Be careful the beep alert when close to something does not always work how you think it would

[LyftupX]

Kind of bummed, tight streets in Seattle sometimes we get in jams and squeeze by opposing cars. Done this 1k times no issues I made it through halfway never heard an alert in the car when I corrected over back half hit the parked car on the road.

Very minimal damage to parked car... a scratch or 2 on the plastic front panel, me not so lucky. Caved in read panel little dent on the pax rear door... holding my breath hoping it can be fixed without huge undertaking or total replacement.

I know the beeping is not a replacement for judgement but the damn thing beeps every time I pull out of the garage and other tight spots , when I needed it nothing. I would have stopped or been more careful had the warning come on. End of the day my fault I should have waited further back or drive forward vs the oncoming car.

Folks also any dent or push these things dent and collapse very easily. All good no one hurt , just cosmetic. If anyone has experience let me know how this looks replacement wise.

 

[LyftupX]

Also can anyone tell me how the using approved vs non approved shops works?
I was going to sell this car in a year or so... I knew the financial hit was going to be big... this accident on the report may add a few $ thousand off.... what can you do... the hit is the hit.....$$

 

[brkaus]

The sensors are behind the wheels. The area between the wheels (where doors are) is not covered by ultrasonic sensors. I think most cars are like this - but this is my first car with any sort of sensor.

 

[LyftupX]

The sensors are behind the wheels. The area between the wheels (where doors are) is not covered by ultrasonic sensors. I think most cars are like this - but this is my first car with any sort of sensor.

Yeah I figured that after the fact... must have cleared it just fine but my correction over is what screwed me. When I was driving after the fact I drove close to some walls and cars and again the sensor sounds don’t do a great job other than parking ... just a warning that’s all .

 

[YusufT]

Also after a certain speed it won’t beep at you

 

[brkaus]

Re: approved vs unapproved shops. Unapproved shops are not able to get all parts.

I’m not sure what parts you will need. Or what those panels are made out of. The rear quarter is a pain to remove on the S (I have a similar dent), but I’m not sure about the 3.

 

[Dolemite]

I have not and will not ever trust anything this car tells me, period.

Hate to say it but your damage requires a visit to the body shop. There's no such thing as "replacement" there - that panel is integral to the chassis & it'll take some artwork to get it back to perfect - which any competent body shop could do, "Tesla approved" or not.

The door ding should be able to be PDRd. Rough guess, you're probably looking at about $1K in damage?

 

[MP3Mike]

Yeah, that is probably $6k or more to repair because of the rear quarter panel...

 

[LyftupX]

yeah I am thinking $5k easy, I left my number for the other car he may be at $500 who knows. I already started the insurance process , we will see how it turns out. I can drive the car just fine, will post results.

 

[TLLMRRJ]

If you’re private selling, showing pics and video of the damage from all angles will put potential buyers at ease that it was just cosmetic and not structural.

 

[ynotev]

@LyftupCheck with Tesla body repair shop. They have one in Bellevue. I have had a similar damage repaired by them for just over $1K.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

yeah I am thinking $5k easy, I left my number for the other car he may be at $500 who knows. I already started the insurance process , we will see how it turns out. I can drive the car just fine, will post results.

I'd check with a PDR specialist just to see what they can do. There is very likely to be paint damage (cracking and chipping) on that rear quarter panel, even if they can get rid of the dent above the wheel. Still, worth a check just to see. If the PDR can somehow resolve all the panel damage it might be preferable to just repaint professionally after that, that rather than them having to cut and weld and blend in a new piece of quarter panel or whatever they would have to do.

I honestly have no idea whether PDR is actually possible - just thinking the access might be there since it's just above the wheel well (I haven't pulled out the wheel well liner to see how far up the cavity goes...). The door access might actually be more of a problem...

Something to just check on, no guarantees. The PDR can basically be perfect (if access is not a problem), but the paint will require work. Do a Yelp search for the highest rated local specialist.

Otherwise, definitely looking at $5k+. Just a ton of labor to cut, weld, bondo, sand and paint.

If you're not planning on keeping the car long-term, and the paint damage is not too bad, you might be able to cut corners on that repair too (to prevent rusting) - but it likely won't last, of course.

 

[LyftupX]

@LyftupCheck with Tesla body repair shop. They have one in Bellevue. I have had a similar damage repaired by them for just over $1K.

Will do....

Just had a flash to go check my dash cam footage of the accident so I could see how much of a poor move I made. Sadly I didn’t hit the button so by now it’s overwritten.... that sinking feeling I forgot all about the dash cam. Remember it’s there folks.

 

[LyftupX]

I'd check with a PDR specialist just to see what they can do. There is very likely to be paint damage (cracking and chipping) on that rear quarter panel, even if they can get rid of the dent above the wheel. Still, worth a check just to see. If the PDR can somehow resolve all the panel damage it might be preferable to just repaint professionally after that, that rather than them having to cut and weld and blend in a new piece of quarter panel or whatever they would have to do.

I honestly have no idea whether PDR is actually possible - just thinking the access might be there since it's just above the wheel well (I haven't pulled out the wheel well liner to see how far up the cavity goes...). The door access might actually be more of a problem...

Something to just check on, no guarantees. The PDR can basically be perfect (if access is not a problem), but the paint will require work. Do a Yelp search for the highest rated local specialist.

Otherwise, definitely looking at $5k+. Just a ton of labor to cut, weld, bondo, sand and paint.

If you're not planning on keeping the car long-term, and the paint damage is not too bad, you might be able to cut corners on that repair too (to prevent rusting) - but it likely won't last, of course.

I’ve seen a few Tesla accident repair videos so far it looks like that can be fixed (not cutting out and welding new piece) I must have been going 5 mph .... smash all that from the plastic bumper of a Jeep... crazy

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

so far it looks like that can be fixed (not cutting out and welding new piece)

Yeah, I would definitely make sure to pursue that option regardless, and avoid fill if possible. The difference, presumably, is that a PDR specialist would make it perfect, while a body shop would hammer it out to make it close, fill, and then sand.

 

[RC2785]

Hopefully they can just pull the dent and buff it without having to replace the entire panel or else it would get pretty expensive.

Edit: wait, is the door also damaged? If so then things will get a little more tricky since the doors are made of aluminum.

 

[AlanSubie4Life]

little more tricky since the doors are made of aluminum

If access is not a problem, the door is no problem at all for PDR. Aluminum is no big deal for someone who is familiar with it. Though there appears to be some material transfer on the lower door body line (can't tell) so hard to know if that will just wipe off.

 

[Tron 3]

Depending on access that may be able to "pop" out for the most part. There will be some paint repair. I have been able to pop a dent like that from the backside and it was near perfect with the exception of a small wrinkle where the metal had been stretched. A couple of taps with a body dolly and a hammer fixed that. Bodywork is not too difficult, but very time-consuming. I speak from experience.

The car the M3 replaced is a '66 Mustang coupe that I had poured love and treasure into for 20 years. Another Human ran a stop and T boned the right rear quarter. No way to "pop" that.

This was the result...

With this in the middle...

So the $5,000 that his insurance paid replaced the quarter panel, painted the entire car, and gave me a completely new interior - because I bled instead of paying a shop to do it.

I would spend some time checking out access to the backside of that and proceed according to your ability. You've never done anything like this? Neither had I until the first time. If it's done by Humans, you belong to that club. Of course, if you make enough money, your time is better spent doing that.

 

[brkaus]

Yeah, I would definitely make sure to pursue that option regardless, and avoid fill if possible. The difference, presumably, is that a PDR specialist would make it perfect, while a body shop would hammer it out to make it close, fill, and then sand.

This ^^

From experience.

 

[Dolemite]

I had pretty much identical damage to a VW I used to own. PDR was a no-go - trip to the body shop it was. They just hammered it out, filled it, sanded it, came out perfect. It was ~$750 ~8 years ago.