Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

AWD tire rotation.

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
This can also be solved by going around corners faster. :p The camber isn't adjustable either front or back. The toe being off would also cause inside tire wear.

If the wear is even then there is no reason to rotate the tires. Many people like to have them rotated anyway though. You can get a tire depth gauge for a few bucks to see how evenly they are wearing and weigh the cost/inconvenience of getting them rotated versus how much sooner you will have to replace them if you don't.

It was the toe. Tesla corrected the alignment and the wear is now even. Getting ready to put new tires on it for our trip to Custer, SD this week.
 
The Littleton Colorado SC is quoting me $100 to rotate! I can't see how that makes financial sense to do, ignoring the fact they are 45-60 min drive.

I don't expect the $20 that Firestone might charge me, but seems $40-45 might be more reasonable.
 
Yeah, I suspect my toe is off on the front passenger because the inside is worn a lot more. :/ ((definitely not a issue with cornering too slow :p ))

--- ----

OP:

I rotated my Model 3 tires myself. The tricky part with it is you've got no spare tire so you need either two jacks, one of those snazzy jack point systems(Rennstand & Jackpoint are two I'm aware of, they run about $300 for a set of two), or another set of tires you can borrow a tire out of. The reason is there are only 4 safe points on the vehicle, one each corner, so you can't jack up and then block it on a different point on that corner.

I did the later, using a 5th tire from another set, and used a jack pad to make sure things weren't going to wander around. I have Murphy's Law ($35 IIRC) but Reverse Logic also sells one for about the same price. Straight forward, it took me about an hour. Although I also have a torque wrench, so I know I tightened to spec (129ft-lb). Oh, and your floor jack need to be able to go fairly low. I think 4.5" at a minimum? My drops to 3.5" and with the pad I think I've got about 1" clearance.

I rotated at 7500 miles and happy I did because inside of the front passenger was wearing ahead of the rest. Normal AWD rotation is swapping the front left to rear right, front right to rear left (different than RWD rotation) so I just did that. I don't know if there is something more suitable for Teslas? I'll probably ask the Ranger when he comes out this week what Tesla normally does.

I also have one tire that's showing some over-inflation wear. Not sure why as my TPMS have been showing everything even. I think I'm going to start using a discrete pressure gauge to verify my TPMS are on point.


EDIT: Oh, and learn from my mistakes. It is VERY easy to forget those jack pads under the vehicle on the last tire. :oops: Then it falls off the first really hard corner you take. Ummm, yeah, mine's a bit scuffed now. :rolleyes:
Yeah, lifting the car in your garage is a serious issue. I was thinking about bolting some angle iron to the sides of a 2x4 and using it as a bootleg Rennstand type thing.

When I swapped brake pads, I just didn't use a jack stand. Car was resting on Harbor Freight's finest hydraulics. A bit nerve-wracking.
 
Yeah, lifting the car in your garage is a serious issue. I was thinking about bolting some angle iron to the sides of a 2x4 and using it as a bootleg Rennstand type thing.

When I swapped brake pads, I just didn't use a jack stand. Car was resting on Harbor Freight's finest hydraulics. A bit nerve-wracking.

For extra safety precaution, I always slide a wheel underneath the battery rail between the two jack points, or under the motor unit. The jack or jack stands catastrophically fails the wheel will catch the weight of the car instead of my body.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jyalpert and DR61
For extra safety precaution, I always slide a wheel underneath the battery rail between the two jack points, or under the motor unit. The jack or jack stands catastrophically fails the wheel will catch the weight of the car instead of my body.
That's definitely good practice. I didn't put anything else under there because the entire underbody is just a flat plate and I had no idea what areas are load bearing vs. not.

Is the battery rail load-bearing? If so, seems like you could use it as a point (or two) for a jackstand, so long as you spread the load with some wood or something.
 
That's definitely good practice. I didn't put anything else under there because the entire underbody is just a flat plate and I had no idea what areas are load bearing vs. not.

Is the battery rail load-bearing? If so, seems like you could use it as a point (or two) for a jackstand, so long as you spread the load with some wood or something.

Internally there is no reinforcement around the four jack point on the battery rail. Externally there are reenforce jack points to spread the load into a larger area. Use a 2x4 to spread the load is a possibility and is something I have done with my previous ICE cars. So far, I have been fine with just jacking up one side of the car from one jack point. I use the wheel under the rail or motor as a safety measure. I can see this discussion turn into something else, so I will stop now.

Images of Model 3 battery pack.
tesla model 3 teardown the battery pack - Google Search
 
Yeah, lifting the car in your garage is a serious issue. I was thinking about bolting some angle iron to the sides of a 2x4 and using it as a bootleg Rennstand type thing.

I have a nice low profile hydraulic jack and rotation is actually not a big deal if the floor is flat (chock wheels anyway). Lifting from the rear location lifts the entire side of the car, I've done it 2x now as well as other minor stuff on the car.

I will admit I do not put additional jacks under the car while working and normally I would but I trust this jack and never get under the car

jack.jpeg
 

Attachments

  • jack.jpeg
    jack.jpeg
    513 KB · Views: 61
For those curious. That first set of tires I only rotated that one time and they made it to 45k miles. I’m about a third of the way through my second set. I have opted to rotate 3 times over the life of the tires this time, allowing all 4 tires a chance at each spot. The inside of the front tires wear ever so slightly faster than everywhere else on my car. I recommend people either rotate 1 time or 3 times over the life of the tires
 
  • Disagree
Reactions: lUtriaNt