

 

[gilscales]

Does anybody with experience in disassembling the Model 3 rear door think that this speaker from Morel would potentially fit? it's expensive at $145 a pop ($290 for a pair) but it's close in impedance to the stock driver, not too deep and clearly way more full range/high quality and reasonably sensitive at 89 db.

They noted in the video that the driver is sonically welded to the door panel, is 3.5", 3 ohms and rated at 33w power handling, the Morel while an excellent driver is actually 2 drivers in a co-ax format without a x-over installed, this thing has a 28mm tweeter which IMO if you were to overcome all the other obstacles (a large feat for sure) this drivers high end is probably not a good match for rear doors

 

[dfwatt]

They noted in the video that the driver is sonically welded to the door panel, is 3.5", 3 ohms and rated at 33w power handling, the Morel while an excellent driver is actually 2 drivers in a co-ax format without a x-over installed, this thing has a 28mm tweeter which IMO if you were to overcome all the other obstacles (a large feat for sure) this drivers high end is probably not a good match for rear doors

Agreed on the likely difficulty of getting this thing to actually fit in the door in any secure fashion. However I'm not sure why you regard having a tweeter in the backseat as bad idea? The driver back there is a full range speaker so it's certainly putting out some treble and you would probably alter the balance of the system if you only put a low or mid-range driver, instead of a full range driver

 

[Dariushd]

Those are not flat, not even close. Nor would you ever want it to be flat.
The bass is high and the highs are low and you just tilted it further in the wrong direction.

got my eye on this page at the moment... hoping wishing waiting

https://www.badesignworks.com/model-3

Seems like a great option! I upgraded my stock BMW audio with a BavSound kit and the difference was absolutely amazing, so I'm curious to see how these will improve on Tesla's premium sound system in the m3.
However, I read that the door panel retention clips are single use so self-installation may be tricky or impossible without these clips: "So, if you upgrade your speakers or take the door panels off for anything, be aware. Service tech told me that the pressure is so snug on the doors that even the slight degradation from removing them makes the clips unstable."

Speaker upgrade- word to the wise | Tesla

 

[mswlogo]

Seems like a great option! I upgraded my stock BMW audio with a BavSound kit and the difference was absolutely amazing, so I'm curious to see how these will improve on Tesla's premium sound system in the m3.
However, I read that the door panel retention clips are single use so self-installation may be tricky or impossible without these clips: "So, if you upgrade your speakers or take the door panels off for anything, be aware. Service tech told me that the pressure is so snug on the doors that even the slight degradation from removing them makes the clips unstable."

Speaker upgrade- word to the wise | Tesla

That's good to know on the clips. Makes sense.
That upgrade site looks pretty nice. But if there were any more bass (which of course isn't everything) in the car I think it would start falling apart.

 

[dfwatt]

That's good to know on the clips. Makes sense.
That upgrade site looks pretty nice. But if there were any more bass (which of course isn't everything) in the car I think it would start falling apart.

Agreed that it does not need any more Bass. But it could benefit from extensive Dynamatting to reduce panel resonances and make the bass that is there in abundance tighter and less muddy. I've heard about the clip issue so I'm going to go pick up 50 or so of those things at the local Tesla dealership

 

[gilscales]

Agreed on the likely difficulty of getting this thing to actually fit in the door in any secure fashion. However I'm not sure why you regard having a tweeter in the backseat as bad idea? The driver back there is a full range speaker so it's certainly putting out some treble and you would probably alter the balance of the system if you only put a low or mid-range driver, instead of a full range driver

I did not say having a tweeter is a bad idea, I said having this driver with its 28mm tweeter is probably a bad match and what I meant is that the tweeter in this set up is WAY overkill and likely would have to be turned down in the x-over to much in order to balance the overall tone as the existing driver is a single cone full range unit that likely rolls off aggressively above 7k to 8k hz and low wattage so more of a fill speaker than a main, badesignworks.com did in fact mention that because of the way the driver was mounted to the door panel they probably are not going to include it in a kit.

I might be inclined to try a single cone full range driver with a high total Q and wider dispersion like
"Wavecor WF090WA01 3-1/2" Paper Cone Mid-Woofer 4 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!
or
"Peerless by Tymphany TC9FD00-04 3-1/2" Full-Range Line Array Driver 4 Ohm" from www.parts-express.com!

 

[gilscales]

More interesting 3.5" possible full range door drivers

this one has a nice off axis response, don't see the power handling though?
Vifa TG9FD10-04 3.5" Full Range

Maybe this? Total Q is a little low for a door speaker but chart looks good
Aurasound NS3-193-4A1 3" Extended Range, Black Cone, * 4 ohm *

If you want to stick with a coaxial set up in a 3.5" then you will be looking at traditional car stereo speaker manufacturers like
Hertz DCX 87.3

Here is a true 3ohm offering that will not limit the power like the 4ohm speakers would and they are very efficient as well
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B...1&tag=stereochamp1-20&linkId=MX7Y46TNTR2EYE7D


Best rated 3ohm 3.5" coax
https://www.amazon.com/Infinity-REF...=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B01E4JWG6I

 

[flashflooder]

I used Infinity Reference 4" speakers in the dash, and the fit was perfect. Since the rear doors and trunk lid are the exact same speaker, I'd expect you need 4" in those locations, as well.

 

[flashflooder]

That's good to know on the clips. Makes sense.
That upgrade site looks pretty nice. But if there were any more bass (which of course isn't everything) in the car I think it would start falling apart.

Believe me when i say that the car can handle a LOT more bass. I've currently got 300W going to a sealed 10" Focal Performance sub in the trunk... I've got a single rattle in the headliner at a specific frequency, but it sounds great other than that.

 

[gilscales]

I used Infinity Reference 4" speakers in the dash, and the fit was perfect. Since the rear doors and trunk lid are the exact same speaker, I'd expect you need 4" in those locations, as well.

Just ran across your thread Details / Specs on PUP audio system looking forward to hear more about the changes